[andy popp]

Congrats on the promotion Andy! Another busy week is upon me as final week in job before starting new job next Monday = lots to do.

Thanks! And to you for the new job. Good luck with it, this week and next.

[andy popp]

Sun - Early start. Soloed Ampitheatre Buttress, Direct Route on Milestone Buttress (going right at the bi-valve and skipping the chimney as someone was in it), Grooved Arete, before traversing over to Idwal -starting up Ordinary Route to avoid some damp and finishing up Charity from the step over.

Sunday was a blast!  Busy rolling the legs this morning, they're pretty tight. Days like this are what I used to do when I was a scrambler but often I'd back off the crux moves, so it was nice to be able to just spend the day in my own little bubble, enjoying the movement and enjoying the scenery. Padding up the top of Charity to meet Sean, who'd just gone up Faith - I was really happy. August has been a blast! Salbit Sudgrat, then this. Yep. Happy.

I used to love those sorts of days; probably the best I've every had in the mountains.

[kelvin]

I used to love those sorts of days; probably the best I've every had in the mountains.

They'd become a bit of a used to' for me also. It wasn't until I did that few hours coaching with John Kettle back in February and we were chatting about climbing motivation, that I realised I'd almost stopped doing the very thing I started climbing to do - big, easy days in the mountains.
All the training and injuries were worth it on Sunday 

[Muenchener]

I used to love those sorts of days; probably the best I've every had in the mountains.

They'd become a bit of a used to' for me also. It wasn't until I did that few hours coaching with John Kettle back in February and we were chatting about climbing motivation, that I realised I'd almost stopped doing the very thing I started climbing to do - big, easy days in the mountains.
All the training and injuries were worth it on Sunday 

+1

It's easy to get lost in always wanting to try something hard, especially if one has limited time, but the Cuillin Ridge is still - thirty years on - one of the best days I've ever had.

Another really good outing once upon a time was Tryfan / Glyder Fawr / down to Pen y Pass / some big link up on Lliwedd, solo. Snowdonia lends itself to that sort of thing.

[SA Chris]

Snowdonia does, especially with the short approaches. Most places in Scotland the walk in is the crux for me!

[kelvin]

MTG: 8c in Margalef

feel in pretty reasonable condition but want to push on for Margalef,

You still planning on being there at the start of November? We're taking a slow drive down through Font and the Ariege in Oct but should be there by the turn of the month.

[mr chaz]

LTG 8A 8b

M. Wall. Went to Redpoint for a change. Most of the time spent on the long steep overhang, doing laps on 7a+ and 7a.
T. Wall. BBC. Best session for weeks. Max hangs routine. Antagonist workout. Pressups.
W.
T.
F.
S. DWS Exeter. Drove down early Sat morning. What a brilliant event! So glad Ellie talked me into going. Watched her cruise through qualifiers in the morning. I was on at 5ish. Disappointed to have slipped off the 2nd route high up, totally unexpected, thought I was home and dry! Would've been enough to get into the semis, ah well. Bit of food and drink in the evening and spending time with old and new friends, happy.
S. DWS Exeter. Incredible performance from Rymer, cheered her on all the way. Shame about the bit of rain but it eventually cleared up and turned into a fine afternoon. Great display of bat hang technique from McClure and Gresham during semis. Drove home in the evening after prize giving.

Overall a good week and a brilliant weekend in Exeter. Slightly disappointed with my own performance but totally inspired by others. No sign of any  for me either. Feeling lean and strong at the moment.

[petejh]

STG: Re-hab bicep tendon, pain-free 5Kg dumbell curl, E5 slabs.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)



M. Dumbell curls with 2.5Kg, minor discomfort.
T. Curls with 2.5Kg, v.floss.
W. Slate. 2 x E2/3 slabs, 1 x E4 wall, 1 x E4 slab on 3rd attempt (v.hard crux, 6b?). Curls 2.5Kg, v.floss.
T. Slate. 1 x E2 slab, 1 x E3 slab. Curls, v.floss.
F. Curls 2.5Kg, v.floss.
S. Penmaenbach Quarry. 1 x E5 slab, brilliant route.
S. Penmaenbach Quarry. Working moves on 8a slab. Feels like multiple 6c moves and possibly a 7a move. Maybe a hold's come off, harder than the slate 8as I've been on.
M. Slate. 2 x slabby 6a+s, 1 x E2/3 slab, 2 x E4 slabs.


