[remus]

Was about to say Leo skinner has bouldered 8B+ with Louis High Society at Bacon Hole but you've beaten me to it!

Adam Smith has done the vault and combination at carnage wall both 8B

Good knowledge, I've added him in.

If the Rail and Bombadil are going to be upgraded for Dan V then surely so does Crescendo, and if that goes up then Flipnic maybe starts to make more sense at 8B+?

Obviously my opinion on Bombadil + The Rail is total guess work, but just basing it on Dan's idiosyncratic use of 8A+/8B/8B+, how long the problems took him and his mega tick list of problems >8A in the UK and abroad. If/when people start repeating them I'll obviously adjust the grade on ch based on their opinions.

What's Crescendo? On the bowderstone presumably but I can't find much mention of it. Happy to go with what other people think for that and Flipnic, I've got no opinion.

[yetix]

That's fair, I honestly can't say re crescendo but it seems like another of the problems capped by Dan's system to me, and I think it's the cause for bowderstone grading being confusing...

[CapitalistPunter]

Ben Gladstone got the second ascent of an 8B called "Lost In The Moment" at Forest Rock not long ago. Sam Blackwell got the third ascent a couple of weeks later.

[Bradders]

Obviously my opinion on Bombadil + The Rail is total guess work, but just basing it on Dan's idiosyncratic use of 8A+/8B/8B+, how long the problems took him and his mega tick list of problems >8A in the UK and abroad. If/when people start repeating them I'll obviously adjust the grade on ch based on their opinions.

Obviously this is just my opinion, but I don't really see how you can have an opinion on the grade of any problem you've never tried... he said 8B+ for them both, in the absence of any other view from actual repeaters (or at least people who've tried them), I think they should stay at what he said.

Notwithstanding that I completely agree with you that Dan's approach to grading makes no sense whatsoever.

[Fiend]

You can't have an opinion on whether Dan's grading makes any sense unless you've tried the problems in question 

[Wellsy]

Pointing out that "these are a grade harder than 8B+s I've done but I didn't give them 8C because I've not done Shadowplay," in a world where Shadowplay never got done, does not make logical sense does feel like a fair point though.

Ahh the spectre of Gaskins looms large even now...

[remus]

Obviously this is just my opinion, but I don't really see how you can have an opinion on the grade of any problem you've never tried... he said 8B+ for them both, in the absence of any other view from actual repeaters (or at least people who've tried them), I think they should stay at what he said.

I think what you've described is a good rule of thumb, but as a hypothetical imagine you had a climber who graded all their first ascents a number grade lower than what they then settled at (e.g. they grade 6A, it settles at 7A, they grade 6B+ it settles at 7B+ etc.) If this pattern stuck for the last 100 problems they put up I think you could take a decent guess that a problem they just gave 6B was likely to be harder than that.

[Bradders]

Obviously this is just my opinion, but I don't really see how you can have an opinion on the grade of any problem you've never tried... he said 8B+ for them both, in the absence of any other view from actual repeaters (or at least people who've tried them), I think they should stay at what he said.

I think what you've described is a good rule of thumb, but as a hypothetical imagine you had a climber who graded all their first ascents a number grade lower than what they then settled at (e.g. they grade 6A, it settles at 7A, they grade 6B+ it settles at 7B+ etc.) If this pattern stuck for the last 100 problems they put up I think you could take a decent guess that a problem they just gave 6B was likely to be harder than that.

The difference there though is that presumably by "settled" you mean various repeaters suggested the higher grade which became the consensus. How many of Dan's problems have actually been repeated AND upgraded by those repeaters?

[yetix]

We're assuming people would upgrade problems which isn't something which happens in the UK lots imo... Particularly in the 8s

[yetix]

Leos gone and done another 8b+ this week!

[remus]

What a beast! He's on a good run of form at the mo.

[Bradders]

Jon Freeman has done Steppenwolf.

[remus]

Thanks for the update, I've added him to the listhttps://climbing-history.org/list/3/strong-british-male-boulderers

[yetix]

Joe Lawson has done Mortal Immortal at 8B+ (think tomahawk gets a slash?)

Rowan Page has done Flip Flopera at 8B

[remus]

Joe Lawson has done Mortal Immortal at 8B+ (think tomahawk gets a slash?)

Rowan Page has done Flip Flopera at 8B

Good knowledge, added them both. Did Joe do Mortal Immortal recently? I see a tantalising hidden log on UKC from a few days ago.

[yetix]

Today I believe

[Duncan campbell]

Luke Dawson has done steppenwolf too (and I think Pete did too) it presume they are both already in the list for other things?

[remus]

Luke Dawson has done steppenwolf too (and I think Pete did too) it presume they are both already in the list for other things?

They were indeed already on the list, airways good to add in a couple of extra ascents though in case something gets downgraded.

[SA Chris]

Looks like Rhys Langland did it too, sorry can't access his IG on work laptop.

[andy_e]

Yes he did, more to come from Invereminem too hopefully.

[SA Chris]

He's been busting out a few 8s in quick succession, looks like a good trip. Taken the DMac hair chopping strategy.

[scragrock]

He's been busting out a few 8s in quick succession, looks like a good trip. Taken the DMac hair chopping strategy.

Pablo is still there though...

[andy_e]

Pablo is to Rhys what hair was to Samson (unfortunately for us)

[scragrock]

Pablo is to Rhys what hair was to Samson (unfortunately for us)

I disagree in the strongestly way possible, Pablo "The Blade" TescoBar is truly a living wonder of the world. Do they Not say "See Pablo and then Die" ?

[yetix]

Luke Dawson has done Tigris which is apparently 8B+? (his logbook comment sounds dubious?)