Evolution however hasn’t got harder has it?
I always think of the waddage UK level as being 8c+ and 8B. To have done both is more impressive.
As a group we’re relatively shit now.
Quote from: cowboyhat on August 20, 2018, 11:52:53 pmEvolution however hasn’t got harder has it?Ted's got the full knowledge, but I believe at least one of the crux holds is noticeably worse than back in the day.
Quote from: cowboyhat on August 20, 2018, 11:52:53 pmAs a group we’re relatively shit now. Surely there are way more people climbing around and above 8c+ or 8B nowadays
I reckon that if anyone else had written that I'd assume they were taking the piss but that does strike me as the sort of thing you'd do!
Sorry Kingy, I've just realised my mistake, that should have said "that *doesn't* strike me as the sort of thing you'd do", no wonder you questioned it and hopefully clear from my later reply.
No problemo! What a saga with Carn Vellan etc, I've kind of given up on the whole thing now, life's too short!
Quote from: Kingy on August 21, 2018, 11:02:02 amNo problemo! What a saga with Carn Vellan etc, I've kind of given up on the whole thing now, life's too short!This may not be the right thread for it, and I could probably search for it, but can anyone point me towards a precis of this saga that isn't myopic? I haven't a clue where to start! Thanks
Quote from: Doylo on August 20, 2018, 10:34:37 pmI always think of the waddage UK level as being 8c+ and 8B. To have done both is more impressive.Unless the 8B was, did you mean Hubble?Quote from: cowboyhat on August 20, 2018, 11:52:53 pmAs a group we’re relatively shit now. Surely there are way more people climbing around and above 8c+ or 8B nowadays
Btw looking at the list; Robins has done loads of 8c+s, not just his own unrepeated route that is listed. The asterisk misrepresents his achievements. Maybe a number or something to denote how prolific they are? Ted, Jim Pope have also done several 8c+s for example. Solid at the grade. Oh hang on, will bosi is the only person credited with two routes. And who’s this guy McClure ‘claiming’ a 9b?
Robins climbed 8c+ and 8B every year from 2009-2014 before his motivation for redpointing started to wane and his Mrs started making him go to more dinner parties. Shame there’s not a nice convenient 9a for him to go at in Wales.
Quote from: Doylo on August 22, 2018, 07:00:00 amRobins climbed 8c+ and 8B every year from 2009-2014 before his motivation for redpointing started to wane and his Mrs started making him go to more dinner parties. Shame there’s not a nice convenient 9a for him to go at in Wales.As a non-resident of North Wales I have been consistently in awe of Robins since I started climbing. One of the best all round climbers the UK has ever had probably. E9, 8c+ (x lots), and 8B? Good effort.
Re steve Mac, I think the fa marker is pretty appropriate here. Not that I personally have any doubt about the grade, but it is the tradition that grades are based on concensus so a route with no concensus is more of an unknown than one with a lot of ascents.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on August 22, 2018, 09:29:31 amQuote from: Doylo on August 22, 2018, 07:00:00 amRobins climbed 8c+ and 8B every year from 2009-2014 before his motivation for redpointing started to wane and his Mrs started making him go to more dinner parties. Shame there’s not a nice convenient 9a for him to go at in Wales.As a non-resident of North Wales I have been consistently in awe of Robins since I started climbing. One of the best all round climbers the UK has ever had probably. E9, 8c+ (x lots), and 8B? Good effort.And he has a proper job.
Pedantic but it’s Megalopa not Megaloupa.
Good to add some clarity with a few notes/ additional routes etc Remus. I guess making the list comprehensive would be too big an undertaking. I'm personally not keen on the idea. I mean how many 8c's has McClure done? He says in his autobiography that he has lapped Mecca Extension 50 times!
Bumped into James Ibbertson yesterday. Apparently Josh (14) has done 8c+ and Jack (12) has done 8b+ during their euro trip of the last year. Amazing...No idea what routes they were