[SA Chris]

Nowt wrong with a bit o cake

[Nibile]

LTG - board projects.

Mon - nada
Tue - weights complex static, 1 min abs, bentover rows, 1 min abs, 15 snatch pulls x 2. Brutal.
Wed - system static 4 kg, system pg 10 kg. Very good!
Thu -  boulder, barbell complex. Fucked my right shoulder.
Fri - kettlebell, broad jumps, weights complex. Kept fucking my shoulder.
Sat - shoulder rehab.
Sun -  shoulder rehab, barbell complex, abs.

All in all good week despite temps and being an idiot.
Solid progress on the system board, constant with more weight added. Good vibes on the board but bouldering with 32 degrees is not a valid reference.
Finally an entire week of dining out is over, I feel like a pig fried in lard.

[tomtom]

S - Highball Norwich. 2 hours of problems.

Any good? In N.Norfolk for a few days next week... if it rains etc...

[andy_e]

If it rains? Why does that matter, unless you're thinking of getting rained off all those amazing crags in North Norfolk? 

[r-man]

Crags like these...

[tomtom]

If it rains? Why does that matter, unless you're thinking of getting rained off all those amazing crags in North Norfolk? 

Pah! Because if it rains - we'll be spending time indoors, going to look at 'interesting' churches, mooching around shops etc... activities that I can bunk off from and do some training..

[petejh]

STG: The Brute (by 6th Sept); Diamond new route proj; Detritus Wall trad proj; G.Orme trad proj.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

End of Strength phase into start of Power phase.

M. Fingerboard sesh 5. Smashed all PB's.
T. Craig y Forwyn trad plodding. Did an E4 then we bailed in heavy rain.
W. Core and mobility workout.
T. Campus sesh 1. Good first sesh, 1-4-6, 1-3-6 on medium rungs both harms, double dynos 1-2-3-4 on mediums and small.
F. Mobility sesh.
S. Diamond to put bolt in the runout finish of my proj. Campus sesh 2 in evening, good, 1-4-6, 1-3-6 and 1-4-touching top of 7 on small rungs, both arms. Double dynos 1-2-3-4 and 1-3-5 on smalls. Down-up-down double dynos 3-2-3-2-3 on smalls. Sharpest I've ever felt for a sesh, must re-equip more often before workouts..
S. Core and mobility sesh.

Good week, fingers feel indestructible and power feels good. 1-4-7 tonight I hope.

[T_B]

S - Highball Norwich. 2 hours of problems.

Any good? In N.Norfolk for a few days next week... if it rains etc...

I've been quite a bit as my wife's folks live 10 minutes away. It has a very good comp wall and there's a comp this w/e which Percy is setting at, so I'm sure you'll be able to keep yourself amused for a few hours next wk. The board they have is covered in Beastmaker holds and is hard. If you wanted to get strong fingers, you could do worse than training on that board. There's a good campus area and unlike The Foundry, they haven't just ruined it by sticking pointless big blobs on it. The rest of the centre has a lot of vert surfaces, but there are a few good sections and generally the problem setting is excellent. For Norwich, it punches way above its weight. In addition, the locals are always v friendly - it's a small scene and they spot visitors a mile off.

[tomtom]

S - Highball Norwich. 2 hours of problems.

Any good? In N.Norfolk for a few days next week... if it rains etc...

I've been quite a bit as my wife's folks live 10 minutes away. It has a very good comp wall and there's a comp this w/e which Percy is setting at, so I'm sure you'll be able to keep yourself amused for a few hours next wk. The board they have is covered in Beastmaker holds and is hard. If you wanted to get strong fingers, you could do worse than training on that board. There's a good campus area and unlike The Foundry, they haven't just ruined it by sticking pointless big blobs on it. The rest of the centre has a lot of vert surfaces, but there are a few good sections and generally the problem setting is excellent. For Norwich, it punches way above its weight. In addition, the locals are always v friendly - it's a small scene and they spot visitors a mile off.

Cool. Thanks.

[andy_e]

Joining again to hopefully keep me on track with pre-font training.

STG: Climb some climbs in Font.

