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Friction Labs Chalk Review (Read 38599 times)

psychomansam

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#25 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 09:53:53 am
Friction labs claim to be better because they're 100% Mag Carb, but Moon Dust makes the same claim, so why pay more for Friction labs?

abarro81

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#26 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 10:08:19 am
Because the one time I used Moon chalk I was so convinced that my chalk bag was still damp from deep water soloing that I put it the in microwave.

psychomansam

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#27 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 10:15:02 am
Because the one time I used Moon chalk I was so convinced that my chalk bag was still damp from deep water soloing that I put it the in microwave.

How much does that comment earn you?

abarro81

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#28 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 10:16:20 am
A ban from the school room probably

Wood FT

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#29 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 10:25:37 am
 :lol:

moose

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#30 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 10:41:07 am
I've been using this recently. Unlike Mr Crouch (and one of the American reviews that I read), I don't particularly notice my hands actually being drier than normal, but they do feel less slippy if that makes sense. Stu briefly tried some of it and I think had a similar response.

I often get a similar feeling with liquid chalk - especially in humid conditions - slopers feel that little bit less tenuous and skin creeps less ("sticky damp in a bottle").  I've ordered a few sample bags of the Friction Labs stuff (from Climb Newcastle) to investigate how it compares.  At the moment, I'll pay handsomely for any edge - placebo or not (my current project has a last precarious feeling slap for a divot on a slopey top which is preying on my mind!).  I wonder if/when the full size bags will hit these shores - the cost of the big bags direct from the USA is massive - international shipping bumps up the price for a 500g bag to $70 (that's £44, for a bag that would cost around £6 if full of Moon / Metollius / DMM chalk)!

abarro81

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#31 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 10:47:27 am
They had full size bags when I bought it, maybe they've just run out?

psychomansam

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#32 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 11:23:37 am
I've been using this recently. Unlike Mr Crouch (and one of the American reviews that I read), I don't particularly notice my hands actually being drier than normal, but they do feel less slippy if that makes sense. Stu briefly tried some of it and I think had a similar response.

I often get a similar feeling with liquid chalk - especially in humid conditions - slopers feel that little bit less tenuous and skin creeps less ("sticky damp in a bottle"). 

Liquid chalk probably feels 'stickier' because it is. It tends to have pof in it.

moose

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#33 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 11:36:40 am
The dry5 stuff I use just lists magnesium carbonate, alcohol , thickener and scent as ingredients - no pof (unless it is regarded as a thickener).

dave

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#34 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 11:43:41 am
I had a bottle of the decathlon Simond stuff, don't think that had resin in.

rodma

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#35 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 12:27:16 pm
surely almost any substance thicker than alcohol could be considererd thickener, so could easily be rosin in there. it might be worth contacting some of the liquid chalk people to get them to specify what the thickener is because we, the caring ukb massif don't want anything other than the correct amount of chalk pollution on our crags.

i have dabbled with making my own liquid chalk in the past and you certainly need something to act as an emulsifier ( I know that's not the right word in this context), or stabiliser or summit like that, if not as a thickener.


SA Chris

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#38 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 12:48:40 pm
I suspect the "thickener" is the emulsifier / stabiliser - as without it, you would have a bottle of "thin" alcohol with chalky sediment at the bottom, rather than a creamy emulsion.  The stuff doesn't seem to transfer to the rock from the skin at all - never noticed any trace of a tacky residue.

psychomansam

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#39 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 01:05:12 pm
I questioned DMM on the issue a couple of years ago, after another thread on here:
Hi *****,
Apologies for the delay.
The DMM liquid chalk contains between 1 and 5% Colophonium (we can't give you the exact percentage).
It is used to for improving the drying.
Matt
******* **********
DMM International Ltd. Llanberis, Gwynedd, LL55 4EL | tel. +44(0)1286 872 222 | fax +44(0)1286 872 090

************@dmmwales.com | www.dmmwales.com

Registered in Wales number 2040257

fatneck

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#40 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 03:49:21 pm
Quote from: 8b Crouch
The way to go is warming up/brushing/cleaning with cheap block chalk and saving the good shit for redpointing.

Aha! I did wonder why you'd stopped using the chalk bucket and starting using a baggy of other chalk on Saturday!

