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UKB Power Club week 280 22nd to 28th June 2015 (Read 14571 times)

JackAus

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STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest
T: St Leonards. New stuff up to V5/6. Fingerboard session after. Starting to get sick.
W: Rest. No psyche for Sissy.
T: Alfords Point. No work and getting ill. No strength. Still managed to do 2 V7s (Stringybark Massacre and Love Gun Stand) and a V6 (Jetski Jerks). Good day. All things I'd tried back in summer and struggled on them all. Very pleased to finish them off.
F: Rest
S: Fear Factory. Couple new problems for me up to V5. Not really dry enough to jump onto 2000 Light Years. Will need to re-clean it and re-aquaint myself with the holds on rope before I attempt it over pads. Kind of dissapointed but my mate (who put it up 15 years ago) wasn't game to spot me, which is very understandable! Its a nightmare to spot!
S: Frontline. Short morning session. Lapped a couple of V5s to warm up, repeated Boogie Knights V7 and had a couple of attempts at Boogie Knights Original finish, gets V8 for a nasty top out. Nearly did it, feels pretty horrible though...


Pic:
Last hard move of Stringybark Massacre V7. Starts back under the roof and follows the flake out of the cave through the crux (around my left hand) then out. Get to the jug then insecure-ish, committing top.


Pako

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STG: One arm a campus rung on the BM 2000. Climb Remember to Forget V9 at Redbank which I'll try tomorrow. Do an Iron cross. Do a front lever for 10 seconds. Send some hard shit on the board.
MTG: Do a v10
LTG: Do a v10 by the end of the year really, if that happens soon, or if I send Remember to Forget quickly I might change this to v11, the problem is that there aren't really too many v11s in Queensland. Though if I could whip up a v11 board problem that would be good fun..

M-Thursday: Rest because of a cold and exams. Did pushups and occasional campusing on board
Friday: Very short board session before some shit parties, felt strong though surprisingly enough.
Saturday: Great session on the board, sent a v7/8 project, sent some moves that felt impossible a week ago, glad that I didn't get weaker over my little rest. Afterwards did a long antagonist and rings session, was good. Iron cross felt good, about the same as it was a couple weeks ago. Upped the weight on ring dips to 15kg, felt good. Did some ring butterflies, felt great. Anyone try these but have to use slightly bent elbows so as to avoid elbow pain? It makes them a bit easier but the twinge in the elbows wasn't too nice. I sort of fucked up my ordering of my antagonist exercises, for some reason reserving the ring muscles up and one arm pushups for last, which wasn't a good idea. Next time.
Sunday: Rest, body hurt after antagonist stuff. Tried a one armer on right arm, got basically all the way, chin over bar but couldn't touch shoulder to bar. Remembered that one arms < climbing, which made me feel better. Please forgive me pro-onearming UKB faction.

Overall strange week, happy that I am feeling strong on the board. Excited for outdoors tomorrow, sending a v9 would be bloody great.

jwi

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STG:
Getting better

If getting well
MTG:
Flashing a few non-vertical white boulderprobs in the gym.
Onsight one 8a or five 7c+'s this year. Preferably both.
Do something fairly challenging in Taghia in September.


Mon-Sun: rest


this is pretty much how my entire body looks like. Sorry for fb link. Be grateful if you can't se it, it's fairly disgusting...

Been diagnosed with :
Henoch-Schönlein's purpura
rocky mountain spotted fever
atypical eruthema migrans
rickettsiosis
erlichiosis
lyme
etc
...


Bottom line is that no one knows so far. But I seem to be getting better

And oh, yeah, I had the flu as well this week

All in all, not a great week for training

Progression:
Weight: 69-70 kg
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5
Overhaning whites flashed in gym: 0
« Last Edit: June 28, 2015, 01:35:22 pm by jwi »

kelvin

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Shit man - that looks rough. Take care of yourself fella  :(

iain

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Hope they figure out what it is jwi, take care.

tomtom

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!!!! JWI - hope thats easing up...

cha1n

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Yeh, that looks painful jwi, hope it sorts itself out soon. Is it itchy? I remember I had a similar rash when I had an allergic reaction to some tablets and had to roll around in rough towels for a few days to stop the itching.

