[cha1n]

Yeh, I probably described my assessment badly. I meant sustained after the crux, which is fairly low down. Which revolves around two small crimps. Not really what I'm looking for.

[Three Nine]

Yeh, I probably described my assessment badly. I meant sustained after the crux, which is fairly low down. Which revolves around two small crimps. Not really what I'm looking for.

  the whole thing is about 30 foot high. Trust Tom, stick with the programme, find a route you like. If you think they're all shit in the Peak (and you'd be right), go to Yorkshire (everyone else does!)

[nai]

Maybe give it a couple of weeks for the training effects to become apparent before trying any more otherwise you'll end up labeling them all inappropriate. Try something easier in the meantime, see how you get on with that, brachiation dance is about the easiest 7b+ around and a good yardstick for free monster, or stone the loach is a fairly bouldery and finger friendly 7c with a low crux (6Cish) and a bit of hanging on to finish.

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[HazelR]

Sneaking in late...
Spent less time at work this week, hurrah. Totally knackered from the past month or so however.

Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. Campus, short boulder.
Wedns: Rest.
Thurs: Rest.
Fri: Wall. Bouldering, mostly shouldery stuff.
Sat: Wall. More bouldering.
Sun: Wall. Short session - foot on campus / coffee drinking. DOMS from Friday.

This week -
Aim for 4x good RPs/day at the weekend.

[T_B]

Do people think i should add more sets? ie do 3 sets of 8x1x1, increase the time on the board? i.e. 2 x 8 x 90sec x 90 sec  or reduce the rest time more 2 x 8 x 1 x 30 sec.

Just did my first session on this exercise (my aim is to cram some fitness over the next 7 weeks, having been mainly bouldering/long boulder).

I did 2 sets of 1 minute on, 30 seconds off x 10 with a 10 minute rest between the two sets. Moved around slowly, including pausing/shaking out. About equal time across the 3 depths of rungs until the final 3 reps where I really struggled. Mega pumped at the end and felt like an incredibly time-efficient exercise. To me it feels like reducing the rest time will keep it as very high intensity AeroCap (plus reduce boredom threshold), whilst adding another set would help build up greater overall endurance? That's just what it 'feels' like having done it once.

[gme]

I have not managed to get climbing so far this week, just eating out and drinking so have not experimented. Alex kind of said the same as you that reducing the rest is the best option, this fits well with me in making the sessions nice an short as well. Will try that from next week.

Sounds like the general consensus is i need to climb slower as well. I dont move between rung types either but will do so, means you have to slow down to move your feet as well. Going to stick to 8 reps rather than 10 for now but try to do 3 sets. Even if i slow my rate down will be getting up to 700 ish moves.

Bizarrely i am quite excited about this.