[iain]

Lots of good psyche this week 


STG: Get big day fit for Dolomites, and lose a little weight.
65.8kg this morning, -1.2kg on last week. Possibly a little fast but might have been a heavy day last week.

Mon: Works with Suse, first session after holiday to get fingers working again. Managed to fall awkwardly off a problem and twisted my knee.

Tues: Day 2 of house re-roof carnage meant a planned trip outside didn't happen. Just had time to run to the Works, 45mins of problems and run home. About 3 miles but knee hurt a bit. Decided to sack off the running to let it rest.

Wed: Doorframe Ancap, 3x10min with 10 min rest

Thurs: Nettle buttress in poor conditions. Partner was on Toys for the boys which I did last year but got on it anyway to push the fingers into action. Managed a few decent links but was leaving greasy fingerprints on every hold trying to climb it. Got very jealous of partner who barely noticed the humidity, dry skinned freak.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Trad weekend swapped for my first ever deep water solo day. Started by doing the full Magical Mytery Tour (which is just that), and finished utterly fucking terryfied dropping off halfway through the Rainbow Bridge crux. Total, irrationally full on heart in mouth fear. Punter.
Finished the day with a bbq while dolomites partner romped up Cavewoman and White Rhino Tea. A really fun day overall, just wish I didn't get the fear.

Sun: Swanage, conditions a bit manky but warmed up and headed to Warlord which went well until I fell off the end of the crux. Common take off point, but disappointed more because I lacked the fight and panicked so missed holds/moves.
Had planned on heading to Giantslayer but by that point the wind/waves/humidity and we couldn't get to the route anyway so bailed home.

Magical Mystery Tour was great, highly recommended. Next time I'm going to try linking 2 of the grottos with some deep cave traversing and a headtorch, just because you can.
The goal for last week was mostly just to wake the body up to climbing again after the holiday and that was achieved, no success on anything else thought. Scrapped running until knee feels better.

Aim for this week is lots of mileage, which will be very like Cheque's autobelay sessions.

[duncan]

S - Gods behaving badly at Bayreuth festival.

Much as I'd like to climb on Naranjo de Bulnes, this is the really big news!

How long ago did you buy your tickets?  How was Das Rheingold?  Only 3h to go to Walküre...

Envious doesn't really begin to describe how I feel...

Neil

Well I never, a fellow Wagnerd! 

Rheingold and Walkure were both great, the settings were very different but the overarching theme of the cycle is oil as a source of power. The spears and breastplate brigade probably won't approve but it was a clear telling of the story. Overall it's pretty well sung. The orchestra is fantastic under Kiril Petrenko (who's recently got the Berlin job). The festspeilhaus acoustic is marvellous and the balance between the singers and orchestra famously ideal. Of course it's as much a pilgrimage as attending a performance and in that it no way disappoints.

Ticket buying has got a lot easier in the last couple of years. I'll PM you the details.

[shark]

S. Mid-day sport climbing. Two high-quality .10's then first-try redpoint on Pet Wall classic .12b. Eve Soggyish bouldering. Dried the holds and worked the exit of Daddy Long Limbs. 

Corrected for you 

 

Those double session days confused me. Thanks for the last three weeks. Just arrived home. 

[nik at work]

Goals unchanged...

M-T - Nothing, relatives visiting.
F - Traverse wall, super hot and sweaty. 7b traverse 4 times to warm up, eliminate traverse with a mid trav shake out (8a???) 3 times, 2/3rds of eliminate traverse then greasing off and twatting elbow, owwww! Home James...
S - Steep trad project wall with Doug. Only a short session so rather than faff putting a rope on my project I had a play on Dougs project with him. Managed to get through the crux from the ground 4 out of 6 attempts but didn't have any sort of sequence for the headwall so kept on fluffing it (I was basically trying it ground up).
S - Steep trad project wall again. Another short session so gatecrashed Dougs route again. This time tried from the crux up and managed to do the top half (which is still hard in it's own right, 7c+/8a??). Then climbed fromt he ground through the crux and then dropped it. Doug reckons the whole route is about 8b, which doesn't sound far off the mark to me. Done it now in two overlapping sections so it's game on for a repeat (once Doug gets it done...). The other nice thing about this route is it's safe (albeit with decent airtime potential) just hard.

After pretty much two full weeks of nothing climbing related it feels good to be back at the coalface. Bring it on...

Congratulations to various successful people this week.

[Luke Owens]

Looks like a good week all around, good effort everyone!