M - Rest

T - WCJ Cornice. Had a brief play on The Free Monster (8a) but lots of the key holds were wet. Not sure if it's the one for me but will happily try it some more if it dries out. Had a play on Brachiation Dance (7b+) after, did all the moves quickly but was too tired to try and RP it. My endurance is so bad that I can't seem to get a boulder problems length up anything before getting pumped out of my mind.

W - Fingerboard AeroCap.

T - AeroPow Foot on Campus. 6 Sets. 3 sets of L hangs, 3 sets of knee tucks.

F - Attempted to do Fingerboard AeroCap but got halfway through before right elbow started hurting a lot. Think my body isn't happy with the quantity of fingerboarding i'm doing. Certain it's linked to the 3 finger drag position I'm using which I've not used much in the past. Could also be linked to doing hangs straight-armed but there seems to be mixed opinions on straight or bent, ahem.

S - Went to Chee Dale to check out The Spider (8a) on Plum Buttress. What an amazing line. I was actually pretty intimidated by the height of it, even if the lower section is straight forward. Definitely felt a bit scared to fall off at times but mostly when there was chances of hitting a ledge and it's quite tricky to get back on after as it's so steep. Dogged up to get the clips in up to the crux (only tried it up to the crux section) then had a few goes at the crux. Managed to hold the cut-loose swing for a second before getting confused and letting go (probably would have fallen anyway). Not really sure how close to doing the crux that is because getting your feet back on and going up to the next hold doesn't seem trivial. Can't believe how straight forward Gaz Parry makes it look, my partner cut loose on the left hand crimp instead of the sloper and seemed to think that was OK. Not sure if this is going to be the one I project the most, it ticks lots of boxes, lots of rests, it isn't crimpy but it is a bit of faff to work and the crux is quite conditions dependent being on slopey holds and it's only going to get hotter. It also gets afternoon sun so that could write-off evening sessions. I'd definitely go back to it if people were keen but might keep on looking at others and also have a second look at powerplant.

Got back from Chee Dale, went straight to the works to do lots of sets of core and some AeroCap before they closed.

S - Waiting for my body to stop complaining before heading to the works to do another million sets of core exercises and a low intensity fingerboard session.

That leaves me not completing a couple of my sets of core for this training week but I can live with that. Pretty psyched as I've got my first week off of training this coming week and the forecast looks good, so looking forward to at least 3 sessions out on rock. Might send an email over to Randall to see what he thinks about the elbow issues. It feels similar to elbow problems I've had in the past that were sorted out my doing a bunch of forearm extensor exercises but it's worth getting guidance as to whether my fingerboard technique is OK as I haven't really done it apart from the odd session here or there previous to starting the training plan.
 
« Last Edit: June 28, 2015, 05:03:11 pm by cha1n »

a dense loner

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That looks pretty much the same as what I had on my first magic wood trip jwi. Just woke up with it all over my body one morning before going, went to docs and he gave me some strong roids, said it looked like hives. I was basically out of my mind the whole trip, think it took about 2wks to all go