SA Chris

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#41 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 05:17:43 pm
UKB Bulk buy?

petejh

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#42 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 06:27:28 pm
I'm in

rodma

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#43 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 24, 2015, 06:59:24 pm
I questioned DMM on the issue a couple of years ago, after another thread on here:
Hi *****,
Apologies for the delay.
The DMM liquid chalk contains between 1 and 5% Colophonium (we can't give you the exact percentage).
It is used to for improving the drying.
Matt
******* **********
DMM International Ltd. Llanberis, Gwynedd, LL55 4EL | tel. +44(0)1286 872 222 | fax +44(0)1286 872 090

************@dmmwales.com | www.dmmwales.com

Registered in Wales number 2040257

Yeah pof in different percentages depending on the manufacturer is what I expected. There's a fine line between making your product better than your rival's and pissing off the consumer when they find out what the secret ingredient is. They certainly don't allow liquid chalk at certain Paris walls and this may be why

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#44 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 25, 2015, 07:59:21 am
I'm keen for putting into a bulk order. Was thinking about it a couple weeks ago.

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk


dave

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#45 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 25, 2015, 09:02:59 am
I questioned DMM on the issue a couple of years ago, after another thread on here:
Hi *****,
Apologies for the delay.
The DMM liquid chalk contains between 1 and 5% Colophonium (we can't give you the exact percentage).
It is used to for improving the drying.
Matt
******* **********
DMM International Ltd. Llanberis, Gwynedd, LL55 4EL | tel. +44(0)1286 872 222 | fax +44(0)1286 872 090

************@dmmwales.com | www.dmmwales.com

Registered in Wales number 2040257

Yeah pof in different percentages depending on the manufacturer is what I expected. There's a fine line between making your product better than your rival's and pissing off the consumer when they find out what the secret ingredient is. They certainly don't allow liquid chalk at certain Paris walls and this may be why

I suspect the reason some walls don't allow it is more to do with folk spilling it on the floor, those bottles can tend to over-quirt if you're not careful, and I imagine it's a bugger to get out of carpets etc, and looks a mess. From a point of view of reducing chalk use walls aught to be in favour of it.

I also suspect the reason some resin is in there in such a negligible quantity is its more to do with getting the chalk to stick to your hands than anything. If its was designed to actually make your hands sticky then it fails miserably.

It does what it does - sticks a fine base layer of chalk onto the skin, and in my experience nothing more. Any perception by folk of it making hands sticky I can only assume comes from not letting it dry fully before climbing.

There's clearly a huge difference between using a pof rag, and using liquid chalk with a miniscule amount of resin in with a lack of any tangible adhesive properties (and hence no real cheating effect, and no pof-style detrimental impact on the rock surface). If folk are twitchy about using any product which contains the sticky excretion from trees then I look forward to everyone renouncing use of rubber-soled rock shoes.

SA Chris

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#46 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 25, 2015, 09:05:35 am
Isn't it all synthetic rubber now?

dave

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#47 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 25, 2015, 09:17:44 am
Isn't it all synthetic rubber now?

No idea, I'm not a rubber expert. The rest of the points still stand though.

psychomansam

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#48 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 25, 2015, 09:34:33 am
I questioned DMM on the issue a couple of years ago, after another thread on here:
Hi *****,
Apologies for the delay.
The DMM liquid chalk contains between 1 and 5% Colophonium (we can't give you the exact percentage).
It is used to for improving the drying.
Matt
******* **********
DMM International Ltd. Llanberis, Gwynedd, LL55 4EL | tel. +44(0)1286 872 222 | fax +44(0)1286 872 090

************@dmmwales.com | www.dmmwales.com

Registered in Wales number 2040257

Yeah pof in different percentages depending on the manufacturer is what I expected. There's a fine line between making your product better than your rival's and pissing off the consumer when they find out what the secret ingredient is. They certainly don't allow liquid chalk at certain Paris walls and this may be why

I suspect the reason some walls don't allow it is more to do with folk spilling it on the floor, those bottles can tend to over-quirt if you're not careful, and I imagine it's a bugger to get out of carpets etc, and looks a mess. From a point of view of reducing chalk use walls aught to be in favour of it.

I also suspect the reason some resin is in there in such a negligible quantity is its more to do with getting the chalk to stick to your hands than anything. If its was designed to actually make your hands sticky then it fails miserably.

It does what it does - sticks a fine base layer of chalk onto the skin, and in my experience nothing more. Any perception by folk of it making hands sticky I can only assume comes from not letting it dry fully before climbing.

There's clearly a huge difference between using a pof rag, and using liquid chalk with a miniscule amount of resin in with a lack of any tangible adhesive properties (and hence no real cheating effect, and no pof-style detrimental impact on the rock surface). If folk are twitchy about using any product which contains the sticky excretion from trees then I look forward to everyone renouncing use of rubber-soled rock shoes.

http://rvproj.com/2012/11/30/a-review-of-liquid-grip-the-new-liquid-chalk/#sthash.k7aOj7pU.dpbs

If it sticks to your hands, then it stand to reason that it'll stick into the grain of the rock as well.

a dense loner

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#49 Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
June 25, 2015, 09:51:14 am
Don't use it then

 

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