[sxrxg]

The new shoes being shown at the Friedrichshafen Outdoor fair look quite interesting this year with lots of bouldering specific models...

http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fkletterschuhtest.wordpress.com%2Fabout%2F&edit-text=

The La Sportiva Skwama look interesting depending on how they are priced. Also the new Evolv slippers that look like the Jet 7 sound good if they are a softer Nexxo.

So what shoes is everyone excited to try? Has anyone seen any other new models that are coming out?

[fried]

Looking forward to seeing if those blue 5:10 shoes will be an effective replacement for the Blancos.

[Zods Beard]

Good to hear the Front LVapor is now cut and pointed something Egyptian.

[lagerstarfish]

Is he now now stiffer or softened? Anyway, he is now more comfortable!

tee hee

[Nibile]

Some of the most horrible shoes ever made.
I tend to think, just by looking at them, that they will perform worse than present models and will cost more.

[Grubes]

wow a honest review of climbing shoes. Nice change from a certain website where everything is awesome if you sponsor them even if the product is shit

those 5.10 stone masters are ugly as fuck. I wonder how they will look with a curly mustache, bushy beard, leather backpack and fixie bike?

[tomtom]

I LOVE google translate... first chuckle of the morning:

"Neat soft rubber on the top, let anticipation advent"

[moose]

Aye, I liked ".. climbing shoe provides a total of sense - I am excited!"

[andy_e]

"Cleavage relieves the foot from pressure" duly noted.

[erm, sam]

Some of the most horrible shoes ever made.

I saw the new Sportiva shoes at the show and couldn't help wonder if somebody in the product team thought the new Boral shoes actually looked cool instead of shit and used them as inspiration.

[Oldmanmatt]

Those shoes all appear to be made for 19th century Chinese Courtesans...

Or possibly it's the kids range?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[luckyjez]

Had a few new models on my feet so far. My thoughts are;
- 5.10 Verdon is a 'kind of' replacement for the Blanco. It's definitely stiff but a very different shape unlike any other 5.10 I've tried. It has a narrow toe and probably won't suit those with a 'square' foot shape.
- 5.10 Quantum is a nice shoe and is like a Dragon but with more structure and power and seems very well finished. It's also a bit wider at the ball of the foot.
- La Sportiva Otaki is a Katana for steeper harder stuff in effect. The last is the same but the fairly moderate downturn gives it more 'oomph'.
- La Sportiva Skwama is a bit like a softer Solution with (I think) a better heel. It is nowhere near as soft as the Scarpa Furia and Drago. I thought it felt pretty great.
- Scarpa Vapour Lace - a stiffer lace up version of the Vapour V (obviously). Another possible Blanco alternative.

I'll report back if when I try anything else on.

[tomtom]

How many of us actually care what our rock boots look like?

We only wear them in pretty exclusive company (IE who else ever sees them) - they always get filthy/knackered looking fairly quickly - and often end up smelling of ming after a few weeks.

IE At the crag, I mostly model Scarpa's instinct range (pour l'homme) stylishly fashioned in bright orange and deepest black. But you wouldn't catch me wearing orange shoes anywhere else duck...

Wassdaproblem eh?

[tomtom]

Looks like someone has a new sponsor (seems like a vaguely sensible place to post this)

https://twitter.com/moonclimbing/status/623786063002247168

[Wood FT]

How many of us actually care what our rock boots look like?

 

[cha1n]

It's funny when a non-climber takes a look at your climbing shoes and comments on how ridiculous they look. I'd almost forgot.

Then I think back to circa five years ago when I walked into a climbing shop to buy my first pair and the shelves were littered with shoes in yellow, orange, pink, teal, etc. I remember convincing myself that the Evolv Defy was the comfiest one (it wasn't) because they were nice and plain and black.

[Muenchener]

those 5.10 stone masters are ugly as fuck. I wonder how they will look with a curly mustache, bushy beard, leather backpack and fixie bike?

Seen at the wall last week: full beard, short dreads, lederhosen (but no beer in the hand, back around)

[moose]

Had a few new models on my feet so far. My thoughts are;
- La Sportiva Otaki is a Katana for steeper harder stuff in effect. The last is the same but the fairly moderate downturn gives it more 'oomph'.

Sounds like a very similar niche to the Miura VCS - which is essentially a down-turned and pointy version of the Katana (or, as the name indicates, a velcro version of the Miura lace-up - albeit one that holds the down-turn better than the original).

[Grubes]

those 5.10 stone masters are ugly as fuck. I wonder how they will look with a curly mustache, bushy beard, leather backpack and fixie bike?

Seen at the wall last week: full beard, short dreads, lederhosen (but no beer in the hand, back around)

Please some one photo shop these pictures together

[luckyjez]

Had a few new models on my feet so far. My thoughts are;
- La Sportiva Otaki is a Katana for steeper harder stuff in effect. The last is the same but the fairly moderate downturn gives it more 'oomph'.

Sounds like a very similar niche to the Miura VCS - which is essentially a down-turned and pointy version of the Katana (or, as the name indicates, a velcro version of the Miura lace-up - albeit one that holds the down-turn better than the original).

The Miura VS last is a lot more asymmetric than the Katana last and actually not that similar to the Miura lace - it's always been slightly mis-named. The Otaki is more similar to the Katana Lace (no shit) which now gives you a choice of lace or Velcro in very similar lasts, both with a moderate downturn but fairly straight last.

[moose]

I've never tried on the Katana lace-up - it looked to me very different to the Katana velcro - much more aggressive (even more so than either of the Miura models).  Presumably, from what you say, I am mistaken and the Katana lace-up and new Otaki are both fit similar to the Katana velcro - only a little more down-turned (i.e. a bit like a less asymmetric Miura VCS, or a more downturned Muira lace-up)

.... my head hurts... all this is a bit like dancing about architecture....let's face it, the only way of assessing these things is feet first so to speak...

[TobyD]

Looking forward to seeing if those blue 5:10 shoes will be an effective replacement for the Blancos.

Tried some of these on the other day. My guess is yes. They felt like a stiffer old pink anasazi.

[Paul B]

YYFY!

[fried]

 

[cha1n]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7525

Unforunately I don't have time to embed the videos but there's a good set of summary videos of the new shoes coming out done by the ukc team, including a video on the 5.10 Verdon.

Looks like they've butchered the Quantum, seems strange that they've even kept the same name. The Boreal Mutant actually looks quite good. Interesting that they decided to do jet7 style toehooking rubber. I quite liked it but it wasn't very durable, much prefer the toerubber on the instinct VS.

Looking forward to trying all of them on as it's always good to have new shoe options but some of the RRPs are alarming.