shark

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11.6-7

M. AM 10 degrees. Windy and rainy. 3 goes up AM. One putting clips in then the other two linking from Revelations belay to falling off just after the hard clip on the headwall. Much better performance than friday and engineered a couple of micro beta refinements. Did a spot of bouldering after with Paul Reeve on Bens,Undercut to Crimp and Rattle and Hump
T.Eve. Fingerboard. Had a good feeling from the start about the session and bettered last weeks session. Getting closer to equalling previous bests. Threw in some assisted one -arming too.
W. Eve. Adventurous and entertaining evening with SamT and Norton at Secret Crag Z i. Managed to fuck up the approach and ended up scrambling up a mossy band when a clump of moss came off. Carried on sliding down the steep bank below for 30feet before arresting the fall before it became serious. Eventually reached the others at the crag then discovered Id lost my keys. Retraced steps and found them. Dogged up a 7a+/b then we were rained off. Went to Rising Sun and dranking a lot on an empty stomach
T.
F.AM Tor. Cloudy weather. Felt fresh and psyched for a good go at Rattle and Hump. Even took a step ladder. Unfortunately struggled to get out to the holds on left let alone get higher. Think the crimp was a little greasier than Ive been used to so couldnt drag it effectively. At Least Nick struggled too. Decamped to Crag Z despite threatening clouds. Got on the 7a+/b again. Didnt flash so worked it a little and concluded that Tuesdays' sequence was the best one. First redpoint through the hard lower crux section but then a hold exploded above. Second redpoint was tired but got through the crux section and clawed way up to easyish finishing slabby wall. This time a larger flake exploded and I went 25 feet. Exciting. Had a top rope on a desperate 7b before heading home.
S. AM Joined rest of family for 5K Park Run but gave up before 2K with a sore foot. New running shoes required I think. Rest of day - Lots of gardening and moving stuff around. Set up my old bachar ladder in the garden and burnt eldest son off.
S. Noon. Fingerboard. Disappointing session. Couldn't match tuesday's performance.

Not sure whether to keep at it or ease up next week. See how I get on at the  Tor tomorrow
« Last Edit: June 28, 2015, 06:14:17 pm by shark »

the_dom

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this is pretty much how my entire body looks like. Sorry for fb link. Be grateful if you can't se it, it's fairly disgusting...

Been diagnosed with :
Henoch-Schönlein's purpura
rocky mountain spotted fever
atypical eruthema migrans
rickettsiosis
erlichiosis
lyme
etc
...


Bottom line is that no one knows so far. But I seem to be getting better

And oh, yeah, I had the flu as well this week

All in all, not a great week for training

Progression:
Weight: 69-70 kg
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5
Overhaning whites flashed in gym: 0

I had something that looked like this a few years ago - assuming it didn't itch, and wasn't viral - was some kind of dust mite bite that went away without any trauma after a few weeks.

Oldmanmatt

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That looks pretty much the same as what I had on my first magic wood trip jwi. Just woke up with it all over my body one morning before going, went to docs and he gave me some strong roids, said it looked like hives. I was basically out of my mind the whole trip, think it took about 2wks to all go
That may be the worst "why I was on 'roids" dit ever told...

Is it painful/itchy, jwi?
Hope it clears soon and is in no way Lyme related!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

the_dom

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A good week.

Mon: 40 min trail run & mobility
Tues: lunchtime weights - 5 x (DL: 5 x 110kg; kettlebell swings: 25 x 24kgs); afternoon - 40 min trail run
Wed: bouldering - did lots of good new problems and tried quite hard, followed up by one arm max hangs, core and mobility
Thurs: hangboard - CWP programme, followed by repeaters on the small BM edge and 35 deg sloper & core & mobility
Fri: treadmill intervals
Sat: bouldering - warmed up on a fantastic 7B that I haven't done in ages then spent some time on my 8A project that is starting to feel steady. Ended the day off with a first go repeat of a tricky 7B that felt utterly piss. Lovely. Finished off with repeaters on the small BM edge and 35 deg sloper when I got home.
Sun: bouldering - mileage day repeating quality problems up to 7C. Fantastic day of feeling light and climbing well. YYFY. Went home and did some one arm max hangs. Close to a one armer on my 2cm edge as a complete unintended by-product of the max hangs.

tomtom

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Some good weeks up there - and a horrible affliction (not sure what to call it JWI - heal fast pal..). Sounds like good progress Shark...

For me, a really fucking odd week...

M: Rest - had already rested on Sunday - hoping to have a big go at Jericho Road on tuesday...

