[Duma]

Is she a bit shorter? The French pair in particular seemed to be pressing into the overhang more. I reckon being a top ahead probably takes the "I must flash this!" pressure off too, so perhaps she was content to just give it a few goes?

Shauna's taller than Fanny I think

[a dense loner]

Who's margo? Supermans squeeze?

[Duma]

Margo Hayes

Made semis in Switzerland and recently did Pure Imagination in RRG

[a dense loner]

How wide is Fanny?

[r-man]

Shauna needs a bit of competiton, but that's not her fault.

Yeah. Anna injured. Akiyo for some reason not getting anywhere near finals. No sign of Janja, Megan or Pooch. Jule retired.

From the two rounds so far, it doesn't look like the others are at quite the same level.

[fried]

Akiyo looks completely out of sorts. Maybe an injury? She doesn't look anywhere near the climber she was last year. Or lack of motivation?

[Doylo]

How wide is Fanny?

Depends on girth

[Doug]

Megan Mascarenas didn't compete then? Is she injured, or just skipped it?

I think the commentator said in Switzerland that Megan has school commitments this year and hopes to complete fully next season.

I believe that she's competing in the Vail WC, as is Puccio, but the IFSC's dire website doesn't work properly on my mobile so I can't check the list of starters.

[Duma]

I think the commentator said in Switzerland that Megan has school commitments this year and hopes to complete fully next season.

I've stopped turning the sound on for WCs.

[fried]

I think the commentator said in Switzerland that Megan has school commitments this year and hopes to complete fully next season.

I've stopped turning the sound on for WCs.

He managed to compare climbing with golf last weekend!

[Muenchener]

I think the commentator said in Switzerland that Megan has school commitments this year and hopes to complete fully next season.

I've stopped turning the sound on for WCs.

The Japanese TV commentators for the qualis were having a chat about Shauna's acro-yoga at one point. I would have been curious to understand what they were saying.

[jwi]

Just managed to watch the replay. I thought the commentator was OK and that Sean McColl did a great job as co-commentator.

Melissa Le Neve was not miles off topping the problems she didn't do.

It was good to see Rustam Gelmanov in great form again.

[a dense loner]

I thought Sean was absolutely terrible, nearly always had to be prompted, didn't have much to say when he spoke, and way too many uncomfortable silences between them. The other guy was token.
I'm genuinely surprised a few people said it was good.

[Durbs]

I think it was more that Sean was actually watching the comp, hence having to be prompted. He seems like quite a stats geek too which was quite interesting at times. Also interesting having such a long-term competitor in the booth, little things like the downward jump being technically illegal (to set rather than do, a point the other commentator missed) and he knew his history too.

I felt a little bit sorry for the commentators in that they suddenly had a 4-hour slot, not a 2-hour slot with half-as-much going on as usual, so a lot more air time to fill, and due to the time difference I don't think there was much social media going on for them to commentate on.

I was a bit torn on the women-then-men format. Plus side, you saw all the action, flipside it felt a bit stale at times and made for a long watch (two sittings for us).

No-one mentioned Fanny's W3 "attempt" - fall off, stand around for 3 more minutes, fall off straight away. Had she decided she couldn't do it so was buying Melissa some more time to recover, or just simply underestimated it? Seemed a bit odd.

Is Akiyo officially injured, or just off the boil? Would be nice for Shauna to have some competition... The men's is shaping up to be very interesting.

[SA Chris]

She dis seem to spend a lot of time fannying about without actually trying the problem, then pulled on last second. Maybe it was to give MlN more time.

[Duma]

Really dislike the separate women / men format, took way to long, diluted the atmosphere, and with only two climbers even half decent camera work and production should enable virtually all the action to be caught.

[Duma]

Melissa Le Neve was not miles off topping the problems she didn't do.

It was good to see Rustam Gelmanov in great form again.

Rustam was fucking great.

Agree re Melissa, think she was closer to Shauna than the results show. With this plus Janja and the good yanks not being there, I'm not sure Shauna's as far out in front as seems to be being said.

[Duma]

Good round up with some interesting thoughts from onbouldering:
 http://onbouldering.com/kazo-aftermath/

[Muenchener]

Having watched bits of Kazo on youtube, my son just announced that Innsbruck on 21st May would be an acceptable option for his birthday day out. YYFY. Tickets booked.

Shauna better still be on form, he has plans for a large banner.

[Fiend]

Good stuff! 

[Oldmanmatt]

Having watched bits of Kazo on youtube, my son just announced that Innsbruck on 21st May would be an acceptable option for his birthday day out. YYFY. Tickets booked.

Shauna better still be on form, he has plans for a large banner.

Does it have a heart on it? [emoji12]

[Muenchener]

Having watched bits of Kazo on youtube, my son just announced that Innsbruck on 21st May would be an acceptable option for his birthday day out. YYFY. Tickets booked.

Shauna better still be on form, he has plans for a large banner.

Does it have a heart on it? [emoji12]

I am not falling for your transparent attempt to trick me into saying "it would if I was designing it. phwoar.  etc".

No, apparently.

[battery]

Pooch is still recovering from knee injury. From the dodgy translation on Facebook it seems Akiyo just had a bad round.

[Durbs]

...it seems Akiyo just had a bad round.

Rounds - didn't make finals last week either. Wonder if OnBouldering is correct that it was home-crowd nerves?
This weekend we shall see I guess

[Duma]

Qualis tonight/tomorrow morning.
02:45 - 06:30 men
08:00 - 11:00 women

Semis tomorrow night
02:30 - 04:30

Finals Sunday night
10:00 - 11:30