[rodma]

Mon: nuttin
Tue: weights campus and fb. Really struggled to do much.
Wed: wake up with a raging fever
Thu: still have fever
Fri: ditto
Sat: Kyloe in. Did the usual warm up set fine, can't touch my project, try hitchhikers ss rh but can't quite nail the move to the good standstart pocket. Did pallet lh thanks to some good beta. Good problem and quote a good scene there on Saturday.
Sun: should have been Shaftoe but weather iffy. Was going to just had back up the road but tried back bowden, which was fine, but I was too broken from the day before to really climb.

[Dolly]

M 8 easy top roped routes at the gym then Pilates
T Worked late
W Foundry lunchtime, Finished the rest of the new level 2s. Gym for core stuff in the evening
T Worked late
F Gym at 6:30 am for core stuff before work - only because I couldn't sleep
S Beginner's Wall. Did short problem. Realised I'd done Swing Thing before. Hot
S Rode the new trail section in Lady Canning's in the evening. Very good and pretty popular even at 8 at night


 

[shark]

Goals? Bollocks. Without radical change in my work/ family circumstances or place of residence – none of which are in the offing - I see no realistic prospect of ever getting on actual rock regularly enough to become vaguely competent at climbing it. If I could think of something sufficiently interesting to do that didn’t involve spending every free weekend grinding up  down the fucking autobahn, pissing away a fortune in petrol in order to achieve bugger all, then my climbing gear would be going on ebay tonight. No sufficiently compelling alternative has presented itself just yet though, so on with the show:

Ouch. Hope you can keep the faith

11.6-7

M. Tor AM with Mark R.  Rainy but not too greasy Go 1 on Anger Management sticked from ground. Go 2 led ground to pinging off RH gaston after clipping hard to clip bolt (=high point from 2 years ago). Go 3 not as good - cant remember details
T. Eve. Bachar ladder - tried hard but didnt quite manage the double double. Fingerboard - good session scored another 10 sec full crimp on 16mm with +15kg and three ok hangs with +27.5kg dragged
W.
T.  Tor AM Met Iain there. Bit warm. Felt ok on dog putting draws in. 2 redpoints getting to do the tricky clip but then shut down. Putting it down to greasy holds.
F.  PM. No 10 sec hangs crimped but got a PB (by one sec) for drag on 16mm edge with +27.5kg by one sec (to 8 secs)
S. Travelling to Squamish
S. AM Smoke Bluffs. Trad ! Toby put us on some classic cracks which I led and Tommy then did on my gear. PM Chek Canyon Sport. Busy with loud Americans. Got shut down on the last move of an 11c. Toby then flashed it as did Tommy on TR. Went on a 12a. Did the hardest move but was pumped and blew the move above and dogged to the top. Got Tommy on lead but he wigged out. Toby flashed as did Tommy on TR. Managed to redpoint it comfortably.

Varied week. Squamish is a great setting. Trad is amazing and Sport whilst not world class is pretty good. Going to make the most of it over the next three weeks. Toby is looking impressively skinny and giving me some stern lessons about dieting.

[Sasquatch]

Be sure to check out at least a bit of the bouldering.  It's world class as well. 

[shark]

Be sure to check out at least a bit of the bouldering.  It's world class as well.

  Toby's not keen. From what Ive seen so far it doesn't look like the sort of training-for-sport-routes bouldering that I can get excited about ie lots of heelhooking and other weirdness. My eldest son well be joining us on Saturday and claims he wants to go bouldering ie get a 7A outdoor tick but usually gets frustrated when faced with real thing. 

Any recommendations for areas/problems in the V4-V7 range with decent landings, a short walk in and guaranteed to raise collective enthusiasm ? 

Grand Wall tomorrow 

[Three Nine]

Be sure to check out at least a bit of the bouldering.  It's world class as well.

 the sort of training-for-sport-routes bouldering that I can get excited about 

like west side story?

[shark]

T. Eve. Bachar ladder - tried hard but didnt quite manage the double double.

Forgot to mention later in the week I managed to do this ie 1-3-5-7. I'm pretty sure I never managed to do this when I strung it up at Broughton Wall in the mid  90's

[shark]

Be sure to check out at least a bit of the bouldering.  It's world class as well.

 the sort of training-for-sport-routes bouldering that I can get excited about 

like west side story?