T: Drove Hull > Manc stopping in Sheff on the way over as (a) I drive right through it and (b) forgot my boulderization pantalones - so picked up a £10 pair of Rodma specials from Decathlog. Then - rather strangely I decided to look at cars in Sheff on the Autotrader app (been looking at a few over the last couple of weeks) - went to see one - and ended up buying it. After protracted negotiations (they were very nice etc..) right down to the last £40 I felt drained - and sitting under Jericho Road felt like the last think I wanted to do, so went back home to Manc...

W: Couldnt climb - can't remember why - maybe work, maybe weather - anyway, didnt.

Th: Picked up car (yeh!) and stopped off at X on the way home.... warmed up well - connies were reasonable. Worked some new beta cutting out one move. Had one fairly crappy first effort (a sighter I think you might call it) then rested for 15 min and had a real go. Really super smooth through the first part. Hit every hold right. Got the roof slot and then felt my right arm powering out. Tried to push through it but RH uncurled just as I was getting my feet sorted and off. Sat shaking on my mat. Had a 20 min rest - half a bag of starmix - then tried again. Still shaking. Went home...

Fr: Pretty pissed off with JR now - time to move on and try something different so went to check out the Churnet for the first time. Its an awkward place to get to from Manc - ended up taking 1:20.. but once there what a great place! Lovely rock. It was sweltering though - low 20's and high humidity. Had sighted up Wrights Unconquerable as being a likely victim and set about it after warming up. I was climbing shit though - really bad. No confidence, no strength, no commitment. First moves felt horible that high foot lock feels really bunched for me - and I had ankle break fear.. - though once moved from it the footlock is fine.. Couldnt figure out what to do then so moved on. Tried some other 7A - then Sloper problem - got thoroughly spanked on both and ended up with a brace of 6A+'s. It just wasnt working... bah. Went home - which took 1:45 thanks to a wrong turn somewhere.. grr..

Sa: Went to Helsby. Climbed really really well.. did most of the harder problems I try there - did the traverse a few times and only got marginally pumped. Then repeated Bodgers Delight - the 7A+/B I'd done a couple of weeks back..


(Muenchner - the 'hop' I talked about and you commented on to rejig my position a couple of weeks ago is at 0:43)

Su: Rest

I dunno.. thems the breaks I guess - my own form is really hard to predict.. I need a break from JR - I'm sick of it now. Time for a new project and I'm not feeling any Peak lime love at the moment..

a dense loner

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I'd have demanded my money back OMM! I've never felt so weak, and that states got a lot of competition!

fried

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Looks grim Jwi, hope it clears up quickly.

M - Indoors, nice session considering the heat, polished a lot of blue probs off quickly, felt good.
T - Rest
W - Indoors, Arkose, I like this wall, it's small but friendly, more blues, and did my first red there; Another nice session. Very hot.
Th - Nothing
Fr - Planned to do a BM session, it was high 20s but I fancied a pop, tried the BM 5A workout, but I can't do the 2-finger hangs. Gave up. Far too hot.
S - Nothing
Su - Rocher canon, started running the blue circuit in reverse order, missed a few thuggy bits, but picked off some problems easily that had previously beaten me. Stopped for a go on 'Caprice' a red 6A prob, which was in the shade, worked the bottom section, but conditions are not in my favour, another for my list of problems to come back to. Middle section of blue circuit was a bit open, so i did some light blue probs at the beginning of the circuit, happy to tick off a couple of bits I've never managed before. Especially this,  I've never been able to get my foot on the starting hold before. http://bleau.info/canon/1806.html

Looks like temperature are going to hit the high 30s next week, so I might be having an enforced week off. Even worse my balcony garden is infested with vine weevils >:(

jwi

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Thanks, all! Don't want this to turn in to figure1.com and interrupt the nice flow of training entries.

