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IFSC 2016 (Read 157579 times)

Duma

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#500 Re: IFSC 2016
June 11, 2016, 07:08:30 pm
That was close!

fried

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#501 Re: IFSC 2016
June 11, 2016, 07:13:02 pm
Tactics, finish in 6th,get the upside-down result. Worked last time.

Duma

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#502 Re: IFSC 2016
June 11, 2016, 11:34:27 pm
Live now



think I read if she finishes 3rd or better she's won the overall, or if Miho finishes lower than 2nd

Duma

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#503 Re: IFSC 2016
June 12, 2016, 01:08:54 am
Bit amateur of Shauna on W4, could cost her the win if Megan doesn't top it.

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#504 Re: IFSC 2016
June 12, 2016, 01:32:04 am
Bit amateur of Shauna on W4, could cost her the win if Megan doesn't top it.

Oh well, doesn't change the overall.

Shame about Men's 4, looked incredible...didn't seem to climb very well.
Conditions must have changed a lot since it was set.

G'Night all!  :yawn:

Duma

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#505 Re: IFSC 2016
June 12, 2016, 01:50:23 am
Yeah didn't make any difference since Megan was pretty untouchable, And with Miho not performing Shauna's wrapped up the overall.

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#506 Re: IFSC 2016
June 12, 2016, 08:53:53 am
There's just one round left; Munich? Good work Shauna MBE.

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk


Duma

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#507 Re: IFSC 2016
June 12, 2016, 10:22:41 pm
So not much comment apart from Shaunambe then?

Thought Puccio appeared to suffer, not sure if it was a shoulder injury? odd as W4 looked like it'd be right up her street and she made no impression on it. Good to see Anna's not a spent force.

Bit gutted Rubtsov didn't nick it at the end, looks to be just between Tomoa and Kokoro now. Loved Shaun's beta at the start of M3, shame he didn't quite seal the deal.

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#508 Re: IFSC 2016
June 12, 2016, 10:35:50 pm
Just watched Rustam on M3 in the final from about 1:25 to 1:29. More or less continuously. Magnificent thrutching skills.

Who is the co-commentator? SBC again? Doing a good job imo whoever it is.

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#509 Re: IFSC 2016
June 12, 2016, 11:54:29 pm
Who is the co-commentator? SBC again? Doing a good job imo whoever it is.

No, another American lass. Climbed well in the semis.

Good comp. Problems mostly good to watch. The dyno to a footless quarryman press was a cool move.

The Japanese team has been incredible this year.

Shame Alexey didn't top the slab - he was the only bloke who got close.

Lots of talk about the field heating up next year with Megan doing the circuit, Janja coming through and so on. I heard elsewhere that Ashima is 16 next year, so finally old enough to compete. That would be good to see...

As they mentioned in the commentary, it will be interesting to hear if anything hard gets done in RMNP with lots of climbers staying on for a while...


butters

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#510 Re: IFSC 2016
June 13, 2016, 01:22:19 am
Watched the back end of the semis. Once I had got my head around the merrily rotating carousel that was semi qualifying it was brilliant. Pooch was looking beastly strong - she really made the problems look easy.  Shauna blitzing W4 as well to qualify was just great - total heart in mouth uttering allez's at the monitor while she was on it. That was the semis for me and the short time I was watching it. 

As for the finals:

Mens - just great action - the guy desperately trying to match the final hold on one of the early problems (either M1 or M2 - can't remember but he was the only one to get close to it) was almost heartbreaking. M3 was even better - Rustam (if he is the one that I am thinking of) had no right to do the problem the way he did it which can only be described as a bloody brilliant whilst equally outrageous solution to that problem but however you did the problem it was a potentially massive shutdown at the end. I must admit to a few vicarious thoughts at the end of that one. M4? That was a bit of a harsh one but - conditions? They mentioned them in the commentary I think but not sure.

Womens - Disappointed to see Pooch carrying - what was  to my punter eyes anyway - a shoulder injury in the finals. As mentioned earlier she was looking strong but in the final she was getting shut down with problems I would assume she would do easily. Shauna looked really relaxed and looked to be climbing well but Megan was in another class - four problems in five attempts tells it's own story. Don't remember he problems as well - they seemed to get done reasonably quickly and the it was over to the men to see them suffer. W3 I would have liked to see a bit more as it was the one problem that seemed to present a real issue on the Women' circuit (unless your name is Megan) but it was against  the M3 problem which was the problem of the finals.

