[36chambers]

To add to the downgrade debate, Andy Jackson did Keen Roof today and said it felt 8A+ with 'tall beta'.

Came on here to mention this.

On paper Andy ought to be on the list already for Bulbhaul, but I think this is another one where there's a sequence based grade debate?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BT2THfJj-yl/?igshid=1arr58mvb66a

and he started two moves in

[36chambers]

For me there's not much in it between the keel and the new bulb beta, especially being too short to do the Keel any of the usual ways. I find the moves more reliable (and better) on the bulb so I didn't even bother trying Keelhaul. Couldn't touch Peckitt's original beta last time I tried.

[Bradders]

To add to the downgrade debate, Andy Jackson did Keen Roof today and said it felt 8A+ with 'tall beta'.

Came on here to mention this.

On paper Andy ought to be on the list already for Bulbhaul, but I think this is another one where there's a sequence based grade debate?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BT2THfJj-yl/?igshid=1arr58mvb66a

and he started two moves in

Ha, hadn't noticed that before! Back around Andy.

[tim palmer]

I agree with 36c, even if you start in the right place,  bulbhaul maybe props up the grade at 8a+ with the high heel beta.  It is a good problem though (in the spectrum of odd link ups).

For what it is worth the original beta has only had one repeat to my probably incorrect knowledge (Dan Warren) about ten years ago.  I think that sequence probably is worth 8b. 

[teestub]

There we go, official word from the reigning King of the Cliff 🤴

[tim palmer]

There we go, official word from the reigning King of the Cliff 🤴

Ha ha tom still wears that crown,  I can't even do canine

[andy_e]

For what it is worth the original beta has only had one repeat to my probably incorrect knowledge (Dan Warren) about ten years ago.  I think that sequence probably is worth 8b.

He then did Real Keelhaul ten minutes later (or maybe the other way around?)

[36chambers]

I can't even do canine

That's good to know, saves me the bother trying it

[Bradders]

I can't even do canine

That's good to know, saves me the bother trying it

Haha I thought the same thing 

[tim palmer]

I can't even do canine

That's good to know, saves me the bother trying it

Haha I thought the same thing 

It is easier for the tall, Nick,  you will be fine

[36chambers]

I can't even do canine

That's good to know, saves me the bother trying it

Haha I thought the same thing 

It is easier for the tall, Nick, you will be fine

Back around Bradders

[remus]

Andy J is on the list for his ascent of Keen Roof https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

On a related note, pending a clear consensus for a downgrade Im sticking with Keen Roof at 8B on the list. Doesn't seem to be much controversy about fat lip so gonna leave that at 8B too.

Currently no one is on the list for bulbhaul so Im going to keep it that way.

[User deactivated]

If Superpowers isn’t 8C+ then you can remove me from the list as I haven’t climbed 8B yet. To think of that thing as just one grade harder than benchmark stuff like bewilderness is crazy. Just don’t see how it could get repeated. Woods is busy in the states getting schooled on something Aidan put up in a few hours over 2 very hot sessions.

[remus]

If Superpowers isn’t 8C+ then you can remove me from the list as I haven’t climbed 8B yet. To think of that thing as just one grade harder than benchmark stuff like bewilderness is crazy. Just don’t see how it could get repeated. Woods is busy in the states getting schooled on something Aidan put up in a few hours over 2 very hot sessions.

That's enough of an endorsement for me. 8C+ it is https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

Interesting to compare Woods (https://www.instagram.com/p/CGQEC6apc9A/) and Aidan () on Railway. Woods ain't no punter, but Aidan makes it look like a different problem.

[andy_e]

Also a classic comparison between UK and US celebrations!

[Orrincoley]

Bold claim, but I wouldn't be surprised if it turned out to be 9A if anyone is ever able to repeat it...

But thats a whole other kettle of fish 

[Bradders]

Interesting to compare Woods (https://www.instagram.com/p/CGQEC6apc9A/) and Aidan () on Railway. Woods ain't no punter, but Aidan makes it look like a different problem.

Yeah, Woods has clearly had to find all sorts of little tricks to make it work - adding half a dozen extra moves by the looks of it - whereas Aidan is so strong he can just go bish-bash-bosh-top.

And Woods falls of the move to the lip whilst Aidan just makes that look like a non-event. Cool comparison.

[moose]

The contrast is incredibly impressive - Daniel has to match the rail, RH then LH, and then use another LH intermediate to get a gaston / crimp in the groove.  Aiden just hit the rail with his RH, swung around for a bit, and pulled straight through to the gaston / crimp.  I think Daniel used an extra hold to get to the lip too.  And as you said, whilst Aiden'stop-out looked a tiny bit fraught, it seemed more a matter of nerves than the moves being hard (coincidentally I watched the video of him doing Jade today - he was definitely not impressed by the rock quality for the upper parts - the spotters felt the need to reassure him that the post-crux holds would not fall off!).

[36chambers]

Here's a video of Matt Fultz doing it, seemingly with the same beta as Aidan. It is quite surprising that Woods is messing around so much with his beets. 

[User deactivated]

Here's a video of Matt Fultz doing it, seemingly with the same beta as Aidan. It is quite surprising that Woods is messing around so much with his beets. 

Non-sit sit start. Good link go.

[Coops_13]

Here's a video of Matt Fultz doing it, seemingly with the same beta as Aidan. It is quite surprising that Woods is messing around so much with his beets. 

Non-sit sit start. Good link go.

Bloody Yanks and their ethics...

[Sasquatch]

i'd assume the reason for woods beta is reach for the second move.

[Bradders]

i'd assume the reason for woods beta is reach for the second move.

He's not that small is he? Basing that entirely on him being able to do Sleepwalker with the same beta as Jimmy Webb whilst Nalle struggled to reach on those moves.

[teestub]

Think he’s a similar size to me (5’7”) but with a ludicrous ape, think it’s +7” or so.

[Doylo]

Woods’s wants Aidans fingers for Christmas.