M: Rest.
T: Wall. 1.5 hrs. Did the summer comp problems. None are too hard really. Martin nearly does them all in a session, obviously. Previous week's sessions at the wall left me with a sore right lat, this seems to be dissipating now but still feel weak in my right arm.
W: "rest" i.e. too lazy to do owt.
T: Wall. On my bill tonight. Warm up, then Beastmaker board for 1 hour. Finally managed to get back to the stage of being able to retro-flash the warm-up problems. Still getting massively spanked on the next level up problems though, but given a bit more fitness I should be able to retro-flash them again. Finished off by getting a sweat on running around the orange circuit (probably 5 - 6B+ range).
F: Was supposed to go on a run but a shit day at work drove me to a beer.
S: Started off at Roundhill, a nice little venue near Slipstones. First grit for about 3 months. Got spanked. Reminded me of the old Confucius saying, "He who climb no grit in three months, then gets on the sharpest crimps on grit, he truly is an idiot." Failed on the 6C (too hot to hold the sloper), failed on Trending Right (this is way harder than 7A) due to shit skin on the razor crimps, failed on Tiny Corner due to it being too warm to hold the finishing sloper, failed on Jumping Left due to not being able to hold onto the starting crimps any more due to a lack of skin, but I've done this climb before so I'm not too bothered. Walked over to Clint Crags to check out Backwards J, an excellent-looking problem, but unfortunately my skin was far too thin to make progress. Finished off by climbing the 6B arete, which had an interestingly filthy top-out! Long day out (by my standards) hoping to get some fitness back.
S: Shaftoe with One Man and His Dog. After an epic battle with copious bracken, met Martin at Butch Catch-Me which was the worst problem for someone who had removed all their skin the previous day. Didn't do it but it looks ace so one to head back for. Then, out of nowhere, managed to flash Slim Shady SS twice. I've no idea where that came from, as flashing 7A is very rare for me at the best of times, but that one suited me down to the ground. Properly psyched and a great set of moves, thuggish start, then crimpy middle to a juggy top! Finished off the day on Duvel 8.5% which gets 7A. Flashed this too, but it must be a misprint as it's probably 6A. Did it in two different ways, the obvious way, then the way the guidebook says it goes, both around the same grade. Not a bad day given a lack of skin and DOMS from the day before!

Getting back into the swing of things now... Hopefully there'll be more this week!

[webbo]

S - Highball Norwich. 2 hours of problems.

Any good? In N.Norfolk for a few days next week... if it rains etc...

I've been quite a bit as my wife's folks live 10 minutes away. It has a very good comp wall and there's a comp this w/e which Percy is setting at, so I'm sure you'll be able to keep yourself amused for a few hours next wk. The board they have is covered in Beastmaker holds and is hard. If you wanted to get strong fingers, you could do worse than training on that board. There's a good campus area and unlike The Foundry, they haven't just ruined it by sticking pointless big blobs on it. The rest of the centre has a lot of vert surfaces, but there are a few good sections and generally the problem setting is excellent. For Norwich, it punches way above its weight. In addition, the locals are always v friendly - it's a small scene and they spot visitors a mile off.

They won't spot Tom, he looks like the Banjo player in Deliverance.

[tomtom]

S - Highball Norwich. 2 hours of problems.

Any good? In N.Norfolk for a few days next week... if it rains etc...

I've been quite a bit as my wife's folks live 10 minutes away. It has a very good comp wall and there's a comp this w/e which Percy is setting at, so I'm sure you'll be able to keep yourself amused for a few hours next wk. The board they have is covered in Beastmaker holds and is hard. If you wanted to get strong fingers, you could do worse than training on that board. There's a good campus area and unlike The Foundry, they haven't just ruined it by sticking pointless big blobs on it. The rest of the centre has a lot of vert surfaces, but there are a few good sections and generally the problem setting is excellent. For Norwich, it punches way above its weight. In addition, the locals are always v friendly - it's a small scene and they spot visitors a mile off.

They won't spot Tom, he looks like the Banjo player in Deliverance.

I hate the banjo. I really hate the damned things with their plinky plonky sound.

I would gladly pour petrol over a huge pile of banjo's and set them alight.

BURN THEM ALL.

[webbo]

You need to be careful saying things like that as it will be devil talk down there. You will need to watch your big city ways.

[tomtom]

You need to be careful saying things like that as it will be devil talk down there. You will need to watch your big city ways.

Will I need to find an additional wife(ves?) to bring along to fit in?

[shark]

Do you plan to get on Freeway? Felt like E3 6a to me - low down crux a bouldery layback, pitch through the roof above the Truck Stop intimidating but over quite quickly IIRC. Even better is the Big Slick variation 

Yes - Freeway is the main objective for the trip.

Toby doesn't know anyone who has done the Big Slick - apparently the first ascentionist has a reputation as a sandbagger 

[webbo]

Heavy Duty !             

Apparently it should be spelt "Hevy".

One of a crew of retrobate Brits who crossed the pond BITD and liked it so much that they never came back. c.f. "Crusher", "Strappo", "Dirty" Derek (RIP), etc

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1841820/Alan-Hevy-Duty-Stevenson-Appreciation-thread

Have you checked there isn't a warrant out for him.

I should have mentioned I climbed with Alan a lot back in 1974? when he wasn't somewhere at Her Majestys pleasure. Usually to do with something that fell off the back of a Chemists shop.

[Muenchener]

S - Highball Norwich. 2 hours of problems.

Any good? In N.Norfolk for a few days next week... if it rains etc...

I've been quite a bit as my wife's folks live 10 minutes away. It has a very good comp wall and there's a comp this w/e which Percy is setting at, so I'm sure you'll be able to keep yourself amused for a few hours next wk. The board they have is covered in Beastmaker holds and is hard. If you wanted to get strong fingers, you could do worse than training on that board. There's a good campus area and unlike The Foundry, they haven't just ruined it by sticking pointless big blobs on it. The rest of the centre has a lot of vert surfaces, but there are a few good sections and generally the problem setting is excellent. For Norwich, it punches way above its weight. In addition, the locals are always v friendly - it's a small scene and they spot visitors a mile off.

