UKBouldering.com

Re: benchmarks for the elderly (Read 7902 times)

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#175 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
February 08, 2023, 03:03:35 pm
That reminds me that I should add it here as well.

Jean-Pierre Bouvier opened Contre-courant a there-and-back traverse at a suggested grade of 9A traverse (approximately as physically hard as a 9a+route) at 65 years of age.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/jean-pierre-bouvier-a-contre-courant-jean-pierre-bouvier-another-vision/

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#176 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
March 31, 2023, 08:51:55 am
Delphine Chenevier has done her second 8b+ at 47 years of age. She did her first when she was 46

https://www.instagram.com/p/CqODNTSNml8/

I'm not up to date with the best performances of veteran women, but it is probably up there with the best?

monkoffunk

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 721
  • Karma: +60/-0
  • sponsored by 90% lindt and vitamin D
#177 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
March 31, 2023, 01:38:05 pm
Assumed update here was about Chris Sharma too!

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
#178 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
March 31, 2023, 01:49:57 pm
He’s not in anyway shape or form elderly. He’s at his peak.

monkoffunk

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 721
  • Karma: +60/-0
  • sponsored by 90% lindt and vitamin D
#179 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
March 31, 2023, 02:02:52 pm
Maybe so, but he made the list here for 9b+ aged 31

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#180 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 04, 2023, 02:03:28 pm
Akirawaku from Japan at 52 has repeated Birth of the Cool 8B+ and is now projecting an 8C+ !



Google translation from article in Up Climbing

The Japanese repeats Birth of the Cool in Shiobara

Akira Waku is a name that on UP Climbing we have already got to know and celebrate on a couple of occasions!

In 2018, at the age of 47, this Japanese climber arrived at the 8C boulder with the famous Babel line at Shiobara. In 2019, still here, he won the 8C+ of Hydrangea, another creature by Dai Koyamada, a world record considering his chronological age. To make his story even more incredible is the fact that Akira started climbing at the age of 35 without any previous physical preparation and as a complete self-taught, building his own gym…

Another four years have passed, and Waku has passed the fifty. Despite this, he continued to grind training and bouldering and always on this great roof of Shiobara on May 21st he returned to very high levels. The Japanese has in fact secured the fifth ascent of Birth of the Cool, which with its 8B+ could set another record at 52! Moreover, Akira has announced his next project: the 8C+ of Nexus.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +332/-2
#181 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
July 30, 2023, 11:52:44 am
I hesitate to imply that Nick Dixon is old, but I learnt today he's climbed E8 (or E9) every year since 1986 - that's 31 years.

Pretty certain Nick has extended this run another two years. I wouldn't bet against him stretching it to forty years.

The being bold bit of trad. skills fades with age for nearly everyone who isn't Nick Dixon.

Nick is clearly a secret ukb stalker as, right on cue, he repeated The Hollow Man the day after this post! (source: his FB page).

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal