[Fultonius]

I am now 80% veggie. Not for any reason other than my gf is and it makes life a lot easier to eat the same stuff.

I am (or used to be) predisposed to putting on weight and muscle. I'm quite light just now (for me) at 72.5kg.

That's the background, now the plan.  I'm bouldering fairly well just now and want to capitalise on this. I'm also going to be in Glasgow for the next year so outdoor climbing will be limited - therefore I'm going to be camped out at TCA for much of the year, trying to get strong.

What I want to know is how much protein does one really need to make sure the training isn't in vain?  I've seen 0.6 to 0.75 g/kg stated as the guideline daily amount for sedentary beings and, at the far end of the scale, you have the power lifters saying 1.5 to 2 g/kg.

Has anyone already done this research and have any good links?
 

[Adam Lincoln]

I'm also going to be in Glasgow for the next year so outdoor climbing will be limited - therefore I'm going to be camped out at TCA for much of the year, trying to get strong.

Hows that? Dumby 20 mins away... Plus all the other stuff a few hours away?

[Fultonius]

P.S. I'm not going to take protein shakes as my body already struggles with dairy (lactose) and apparently the pea-derived ones are truly offal.

I do, on occasion, eat an extra can of mackerel/sardines after a hard session.

[Fultonius]

I'm also going to be in Glasgow for the next year so outdoor climbing will be limited - therefore I'm going to be camped out at TCA for much of the year, trying to get strong.

Hows that? Dumby 20 mins away... Plus all the other stuff a few hours away?

The wet shit that falls continuously from the sky. I was exaggerating a bit, I'll be at Dumby/elsewhere whenever the weather allows.

[jwi]

Adam Ondra is a vegetarian, I guess that's whats holding him back.

I've read up on recommendations for protein quite a bit, both in physiology textbooks and recommendations from various health departments around the world. 0,8g/kg/day is for sedentary up to exercise for three times a week. Some countries recommend slightly more. For competitive weight lifters up to 1,5-2,0 g/kg/day is sometimes recommended. There is little solid evidence for any of these recommendations, despite some heroic attempts from researchers around the world. Suffice to say that no climber would need as much protein as a competitive weight lifter.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/sportsnutrition/a/VegetarianTips.htm

A few valuable pointers here, for the vegetarian athlete.

I was hoping there'd be a little bit more information about combining foodstuffs to access complete  proteins - e.g. chickpeas and sesame seeds in hummus, rice and lentils.

Maybe something useful here:

http://greatist.com/health/complete-vegetarian-proteins

Interestingly, I'm not sure I believe what was said about power lifters - maybe a lot more carbohydrate instead?

[Fultonius]

Just did an analysis of a vaguely typical day for me:

2300kcal & 75g of protein (cheese, grains, nuts)  which is 1.0g/kg

If I add a can of Mackerel then it's:

2650kcal & 89g of protein so 1.2g/kg

So, sounds like I'm going ok and the can of fish is worthwhile on climbing days.  I also snack on nuts or oatcakes and cheese / hummus.