[jwi]

I did a short test of the Verdon this summer and liked it quite a lot. It will be the only shoe I'll bring to Taghia. I usually climb in Miura.

[Lopez]

Interesting "news" about male/female versions coming off one of these videos

Useful to know if someone likes their shoes a little softer/harder

[rodma]

What's the bullshit with male/female versions manufacturers are insisting on ?

I wish they'd concentrate on just making good shoes.

Are men's and women's feet really that different? I've never seen two climbers with the same shaped feet as it is

[Stu Littlefair]

You should watch the vid rodma - that's exactly what pietro says. Sportiva's men's/women's shoes differ in stiffness and rubber, not shape.

Makes sense to me, but I wish they'd split it by size and not by male/female.


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[cha1n]

Think this is the way they've always done things but if there's no change in the fit then they'd be better off defining the models as soft and stiff (ahem) or something similar. The problem occurs when you're a tall adult male, who is also fairly light (they do exist) or like me you prefer a softer shoe but you can't get the womens model because they don't go up to your size.

Lucky when I used to wear the womens muira they went up to 42, which suited me but not others with bigger feet.

[rodma]

You should watch the vid rodma - that's exactly what pietro says. Sportiva's men's/women's shoes differ in stiffness and rubber, not shape.

Makes sense to me, but I wish they'd split it by size and not by male/female.


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So call them that rather than men's/women's

I hate having tiny feet, too many flagship (men only ) shoes start at a 38. Like the booster s, which is not made for me cos I don't have manly feet.

It's nice to have choice and it'd be great if you could choose the width of heel, thickness of rubber etc. But I appreciate that would cost shoe mfrs a fortune.

[Lopez]

I hate having tiny feet, too many flagship (men only ) shoes start at a 38. Like the booster s, which is not made for me cos I don't have manly feet.

You should aim those toys to the UK distributor rather than the manufacturer. They start them at size 35 apparently http://www.scarpa.net/en/climbing-shoe-booster-s.html

[rodma]

I hate having tiny feet, too many flagship (men only ) shoes start at a 38. Like the booster s, which is not made for me cos I don't have manly feet.

You should aim those toys to the UK distributor rather than the manufacturer. They start them at size 35 apparently http://www.scarpa.net/en/climbing-shoe-booster-s.html

That's good news. When they were first out they were only 38 and up. I hadn't checked at all recently

I don't care about the UK distributors, they have their own agenda and I'm used to ordering from the mainland for my boostics etc., because in the UK it's 38 and up.

[duncan]

I did a short test of the Verdon this summer and liked it quite a lot. It will be the only shoe I'll bring to Taghia. I usually climb in Miura.

I was getting excited at the prospect of the Verdons being a replacement for the late, highly lamented Blancos. I was even beginning to accept the vile turquoise colour (come on, this isn't 1992). Then I heard about the pointy toe. Oh dear. These are blue Miuras aren't they?

Did anyone have the faintest idea what the 5.10 rep. was on about describing the new Quantums? He made no sense whatsoever. Are they soft? Are they down-turned? Who are they aimed at? Descriptions elsewhere make them sound a little bit like Galileos, no bad thing at all, but completely unlike the old Quantums.

[jwi]

These are blue Miuras aren't they?

Blue Miuras is a good description, but maybe better described as the gentleman's Miura.

[Teaboy]

Alarm bells started ringing when I heard that there is a plastic midsole. I remember having a pair of Boreal Sprint II that had this that skidded all over the place as there was no give at all which meant they never moulded to the shape of any hold, especially as they only had a thin veneer of rubber on them, I take it this isn't a problem with these jwi?

[cha1n]

Pretty sure that lots of the La Sportiva models have plastic moulded midsoles and they don't seem to hold anyone back.

[galpinos]

Pretty sure that lots of the La Sportiva models have plastic moulded midsoles and they don't seem to hold anyone back.