Basically: Woke up wed. morn. with a small puncture on my pinky, hmm... insects bite? Foot got a little bit swollen and itchy. Thursday. Foot more swollen and itchy. At 6 o'clock my body just exploded in rashes. Looked like nettle rash. Scratchy and painful. Smeared cortison ointment on them. Foot looked like it was ready to be chopped off. Friday morning, went to doctor, got prescribed penicillin and anti-hist. Saturday, got worse. Went to emergency room in large university hospital. They where really impressed by my rashes, but thought the foot was run-of-the-mill infection. Took 7 blood samples. Put me on drip. 2 hours later, they came back said they understood fck all. Dermatologist came to see me, asked questions. (My french was so-so at this point.) Prescribed twice as much penicillin and 4 times as much anti-hist as previous doctor.

This week: Slowly got better. But got the flu on wedn. Hope to be able to start fingerboard in a few days.

Schnell

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Su - Rocher canon, started running the blue circuit in reverse order, missed a few thuggy bits, but picked off some problems easily that had previously beaten me. Stopped for a go on 'Caprice' a red 6A prob, which was in the shade, worked the bottom section, but conditions are not in my favour, another for my list of problems to come back to. Middle section of blue circuit was a bit open, so i did some light blue probs at the beginning of the circuit, happy to tick off a couple of bits I've never managed before. Especially this,  I've never been able to get my foot on the starting hold before. http://bleau.info/canon/1806.html

I remember doing this at Easter and thinking it was great. As were the other  blues in that little section.

STG: fix injuries, currently an a2 pulley strain on LH ring finger and collateral ligament damage on LH middle. progress on injury 1 and haven't hurt no. 2 in a while so going well on this goal.
MTG: 7C this winter

Two indoor sessions during the week on tues and thurs doing lots of easy stuff and trying the occasional harder problem. I'm working on having better core tension and being more dynamic, two things I think contribute to my injuries. Other weekdays I did some shoulder stability stuff at home as usual. Tomorrow I'm actually doing a session/assessment with a coach which will encompass this stuff. I'm obviously very interested to see what they think, though it will by necessity not include any finger strength testing.

I had planned a trip for the weekend but the forecast looked gloomy (although it turned out ok) so in the end:
S: gentle outdoor trad in nice weather, did an easy multipitch, faffed around and got stuck behind another group but got up it eventually. great day out. hopefull will get to fair head for more of this next weekend
S. indoors again. feeling drained and the wall was boiling. warmed up, had a couple of goes on things and went home again

lagerstarfish

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Set up my old bachar ladder in the garden and burnt eldest son off

good stuff

wad-worthy actions

 :strongbench:

nik at work

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Shit the bed with that looks proper rashly, get well soon.

STG - trad projects (and silly sport link up project)
MTG - 8c in Margalef
LTG - 9a
BHAG - Bruderliebe

M - BM session +20kg with 20s hangs down to middle finger mono's then +15kg for ring finger mono's then +10kg for Devils grip. Also started doing so laddering style stuff on two fingers and mono's (along with the usual front lever, lock off, poor form one armed type stuff). Good session.
T - batcave trying a link up project. It climbs the first half of Dougs 8a, then some tricky steep moves on small edges to move left into the crux of Gotham (8a). It's pretty sustained as the Gotham crux is usually just a couple of steep pulls on jugs after an almost hands of rest, whereas now there is a worse rest but it is several harder moves before then crux of Gotham and comes after a harder boulders start. So the overall hardest move is no harder but much more sustained. Anyway put the clips in and brushed, then had a burn. Got to the Gotham crux but ran out of steam. Then top-roped a friends project to warm down.
W - BM session as Monday, but better. Good session.
T - nothing
F - BM session as min and weds, again good session.
S - the Chasms, tried chasm project for the first time this year, last year I was finding this hard going and was expecting to struggle especially after a winter of grubifying and was planning a day of hanging on a rope and brushing stuff. This feeling was further compounded by the wet streak running down the line. However I actually had a great session, a go brushing it and cleaning it where I climbed all the moves inspections before brushing and chalking them up. Then a 'clean' top rope, didn't feel tired or pumped or anything despite the still dirty holds. However at half height it started raining and the head wall holds got wet,so my clean top rope was ruined when I skidded off the last hold. Definitely caused by the rain.
S - went back to the chasm route to check the condition of the mid height peg, which pulled out by hand, hmmmmm... However this left a slot that took a ball it 1, that pulled out by hand, hmmmm..... I might have spotted a thin crack which might take a small wire/rap but it needs mud cleaning out of it. If not the there is no gear until the last couple of moves, which makes it really very bold indeed... Came home and had a BM session like Mondays.

