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32 Chee Dale (Read 2805 times)

mic_b

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32 Chee Dale
July 08, 2015, 10:27:15 pm
Thanks to Hayden's good job of cleaning I had a go at it this evening. Awesome route can get to the RH sloper (crux I think)  how do you get from this to the good LH hold? Then I was going little undercut for RH and then crimp for LH and in to gaston R'N'P side pull. Was a bit fierce but it goes is this what people do?

Great moves can't wait to get back on it.

kc

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#1 Re: 32 Chee Dale
July 09, 2015, 03:04:26 pm
Glad you like the route. It's always nice to hear good things about ones routes, especially when they required that extra effort to craft them into existence.

Anyway my sequence for the post crux moves sound the same as in LH good square block thing RH undercut that tilts slightly the wrong way, awkward feet manovers, LH crosses over to Gaston the ladybird, jump feet and go again to the flatty on Rosie & Peter.

A cool sequence, however/ unfortunately that is not how I think most people do it. I guess you have seen the photo of Ethan on that move.
http://i.ukc2.com/i/256634.jpg
He takes the small edge above the the undercut and crosses under then presses the sidepull on R&P.
Not sure it makes a vast amount of difference really.
As for the move off the sloppers I grabed a bit of shittness ( some sort of dinky pinch) intermediate with LH.
Hope that helps and good luck.

Paul B

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#2 Re: 32 Chee Dale
July 09, 2015, 08:44:03 pm
Thanks to Hayden's good job of cleaning I had a go at it this evening. Awesome route can get to the RH sloper (crux I think)  how do you get from this to the good LH hold? Then I was going little undercut for RH and then crimp for LH and in to gaston R'N'P side pull. Was a bit fierce but it goes is this what people do?

Great moves can't wait to get back on it.

I thought the crux was getting out of the end of it back into RnP! I wasn't convinced the drop knee beta for the start did anything for me other than put my knee at severe risk of injury!

mic_b

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#3 Re: 32 Chee Dale
July 09, 2015, 08:58:26 pm
Thanks KC nice to know my beta wasnt totally daft I'll have a look at the new way on Monday.

I found the drop knee way of getting the sloper to be pretty good for me. Yeah you're probs right as I haven't quite got from the sloper to the good hold for LH yet but from there to the top should go. It's just hard! 

Which way did you do it Paul B?

Cheers

Paul B

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#4 Re: 32 Chee Dale
July 09, 2015, 09:06:28 pm
Didn't finish it off (I can insert excuses here but I'll spare you) but simply toe on the obvious foothold seemed much safer than the drop-knee.

The move back into RnP I was crossing into the u/cut then using the footholds on RnP for my RH before getting to the better holds before the obvious line of weakness.

Ethan had some good beta regarding where to pinch.

haydn jones

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#5 Re: 32 Chee Dale
July 10, 2015, 01:06:13 am
Got this wired now did it from matched on the large undercut  above the 2nd bolt. Should have just gone from the ground! Oh well. When you next on it mic? I was thinking monday for me but if your about saturday evening it would be cool to get a catch on it...

mic_b

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#6 Re: 32 Chee Dale
July 10, 2015, 02:26:26 pm
Haha yeah you should of had it from the ground! Monday's the earliest I can get there unfortunately be at the crag from about 10 if you've not ticked it already 😁

haydn jones

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#7 Re: 32 Chee Dale
July 10, 2015, 03:36:16 pm
You already partnered up for monday?

 

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