Fair point. That was actually an inspiring objective in its own right.

[Sasquatch]

Toby's not keen.

I know

From what Ive seen so far it doesn't look like the sort of training-for-sport-routes bouldering that I can get excited about ie lots of heelhooking and other weirdness. My eldest son well be joining us on Saturday and claims he wants to go bouldering ie get a 7A outdoor tick but usually gets frustrated when faced with real thing. 

Any recommendations for areas/problems in the V4-V7 range with decent landings, a short walk in and guaranteed to raise collective enthusiasm ? 

Grand Wall tomorrow 

Yeah for Grand Wall!!

Very true in general about the bouldering. Squealing Pork is a nails vertical v7 that would be good "wall-style" training. A bit highball, but the landings decent.   

Hmm.  Pretty much everything in the Grandwall and North walls is a short walk in, so that's a check. 

The Fuzz-v7 is quite good. Big moves, decent holds, cool kneebar.  Check out the vids so you know the beta. 

No Excuse for pr0n Hair-v4 and stellar, although probably too highball and landings are ??

This Monkey's Gone to Heaven-v7.  No heelhooking craziness.  Landing seems bad, but is actually fine.   

Viper-v5 is quite classic and aesthetic.  Funky climbing though. 

I'll try to think of a few more.  That's an odd range in Squamish.  I feel like the v7's and up really start to become stellar.  and there are quite a few good v2-v3 problems, though i can't really remember most of them.  Super Dyke and Dyke-surfer are both quality.

[Sasquatch]

Toby's not keen.

I know

Honestly, the trad is definitely a step above the bouldering, so if you're more keen on that, then go that way

[shark]

Thanks Sas,

excited about trad here - amazing lines everywhere

[Sasquatch]

Innit crazy how close Toby's place is to the smokebluffs, which are amazing. 

I think there's a really good v5? down the trail from Toby's place.  It's in the guidebook as a top100. 

[shark]

Innit crazy how close Toby's place is to the smokebluffs, which are amazing. 

I think there's a really good v5? down the trail from Toby's place.  It's in the guidebook as a top100.

Vigilante ?

Yes - Toby's house must rate as one of the best situated climbers house anywhere - even has his own crag!

[Sasquatch]

Yeah, I think thats the one.  Fun and nearby.  I think it has a v7/8 lower start as well, so could be an easier one to get son #1 on for a grade 7 tick...

[nai]

T.  Tor AM Met Iain nai/Ian there.

Same but different

2 redpoints getting to do the tricky clip but then shut down.

Been thinking about this since Thu, I have the same thing following a long shake when you've seeemingly got a lot back but then immediately blow up a few moves into a hard sequqnce. Anyone else experience this? Any clues why or what's the answer?

[shark]

Sorry Ian

2 redpoints getting to do the tricky clip but then shut down.

Been thinking about this since Thu, I have the same thing following a long shake when you've seeemingly got a lot back but then immediately blow up a few moves into a hard sequqnce. Anyone else experience this? Any clues why or what's the answer?
[/quote]

Re AM it's because it's hard. I've been jumaring to the hole and get shut down at the same point. Conditions weren't on our side

[JackAus]

Late in the week... Fuck all outside. Everything damp.

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest
T: Fear Factory. Spotted mate on his long term project. Top was wet so no go. I jumped on a 2 year old nemesis and did it. 5m V5 slab. Rocksteady Teddy. Brilliant problem. Chuffed to bits.
W: St Leonards. New stuff. All pretty easy. Every new problem besides one of the mid-grade ones that just hurts my fingers. Good fingerboard session afterwards. Front levers. Going well.
T: St Leonards. Making up problems and repeating some of the harder things here. Fingerboard, core push ups and front levers after
F: Rest.
S: St Leonards. Usual usual. Added in a bunch of gymnastics stuff today. Started working on slow press into hand stands. Lots of pull ups. Worked.
S: St Leonards. Short session. Lats brutalized from yesterday.