I hope to be back for more (either Elsa, lMdlM, or Miroir Tectonique) next week.
Miroir Tectonique was good! As it is new there were loose holds a bit through the entire routes, but lots of shiny bolts.
The route starts 50 m to the right of the common first pitch of
Elsa and
Lucifer.
The first pitch is easily identified by the large roofs that caps the 2nd pitch. Start on the plumb line of the left edge of the roof.
The 5th pitch in particular had very good climbing. Steep and sustained.
Hauling a bag works well. Pitch 10 ended with a traverse that required a small trick.
Pitch 12 was particularly loose, my wife broke no holds on the lead, I broke one hand hold and two feet. But the climbing is easy enough that it is possible to stay on for anyone having the slightest chance on freeing the crux pitch.
I fell on the last move of the crux pitch 13, after breaking another foothold. Oh well, if I would have had margin I would have been fine, but I didn't. The top part of the route doesn't get into the sun until almost 4pm, but we were pretty slow. Well hot in the sun.
Brillant decent on alpine meadows. Pic de Bure in the background.
I found no topo online, but the descriptions on camp to camp sufficed. The route doesn't cross any other route so just follow the bolts... Regardless, I made a topo, so now there's no excuse....