M: Diamond - Partner bailed last minute but went down anyway to bolt a new line. Didn't realise but spring tides meant it was extra high. Got to the end of the handline and the beach was completely cut off... Didn't want to go anywhere else without a partner so jumped in the sea, waded in up to my waist with no shoes on. Cut my feet and legs but was psyched all the same.

Spent most of the day working, cleaning and bolting a route to the left of the 7b+ ("The Thing That Should Not Be") I did last week. Looked really awesome, the 2 Pete's came in later on and I had a quick working go on the new one but was too boxed from equipping.

T: Antags and stretching

W: Rest

T: Diamond - Short window of opportunity in the evening due to tides; Put clips in on the newie, manged it first redpoint. Felt about 7a named "The Call of Cuthulu". Really good climbing, then did a link-up of the easy section of both the new ones to make a great 6c-ish route called "R'lyeh". Both will be ace once cleaned up a bit, get on 'em!

The names are based around H. P. Lovecraft's short stories about a sea monster.

Belayed Pete on his new monster stamina route "Shine On" mega inspiring as he completely pathed it. Strong effort buddy, up there with my favorite belays!

F: Rest

S: Diamond - As predicted connies were rubbish but wanted to see how hard "Non-Tidal Screamer" (7c) was. All felt fine apart from the moves off the deck as I'm really weak on pinches.

Watched Pete Robins onsight my new 7b+ and he looked to stuggle a little bit so it must be a bit tricky!

S: Rest

Need to switch to mileage mode now ready for Ceuse next month

[Doylo]

Watched Pete Robins onsight my new 7b+ and he looked to stuggle a little bit so it must be a bit tricky!

I wouldn't read too much into that, he's overrated.

[Luke Owens]

Watched Pete Robins onsight my new 7b+ and he looked to stuggle a little bit so it must be a bit tricky!

I wouldn't read too much into that, he's overrated.

Haha, he did get his heel stuck in a flake on the 2b starting moves...

[petejh]

The only man to find a heel hook on the crux crimps of body torque.

[Johnny Brown]

M. Freeway. Squamish's answer to Astroman - kind of. Unfortunately I fell off on the crux and dogged it then took a proper leader fall off one of the pitches of the Express finish. Toby however did it all clean, the bastard

Nice. As in the fingerlock move round the roof? Exciting position for a lob! I was chuffed with that pitch when I first led it.

[shark]

M. Freeway. Squamish's answer to Astroman - kind of. Unfortunately I fell off on the crux and dogged it then took a proper leader fall off one of the pitches of the Express finish. Toby however did it all clean, the bastard

Nice. As in the fingerlock move round the roof? Exciting position for a lob! I was chuffed with that pitch when I first led it.

Yes - a long move off baggy hand jams on poor feet for a fingerlock above a trillion metre drop. Habrich got some kind of wrapped undercut rather than jam when following.   

[mr chaz]

STG more 7Cs and 8as
LTG 8A and 8B

M. Wall session. BBC, just bouldering.
T.
W. Cheedale Cornice. 4 rp goes at Jug Jockey, falling at the crux each time.
T. Wall. Max hangs routine. 5.5kg on pulley. Finally got a positive response to a job application, interview on Monday for graduate geologist position at a hydrogeology consultancy  .
F. Prepare for interview!
S. Prepare for interview!
S. Prepare for interview!

(Interview went really well, find out next week...)

[fried]

Hoping for a good answer 

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Board feeling a bit so just lapped things.
Thu. Nothing
Fri. Bike to work and back 20 miles there, 24 back.
Sat. Stoney edge. A bit warm in the sun bearable in the shade, managed Baby Bouncer and Do like Zoldberg 6c+failed a few harder things. Although did something up the line of Zaftiy but probably started too high. Then did a few very hot 6as to 6b+s.
Then drove to Warrington to see my mum as the care home had said she wasn't eating and drinking. Not good.
Sun. Ring my sister for an up date on mum, she's out for a bike ride. Arrange to speak to her when I've been for aride. Bike 63.85 miles 3 hrs 41 mins. Ring sister to find mum had died an hour earlier.
A bit of a shit week.

[tomtom]

A bit of a shit week.

Sorry to hear that Webbo Good that you got to see her on Sat..

[fried]

  Hang in there.

[webbo]

She had dementia for 10 years and you know how it's going to end but when it happens it's still a shock.
Old age doesn't end well does it.

[iain]

Really sorry to hear that webbo