Pretty hardcore week this week. Glad the chasms have opened up again so the trad projects can get underway, but still Syked for the batcave. Also pleased to get back into the BM, it was all getting a bit stale but I seem to have reinvigorated the sessions a bit by upping the frequency and intensity, obviously not a long term strategy but good for a kick up the arse.

Muenchener

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@jwi: eek. Get well soon.

STG: redpoint 7a #3
     weight below 80kg: currently about 82
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine
            Muscle Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer),  Marmolada south face (Vinatzer Messner)

M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Probably not wise after bouldering yesterday, but I had a chance to meet up with a climbing partner I haven't seen for a while. Treated it as a mileage/active rest session: seven or eight routes up to 6a+
T: Wall, Freimann. Yesterday's moderate mileage for recovery seems to have worked; was much stronger today. Routes 5b 5c 6b 6c 6c 7b+ (proj bolt to bolt) 6b 6a
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Fourth day on, probably counterproductive from a physical training point of view. Was there mainly for social reasons: I need to work on building my pool of reliable climbing partners so that I don't find myself stuck on the rare weekends when I have no family commitments and the weather is good. Flailed weakly on half a dozen routes and then - the important bit - discussed summer alpine plans in the bar.
T:
F: Beastmaker max hangs as described by Steve Maisch
S: Knee/elbow/shoulder prehab & mobility
S: Cycling in the woods with M jnr. Three hours of aerobic base mileage / watching a 12 year old disappear into the distance on downhills.

kelvin

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Back to it - been suffering with bicipital tendonitis and prior to that, I was just climbing (or learning to) rather than training in any real sense. Need to be more focused again.

STG - (Aug) Salbit Sudgrat. A big mountaineering weekend on Aug bank hols. Start at Amphitheatre Buttress, some routes on Tryfan, Tennis Shoe and Cneiffen Arete before (the next day) starting in the Pass and finishing at the top of Snowdon via the face of Lliwedd. Mostly soloing but carrying a rope for certain pitches and certain climbs.
MTG - Tick some stuff in Spain
LTG - Salbit West Ridge and something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA.

Mon - Running
Tue - Rest
Wed - Running. Hill sprints.
Thu - Anston Stones. Shoulder just about usable but after a few goes on Blue Circles, it was all over. A good workout for the fingers after not climbing at all for two weeks.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Max Wall. Ran to the car park and back before I even started - not the best idea. Climbed like a donkey (hayfever, new contact lenses, sore shoulder, being shit) but had a go on the 7a to the left before we left - that was nice climbing! The 6s there are not so nice, so I basically need to get better and stronger to enjoy sports in the Peak.
Sun - Slept till 2pm, sore after yesterday.

So after two weeks of not being able to lift my arm above my head, I'm happy to have got out twice towards the end of the week. Didn't climb at all well but at least the top of the tendon is not too bad tonight. Hopefully I can keep on top of the tendonitis, work is the main issue and the fact I'd been trying the same sort of moves over and over indoors, trying to work out the exact limits of my wrist movement.
Fingerboarding is out for a while tho.



T_B

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Jiwi - hope you get better soon!