Starting to really enjoy the slate slab climbing and it's just enjoyable going out bumbling in cool places, psyched to tick some more E4s and 5s this week if I can get partners.

[ashtond6]

Snowdonia does, especially with the short approaches. Most places in Scotland the walk in is the crux for me!

Anyone know of any good linkups in the Llanberis pass? All seems abit more spaced out!

[tomtom]

Th: Woodwell. Spend 2 hours trying to do TBOBN and failed :D soooooo close sooooo many times. Daft problem, but great...

Just back from Woodwell.. nailed it First 7B+ of the year...

I had thought my summers work at Woodwell was done - then started playing on Not Bad Dave....

[andy popp]

Good work Tom!

[tomtom]

Good work Tom!

Thanks - the session was bought to a close by a pretty mental thunderstorm - after nearly splitting my head open tumbling down the hill from A Rigpa bailout!

[andy popp]

Snowdonia does, especially with the short approaches. Most places in Scotland the walk in is the crux for me!

Anyone know of any good linkups in the Llanberis pass? All seems abit more spaced out!

I don't think it works very well if you stay in the Pass. However, I once did a route on Cyrn Las, went to the top of ridge and dropped down to Cloggy, did a route on the West, then from the top of that went up and down over the other side to do a route on Llechog, walking back to Llanberis village from there (you can skirt back round to the base of Cloggy without going back over the top making the walk back fairly flat).

That worked beautifully and delivered a really great day out.

[nik at work]

You still planning on being there at the start of November? We're taking a slow drive down through Font and the Ariege in Oct but should be there by the turn of the month.

Indeed, arrive Sunday 1st and am there for a week. Would be cool to meet up if you're in the area.

[fatneck]

First 7B+ of the year...

Effort crusher!!

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board repeated a few things.
Wed. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Thu. Board trying a problem just outside edge flagging, rather than its usual egyptian. Do it with a slight dab, never got that close before. On its mirror image hit the hold several times but not the swing. Do 2 projects first go, the grease of something and twang my shoulder/bicep.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Wainstones. Do You've pulled 7a very basic, once you get lift off you do it. Walk across to Cold Moor, very hard to walk along underneath the crag due to head high bracken, the problems we went to look at seemed very dirty and need more mats than the 2 we had. Back to Wainstones do various things on the A boulder, including the sit starts to the crack and the arete on its right. Graded 6a+ and 6b felt as hard as the 7a we did earlier.
Shoulder sore on the way home, struggled to use 5th gear on the drive home.
Sun. Nothing.   

[the_dom]

Mon: Weights (Deadlifts - up to 6 x 2 x 150kgs), bouldering and hangboard
Tues: Treadmill intervals - 20 mins
Wed: Bouldering and hangboard
Thurs: Kettlebells - 10 x (4 TGUs and 25 swings)
Fri:Rest day. Drive to Rocklands.
Sat:Rocklands. Almost do the 7C du jour, Stalker on the Horizon, in a session, trying it the 8A way. Fall off the end, after the fall offable bit, and run out of time. Dammit. Torched for the rest of the day. Torched.
Sun: Deadlifts and kettlebell swings. Tired.

Lots of training at the moment. Feel like I will need to dial it back a little at some point. 

I have new goals now:
STG: 7C in a session
MTG: 8A and multiple 7Cs in my 5 day trip to Cresciano in December.

[shurt]

goals some as normal.

m. think i did 10 pu's here or on tuesday.
t.
w. went to the wall (bloc). it was pretty good although got tired quite quickly. flashed some good probs. enjoyed myself. pints after 
t.
f.
s. the
s. bank
m. holiday avec la famille. nice actually.

went to Berry Head finally last night fell in at around 8pm and was on the way to hypothermia before I got back to my kit!

[SA Chris]

What did you do / not do?

[shurt]

 I did do Cavewoman in and out again which was great. I didn't do Rainbow Bridge falling off the crux then swimming out, it was a fair old swim in the cold!

[Duma]

What's cavewoman in and out? I hope it doesn't mean you avoided the chimney up to the light!

[shurt]

 Fraid so. You reverse the traverse a bit then move up and over the lip of the cave and traverse back to the big ledge if that makes sense. I depumped for a while on the chockstone before climbing back out - its no warm up (for me). I was put off the chimney by who I was climbing with. Is it good? It looked sharp!