[monkey boy]

All morphology. Dave finds Paper Birds hard, Jack thinks it’s soft and can lap it but is too short for the one move sit .... Jack thinks Compact and Isles are paths cos he’s tiny but can’t do Malcs, Wedgie ... Someone go and try Neon Handshake for 8a+.. Soft and hard just like anywhere.

Agreed! I still think Paper Birds is one of the hardest problems I've ever done.

I keep saying I'll go look at Neon but never made it there. Looks a lovely wall, but sharp I'd imagine?

[Doylo]

Probably sharp yes. CJDs nicest line. Looks insane to me...
Also still don’t get too many people waltzing up Pools even though it’s 10cm from the road. Even Varian, Landman didn’t do...

[monkey boy]

I thought that one was easy 

[Doylo]

Exactly. Everyone’s different . 

[Stu Littlefair]

I’m not.

[Nike Air]

Stu well done. I've never tried Superman but from what I hear it's a good tick that.
 

[abarro81]

Saying North Wales is full of holiday grades is the same as saying Switzerland is[...] Every area has easy, bang on and hard problems.

It's interesting when you think about what other areas are like, and how our (or at least my) perceptions are distorted by memories of what we've done vs what we've tried. When I think about Rocklands or Australia I think of them as being soft, but a fair amount of what I really mean is that the problems I did were ones that I felt were soft... because, near my limit (which is the problems I remember more), I failed to do the harder ones or sacked them off! So my instinctive memory for Aus is doing 8A+s and 8Bs, but I have to think harder to remember the 8A+s I spent multiple sessions failing on or the 8Bs I couldn't touch. Similarly with Rocklands - I think about stuff like Black Shadow and think "soft", but "forget" that I couldn't get close on the first few moves of Pendragon (which others think is easy). Plus bouldering grades don't make sense, obviously.

P.S. Nice one Stu!

[remus]

Strong work Stu! https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

[monkey boy]

It's funny that! One of the best route climbers in the UK finds power endurance boulder problems "soft" and shorter crimpy problems "hard"

Also nice one Stu!

[User deactivated]

Good work Stu!

All true, I can't touch Wedgie, or the first move of Paper birds sit. And Pools is above my pay grade.
Still at least I can do some stuff, I can't touch 8B at all in the lakes.

Sam Blackwell did Keen Roof this morning it appears, think he skipped 8A and 8A+. Great effort.

[SA Chris]

back on track. Great effort and great shot.

[remus]

Sam Blackwell did Keen Roof this morning it appears, think he skipped 8A and 8A+. Great effort.

Thanks for the nudge Jack, spotted that in the UKC logbooks but forgot to update the list here https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md Skipping from 7C+ to 8B is proper waddage!

[remus]

Finley Wood joins the list with ascents of WADzilla and Godzilla Sit on consecutive days https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

[User deactivated]

Paul Smitton did Pump up the Staminaband. Only skimmed the list but didn’t see him.

[remus]

Paul Smitton did Pump up the Staminaband. Only skimmed the list but didn’t see him.

Good shout Jack, I've added him in https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

I've also added Leo Skinner for his ascent of Louis Left last year.

[remus]

Finley Wood joins the list with ascents of WADzilla and Godzilla Sit on consecutive days https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

Small correction, he actually had a day's rest in between doing these according to UKC (slacker  )

[highrepute]

Paul Smitton did Pump up the Staminaband. Only skimmed the list but didn’t see him.

Pretty sure pump up the staminaband is considered 8B+ by most.

[Andy B]

Paul Smitton did Pump up the Staminaband. Only skimmed the list but didn’t see him.

Pretty sure pump up the staminaband is considered 8B+ by most.

Shirley Pedigree Chum is at least 8B too?

[remus]

Paul Smitton did Pump up the Staminaband. Only skimmed the list but didn’t see him.

Pretty sure pump up the staminaband is considered 8B+ by most.

Cool, moved him up to 8B+.

Bit of a weird one, ideally it'd be good to avoid adding people for long travs as I dont think they're very comparable to up problems. I can't think of a good way of distinguishing between short and long travs though, so will keep people on the list for the moment.

[Doylo]

Paul Smitton did Pump up the Staminaband. Only skimmed the list but didn’t see him.

Pretty sure pump up the staminaband is considered 8B+ by most.

Shirley Pedigree Chum is at least 8B too?

Will be but everyone who’s done it have just said give it 8c+. I was messaging Smitt recently . Sounds like he’s getting keen again. Strong fingers that chap.

[T_B]

Same grade as Kaabah and you don’t even need a belay. No wonder it get so many repeats.

[Steve R]

I can't think of a good way of distinguishing between short and long travs

No doubt suggested before somewhere but we clearly need an ancillary 'grade density' (d) rating for boulder problems.  I'd suggest a scale of d0 through to d3 to provide optimal granularity.
d0 is where essentially all of the difficulty of the problem is accrued in a single move. Some examples: The Joker 8A d0.  The Ace 8B d1.  Weedkiller 7A+ d2.  Keen Roof 8A+ d2 (assuming it's d2 here, I don't really know but heard it's def 8A+ ). PUTSB 8B+ d3.  You get the idea.
the rounded climber should aim to build out similar grade pyramids across the d scale of course.

[tomtom]

Nice idea. You could also have the number of moves and the standard deviation of move difficulty. 😃

[Moo]

Martin Smith should be on for superman shirley ?

[benpritch]

Martin Smith should be on for superman shirley ?

And General Disarray