Wow. Strange. I mean, what's the point of having a good climbing wall in Norwich? Anybody who is interested enough to start to get strong is going to want to emigrate asap. Might be useful for me though as my mum & sister live nearby.

If the weather's good, go to the north coast anywhere between Blakeney and Wells and walk out on the sand flats beyond the marshes a far as you can at low tide. It's a pretty out there situation; when the tide turns it comes in across the miles of sand flats that you just walked over, about as fast as you can walk back. Proper alpine feeling, like being on a west facing snowslope in the afternoon waiting for the whole lot to fall down on top of you.

[shark]

Heavy Duty !             

Apparently it should be spelt "Hevy".

One of a crew of retrobate Brits who crossed the pond BITD and liked it so much that they never came back. c.f. "Crusher", "Strappo", "Dirty" Derek (RIP), etc

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1841820/Alan-Hevy-Duty-Stevenson-Appreciation-thread

Have you checked there isn't a warrant out for him.

I should have mentioned I climbed with Alan a lot back in 1974? when he wasn't somewhere at Her Majestys pleasure. Usually to do with something that fell off the back of a Chemists shop.

I'm sure he's a reformed and upstanding citizen now..

[SA Chris]

it's a small scene and they spot visitors a mile off.

As if the opposable thumb wasn't a giveaway.

[petejh]

I visited mid-Suffolk leisure centre (in Stowmarket) sometime around 2010 and thought their bouldering was brilliant. They'd paid to have I think Gaz Parry set the probs and they were all ace - better quality than the n.wales bouldering walls at that time.

Still Norfolk though, eery.

[r-man]

Wow. Strange. I mean, what's the point of having a good climbing wall in Norwich? Anybody who is interested enough to start to get strong is going to want to emigrate asap.

Really?

[nai]

On holiday so other other than a bit of body boarding and some leisurely walks I've done nowt all week, althought the cool box is quite heavy to carry through sand    Keep threatening to run to the boulangerie in the morning but thinking about it is as close as I've come.  On the plus side my finger is much improved, the PIP is visibly less swollen and I can make a proper hard fist for the first time in a month and the tenderness in the A1 has reduced too, reckon there's a fighting chance of doing some proper training when I get home.

[tomtom]

On holiday so other other than a bit of body boarding and some leisurely walks I've done nowt all week, althought the cool box is quite heavy to carry through sand    Keep threatening to run to the boulangerie in the morning but thinking about it is as close as I've come.  On the plus side my finger is much improved, the PIP is visibly less swollen and I can make a proper hard fist for the first time in a month and the tenderness in the A1 has reduced too, reckon there's a fighting chance of doing some proper training when I get home.

Hope you're maintaining a suitable pastry to wine consumption ratio...

[webbo]

Heavy Duty !             

Apparently it should be spelt "Hevy".

One of a crew of retrobate Brits who crossed the pond BITD and liked it so much that they never came back. c.f. "Crusher", "Strappo", "Dirty" Derek (RIP), etc

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1841820/Alan-Hevy-Duty-Stevenson-Appreciation-thread

Have you checked there isn't a warrant out for him.

I should have mentioned I climbed with Alan a lot back in 1974? when he wasn't somewhere at Her Majestys pleasure. Usually to do with something that fell off the back of a Chemists shop.

My god I couldn't see the picture at work. Someone doesn't seem to have worn well.
Alan was a great motivator back in the day he would talk you in to trying anything. On one my first trips to Wales, having just lead my first VS Inverted V at Alan's suggestion.
We did Alt leads on Direct route, followed by alt leads on Diagonal only for Alan fail to see the obvious jamming crack on the top pitch and end up doing the top pitch of Zeta. Probably because he saw 2 pegs in it, he was a bit obsessed with all things pegging.
He then sent me and Andy Bowman up Sickle then grade just Extreme.
So we went from a single pitch VS to multi pitch Extreme in a day. I wish someone could talk me up that grade improvement now.

[the_dom]

Mon: Weights (deadlifts and benchpresses) at lunch; bouldering, campusing (1-4-7 off the couch YYFY) and hangboard in the evening
Tues: 40 min trail run
Wed: Weights (deadlifts and benchpresses) at lunch; bouldering and hangboard in the evening. Was feeling tired in the evening.
Thurs: Treadmill run
Fri: Weights (deadlifts and benchpresses) at lunch
Sat: Bouldering outside - did a couple of things in low 7As and worked a 7C and 8A. Skin felt slippery. Hangboard in the evening - one arm max hangs and Bechtel protocol hangs.
Sun: Morning surf in obscenely cold water followed by a huge lunch and lots of wine.

Started feeling really tired this week - think the combination of weights and climbing without real rest days is more tiring than I thought. Might have to dial it back slightly.