86Kg

M - School lunch. Mainly 50 degree. Got close to some benchmarks. Finished on the 7c+ circuit, falling 3 moves from the end. Best effort on this.
T - PM BWD and Badger Cove. Warmed up at BWD, repeating Red or Dead. Wimped out of final moves of Lack of Colour. Did first hard move of Badger x 3 pretty much every go, falling going for pocket. Best effort got fingers into it. Tried to refine beta, but think I just need to pull harder - left hand moving in the pocket, a breeze or cooler temps would help.
W - Foundry lunch. 4 x 10 mins on, 3 mins off on Bleaustone wall.
T - School lunch. Foot on campussing. 2 x 1 min on, 30 secs off x 10 with 10 mins rest. Struggled on last 3 reps.
F -
S - PM Turkey Dips Rocks. New crag tick! Met the criteria for a warm evening, but didn't think about tree cover - it was pretty dark. Did the sh*t 6a+ then jumped on Step on it, the line of the crag. Worked then sent 2nd go after pinging out of the sentry box on the first 1RP. Then did the ridiculously steep 7b+. Dave also did SOI - great! Pretty novel doing a Peak 7c+ without any small holds - SOI feels traddy with it's finger locks.
S -

Good week volume wise - started AeroCap training as want to cram some fitness prior to going to the Gower in August. Aim to do 2 sessions a week (maybe 3 this week), foot-on campussing feels particularly time efficient and more 'interesting' than my usual 10 mins on, 3 mins off routine at the Foundry. Made progress on Badger x 3, but feels like I could do with some cooler temps. Keen for more short, bouldery routes.

Three Nine

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The 7c to the right of SOI is also really good and more like actual crack climbing.

SA Chris

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STG, lose weight, get strong.

LTG Crush

M - Nowt, spent evening looking for holiday accommodation in Aviemore.
T - Late evening surf - tides meant it was only worth getting in water later - got in 9, out at 10:30. Slack waves meant a lot of paddling, but a couple of good waves as the tide tropped and most people had gone home, so only half a dozen or so in
W - weather pish - 3 hours bouldering indoors. Had an OK session, stuck to more vertical than steep as arms feeling a bit blown.
T - can't remember, I think nothing, but if anything was only some core, weights, etc.
F - weather pish, did some weights, core and a reasonably good fingerboard session; mostly repeaters and maz hangs
S - Morning kids swimming, afternoon nice weather, but "village fun day" meant no time to get away.
S- drove to Peterhead so missus could do half marathon, started off crap weather, but ended up roasting, beach with kids in afternoon, managed to get outside in evening, grabbed another 2 new problems from the teeth of the incoming tide, plus a couple of fillers, which are OK, but nothing special.

Weight - was down to 13 st 2 midweek, but hoffing big lunches from International Market outside front door of work on Thursday and Friday plus eating too much over weekend put it up to 13 st 41/2, like to be at 13st by end July.

Going to be a mad busy week at work too :(

fatneck

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Looks well grim jwi! Glad to hear it's getting better!

Can't remember my goals (think there's an issue here...)

Mon - Walk to and from work. Pilates class cancelled so ramped up the weights form last week. DL - 10@40kg, 5@90kg, 3@110kg; front,side and back arm raises 5x5@9kg; Bicep curls bar - 3x10@15kg; BO rows with 'bells - 3x10@30kg; Tricep Ext 3x10@30kg.
Tue - Walk to and form work. Bad DOMS from DL yesterday. Bike at lunch - 10k in 18 mins - new PB
Wed - Rest apart from walk to and from work.
Thu - Bus. Pilates - excellent session, crushed everything and felt like I could have carried on... Had planned to have an evening at Pex but forecast wasn't positive and went for a nice walk round West Kirby with the missus...
Fri - Walk to and from work. Weights at lunch after 5 minute rowing machine warm up. Front,side and back arm raises 1x5@9k and 1x5@15kg (hard); Bicep curls with 'bells - 2x10@20kg; BO rows with bar - 3x10@40kg; Clean and Jerk (tried these before but not seriously and think I was trying with too much weight = getting disillusioned) 10@20kg, 10@30kg, 1@40kg (hard).
Sat-Sun - Family stuff - too much food and beer.

Good week in the gym and showing decent results in terms of overall strength but no climbing. Might try and climb this week...

 

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