You could buy some and test them for the good of UKB cha1n, you seem like a chap in need of some more rockboots...... 

[cha1n]

Haha, I think I've done my fair share of testing and losing money when selling the rejects on!

Currently all sorted for shoes actually:

Peak Lime - Scarpa Instinct VS. I wanted to not like them but they just work, my only worry is that they will eventually bag out above the toebox as slippers do and become useless. Nice and stiff but still lots of feedback through the midsole for those polished holds.

Horizontal roof stuff - 5.10 Dragon/Team/LS Testarossa. Something soft and tensioned for pulling with the feet.

Indoors (hard stuff)/Grit - The La Sportiva no edge bunch. What can I say, fantastic for smearing and as most indoor holds (even edges) tend to be rounded, they work really well on them. Quite good for toehooks for funky indoor moves and grit aretes.

Indoors Training (foot on campus, aerocap, etc) - 5.10 Hiangle. Generally a pants shoe as they are so rounded at the front but I got them cheap and they are well comfy.

Mini review of some old shoes for you!

[Eddies]

140 sheets for a pair of climbing shoes with no edge... The worlds gone mad!!

[jwi]

Alarm bells started ringing when I heard that there is a plastic midsole. I remember having a pair of Boreal Sprint II that had this that skidded all over the place as there was no give at all which meant they never moulded to the shape of any hold, especially as they only had a thin veneer of rubber on them, I take it this isn't a problem with these jwi?

I've only used them for thin face climbing.

[Moo]

Didn't the old green mesa's have something similar ?

[Lopez]

Loads of shoes from different brands have a plastic midsole, some thicker than others, some run all the way to the front of the shoes while others stop just short of the edge. Styx, Magos, Miura VS, Soultions...

I can't be the only one here running shoes into the ground before replacing them, surely 

[Moo]

No Lopez you certainly aren't.

 I know a lot of more modern shoes have the stiffened midsoles I referred to the Mesa as I think this is the last time 5.10 tried something like this though I could be wrong.

[T_B]

Has anyone got a pair of Scarpa Furias? How do they size compared to Instinct / Instinct VS / Booster S? I am a 43.5 in Instinct VS but was a 43 in Instinct. Have a pair of Booster S size 44 but they're a tad too big. Thanks!

[Three Nine]

Same as the booster S. I love them (except dumb ridge in the heel)

[Drew]

Talking to Barrans, he's the same size in all his Scarpas. He said the heel ridge is great when hooking a crimp around a vertical arete.

Re the midsoles, they vary a lot from something resembling cardboard, to a sheet of stiff plastic not dissimilar to a credit card (John Arran approved), up to TPU i.e. a flexible sheet of material, which once heated and cooled can be as stiff or soft as the manufacturer chooses. Also much easier to shape and stick in the right place. 5.10 seem to be making a song and dance out of using TPU in the Verdon, so I would guess it's their first shoe using it, whereas Scarpa and Sportiva have been using it for years. Tensioned Rands work best with TPU. This is what P3 is, as well as Scarpas midsole technology. It's the reason Sportiva and Scarpa tend not to flatten out as much over time. Crouch has had his VSs resoled 4 times now I think. Still downturned!

Re the Booster S in small sizes, the UK distributors have them in a 36 here. Maybe it's the retailers?

[JonB]

Same as the booster S. I love them (except dumb ridge in the heel)

The Furias look a bit narrower in the toebox than most other Scarpas, is this the case? If so I'll be pretty tempted to give them a try.

[cha1n]

The Furias look a bit narrower in the toebox than most other Scarpas, is this the case? If so I'll be pretty tempted to give them a try.
[/quote]

I found them to be narrower than the instincts when I tried them on, so no good for me. They're also really soft (think 5.10 team). I'm also the same size in all my Scarpas!

[Richie Crouch]

They are a tad more narrow than the instinct vs and I thought half a size up felt about right. Didn't like the heel compared to the VS but the soft toe box felt like it would be great.