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50 for 5 - ashes link up (Read 2097 times)

TobyD

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50 for 5 - ashes link up
July 23, 2015, 11:33:35 pm
tried this briefly the other day, what is the traverse line? Best method i found was to get right hand to a sharp 2 finger pocket left of the 50 for 5 edges at the belay of that, left to gaston the flat edge held with right on the ashes, and do a really powerful gaston/ roll over move with right hand to hit the glued on crimp on the ashes,then standard as for that. Doable, but felt rather tricky, easier sequences anyone?

Kingy

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#1 Re: 50 for 5 - ashes link up
July 24, 2015, 12:21:29 am
Hi Toby
You're method is not the easiest way. The way I did it I got the good break by the 50 for 5 chains and got my left foot on a big polished edge, then did a big rockover out left, bumping from an intermediate on the way to a pocket/ slot for the LH. Then you match feet on the polished edge and put your LF in the eye as a heel toe cam, then clip - a bit bold but totally fine (don't bother clipping at the 50 for 5 belay, way too strenuous). Then I got a small 2 finger pocket with my RH, moved my RF to a good smear on the slab, then matched in the pocket/slot (quite tricky, only room for 6 fingers in total). Go out left to the Ashes LH sidepull then get RH on normal Ashes sidepull then take LH of the cam and your in the Ashes. You're not allowed to step down and rest in the eyes but can use it for your feet. Hope this helps!

TobyD

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#2 Re: 50 for 5 - ashes link up
July 24, 2015, 08:40:45 am
nice one Ted! Cheers, yeah think i was trying to be a bit strict with the eliminating the eyes idea!

 

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