IFSC 2016 (Read 157255 times)

Teaboy · July 23, 2016, 10:22:00 pm

The thing is if the comms aren't going to comment on the different sequences etc what are they supposed to talk about? It's not like he's giving background of the climbers and doesn't seem to know where people are up to (he was saying he wasn't sure whether one of the climbers was in provisional second or not when she fell three holds below the provisional third placed climber). All that might sound a bit harsh and it is a minor gripe as the coverage was excellent but it just like footy commentary of a few years ago where pundits added nothing, just a few platitudes and vague observations.

Teaboy · July 23, 2016, 10:24:12 pm

Quote from: finbarrr on July 23, 2016, 10:18:49 pm

I find him really friendly.
But... Can you imagine a football commentator who is really friendly but can not remember the score, or who scored, let alone how anyone scored?

Now you mention it having Chris Kamara as commentator might liven things up!

cjsheps · July 23, 2016, 10:30:20 pm

Quote from: finbarrr on July 23, 2016, 10:18:49 pm

I find him really friendly.
But... Can you imagine a football commentator who is really friendly but can not remember the score, or who scored, let alone how anyone scored?

This would be AMAZING.

jwi · July 24, 2016, 05:48:43 pm

Quote from: cjsheps on July 23, 2016, 07:44:43 pm

It's crazy that Kasja just came off so low, having onsighted 8c earlier this year. The level is so high in the girls' final!

She was really nervous (her 2nd senior comp). I met her after the semis and she was hoping for the final to be canceled due to rain...

GraemeA · July 25, 2016, 12:06:51 pm

Quote from: cjsheps on July 23, 2016, 09:58:42 pm

(I assume voluntarily)

Surely this should be in 'Only Joking'

Grubes · July 25, 2016, 12:21:52 pm

Quote from: cjsheps on July 23, 2016, 10:30:20 pm

Quote from: finbarrr on July 23, 2016, 10:18:49 pm
I find him really friendly.
But... Can you imagine a football commentator who is really friendly but can not remember the score, or who scored, let alone how anyone scored?

This would be AMAZING.

finbarrr · July 25, 2016, 12:58:25 pm

Haha, that's exactly it

finbarrr · July 25, 2016, 12:59:10 pm

Except at the ifsc no one is laughing

GraemeA · August 15, 2016, 01:44:57 pm

Streaming didn't work due to a dodgy connection, I think there will have been some angry words this morning once the service provider got to work. Finals now up. Worth fast forwarding to 1 hr 53 to see Manu Cornu on P4. Funny as fuck.

Duma · September 15, 2016, 07:43:11 am

So much for Dmitrii peaking for the World Champs then :-( And what happened to Jan this year? Can't hack it without his gf?

Fiend · September 19, 2016, 11:16:29 am

Excellent final....just watch the whole thing. Amazing.

gme · September 19, 2016, 12:42:06 pm

I watched this last night. 1st time i have seen a lead comp for years other than the occasional glimpse. Thought it was brilliant and Ondra was in a league of his own.

Does anyone know how the points work out for the combined. Ondra got a 1st and 2nd so if he had turned up at the speed, fall off the 1st move and coming last would he have had enough points to beat McColl.

Sounds like the IFSC/IOC are not going to move from the combined thing for the Olympics so pretty sure if the top boys want to join in they are going to have to do speed.

Footwork · September 19, 2016, 01:09:00 pm

I watched the blind climbing. All I can say is

jwi · September 19, 2016, 06:36:37 pm

Superb route setting in the men's final by Adam Pustelnik (8c+ allegedly). Another highlight was Petra Klinger's ascent of women's final boulder

galpinos · September 20, 2016, 10:50:46 am

Barrans was 7th in the combined, could have been higher if he'd done a little better at the speed.

ghisino · September 20, 2016, 11:17:10 am

Quote from: gme on September 19, 2016, 12:42:06 pm

Does anyone know how the points work out for the combined. Ondra got a 1st and 2nd so if he had turned up at the speed, fall off the 1st move and coming last would he have had enough points to beat McColl.

no.

it works like this:

1) the athletes who do the combined are ranked within each discipline (eg manu cornu was 1st of the boulder, mccoll 2nd, etc)
2) the sum of the 3 disciplines ranks makes the combined ranking.

this means that a competitor being quite good at all 3 has a lot more chances than one being dominant at 2 disciplines and bad at one.

example: mccoll was 2B,4S,1L. total=7. he won the combined. Manu was 1B,1S,8L. Total=10. Silver. A theoretical competitor being second at each discipline would have beaten the two of them.

and for instance, somebody being 10th at each discipline would rank better than one winning two of them and being 30th at the other one...

it could work a bit more as you said with a score system (1st=100 ponts, 2nd=80 etc). That would leave the door open to someone being strongest at lead and boulder, and total shit at speed. I honestly don't see the french federation pushing in this direction...dunno for the rest of the world.

Clart · September 20, 2016, 08:02:26 pm

It should work like this: Combine the results from the lead and bouldering comps and ignore the speed comp as it's an insult to the other 2.

ghisino · September 21, 2016, 01:00:02 am

Quote from: Clart on September 20, 2016, 08:02:26 pm

It should work like this: Combine the results from the lead and bouldering comps and ignore the speed comp as it's an insult to the other 2.

i have many things against speed.

the only time i tried a speed wall i was ridiculous, i think some top speed climbers look more like communist-era weightlifters than climbers, i don't like the route staying the same for a long time, i don't like time being used to split ties in lead etc...

BUT i like the idea of a speed event making a small difference in a combined format. imho they should twist the thing so that the best bet to get a medal would be to get really strong at two disciplines and barely decent at the third, rather than "average" at all three.

Duma · September 24, 2016, 02:41:00 pm

Leah has made finals at rockstars. Think they're live somewhere but on train.

lagerstarfish · September 24, 2016, 02:43:14 pm

http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/en/live/

from 7.15pm BST

(according to Shauna)

I don't know what Adidas think they are doing; I didn't even get asked to compete

tomtom · September 24, 2016, 02:54:06 pm

Quote from: lagerstarfish on September 24, 2016, 02:43:14 pm

http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/en/live/

from 7.15pm BST

(according to Shauna)

I don't know what Adidas think they are doing; I didn't even get asked to compete

Your prior Nike sponsorship ruled you out...

Oldmanmatt · September 24, 2016, 04:26:42 pm

Quote from: lagerstarfish on September 24, 2016, 02:43:14 pm

http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/en/live/

from 7.15pm BST

(according to Shauna)

I don't know what Adidas think they are doing; I didn't even get asked to compete

Really?
They wouldn't leave me alone, even after I explained I was washing my hair tonight.

All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.

lagerstarfish · September 24, 2016, 09:02:42 pm

just watched Janja on B2 -

quite enjoying Shauna's commentary

benno · September 24, 2016, 09:11:36 pm

Yeah, that was crazy. It looked like she killed the swing before she even bothered taking the undercut

lagerstarfish · September 24, 2016, 09:13:25 pm

I was expecting her to chuck a fist jam into that big hole/pocket - she didn't need it