Still can't complain for my first live viewing on the web - not quite in the league of Sex Pistols at the Free Trade Hall in Manchester but I won't complain.  ;)

Duma

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#511 Re: IFSC 2016
June 13, 2016, 09:25:24 am
As they mentioned in the commentary, it will be interesting to hear if anything hard gets done in RMNP with lots of climbers staying on for a while...

Fb says sol sa just did her first V10 on rock

Find  that a tiny bit depressing tbh.

36chambers

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#512 Re: IFSC 2016
June 13, 2016, 02:46:23 pm
Am I right in thinking Shauna may end this year setting the record for the highest score for a given season in the world cup?

If she were to win the final event, and if her 9th place score is dropped, she would then have the second highest score possible.

Even if she tanks the last event, does anyone happen to know if anyone else has ever had a more dominant season?

edit: I've just realised that there isn't necessarily a consistent number of events throughout the years, so obviously they aren't directly comparable.

galpinos

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#513 Re: IFSC 2016
June 13, 2016, 03:11:42 pm

Anna Stoehr? 2013 I think she had 7 1sts and a 2nd out of 8 comps?

Footwork

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#514 Re: IFSC 2016
June 13, 2016, 03:16:22 pm
As they mentioned in the commentary, it will be interesting to hear if anything hard gets done in RMNP with lots of climbers staying on for a while...

Fb says sol sa just did her first V10 on rock

Find  that a tiny bit depressing tbh.

I know! I saw this and thought unbelievable! I don't know how close she lives to real rock though. I picture monsters being born in gyms, only seeing natural light on day release to compete.

36chambers

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#515 Re: IFSC 2016
June 13, 2016, 03:57:20 pm

Anna Stoehr? 2013 I think she had 7 1sts and a 2nd out of 8 comps?

Fair enough. Effort Anna :bow:

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#516 Re: IFSC 2016
June 13, 2016, 04:05:59 pm
Yeah, I was surprised the commentators didn't know that - it was an extraordinary season for Anna. Perhaps they have only started following the comps in the last couple of years.

Durbs

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#517 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 09:15:39 am
Good round, great result.

Ideally a couple more tops for the men would've been nice - Rubstov dropping M2 was tantalising, M4 looked really hard - especially as the last problem when everyone's already gassed.

9/10 production, couple of duff camera shots, Kyra was a good commentator which in turn gave Charlie something more to talk about.


Paul B

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#518 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 12:14:17 pm
Yeah, I was surprised the commentators didn't know that - it was an extraordinary season for Anna. Perhaps they have only started following the comps in the last couple of years.

That's not really a good reason not to know (/not to be supplied with info on) such things as a commentator.

standard

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#519 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 12:25:53 pm
Kyra was a good commentator.

Really? Maybe harsh, but she has one of those bland monotone american voices. Almost had to mute it.

galpinos

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#520 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 12:27:51 pm
Yeah, I was surprised the commentators didn't know that - it was an extraordinary season for Anna. Perhaps they have only started following the comps in the last couple of years.

It was in 2013, not 1983.

a dense loner

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#521 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 12:28:42 pm
But they're not really commentators are they? In the grand scheme of things. One's nearly always from the semis who didn't make it into the final and who knows who the other is?

Durbs

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#522 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 12:56:55 pm
Not as monotonous as others I thought... and every other word wasn't "like", and very few "super-" things too.

I think I've worked out what my grumble is about the commentary in general is; it's the lack of passion.
When Rubstov dropped the last move, it was a very flat "Oh, he's missed it" where as me and the Mrs let out a big "Ooooooooooo". There's no excitement from the commentators.
Also, it seems they're both watching the screen, not the live action as a couple of times they didn't know what attempt a person was on (Melissa on W3? for example) they didn't know whether she'd even pulled on as the camera had only been showing M3. Perhaps they couldn't see the live action, but seems odd to me.

Lastly - the scores not working on screen and saying "check the app" doesn't work if you're not watching live as you'll see the final results...

Paul B

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#523 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 03:25:01 pm
Or the scores being shown over somebody's flash attempt (at least make it semi-transparent)!

But they're not really commentators are they? In the grand scheme of things. One's nearly always from the semis who didn't make it into the final and who knows who the other is?

I know what you're getting at, but yes, they are commentators and it's hardly a big ask (or that complex) to have some access to past stats. You'd need one comps geek to be available via the great wide interweb with a spreadsheet or simply access to the spreadsheet (the IFSC website is rubbish)!

Apart from my above negativity I thought they were decent enough.

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#524 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 04:51:21 pm

 

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