[Rhys]

Went yesterday- very impressed with the place: plenty of proper climbing to be found (classy old-school, technical problems on immaculate rock) with excellent landings and a fine outlook. Not a huge amount to do but what there is is very good. The place complements the Pont Y Gromlech slabs- similar rock and angle. I'm biased towards this type of bouldering but I reckon that it's well worth a visit.

Rating:
 :up:  :up:  :up:  :up:
(Of a possible 5)

[dontfollowme]

Are there any photos about?

[Pantontino]

There is one close up shot of yours truly in the guide, but apart from that: jack. I would like to get some shots here, as there is plenty of photogenic/semi highball stuff.

Despite the fact that it is about 5 minutes walk from the Cromlech, nobody ever goes there - funny old world. :roll:

[Fiend]

Is this in the bible?? Forgive me but I can't remember!

[Rhys]

Aye, 'tis. Does anybody (i.e. Pantontino) know what the score is with cleaning there? I didn't have a close look but some of the dirty walls and slides look like they might be good if they had a clean (and some holds). Cheers

[Doylo]

Rhys did you try si's problem, 'Mr you've been sandbagged Mr'  :wink:  :D

[Pantontino]

There are definitely a few interesting, unclimbed highball lines here. I would be tempted to check them on a rope, ridiculous as it sounds - you never know what skiddy horrors might be waiting on the top outs.

I don't believe that wire brushes are necessary, just get yourself a decent nylon brush and some tough cotton cloth for rubbing away the grime.

Oh, and as far as I'm concerned, Mr, you're on fire, Mr is definitely harder to do than some poncy Fr 8a!

[Rhys]

No, I didn't get on it- I think I'd have to work something like that for a while at the moment so I'll save it for Winter (looks quite similar in style to the Barrel traverse).

How's it going with you? Have you nailed Pit of Hell? Good effort on Spidey in the cave also! Take care :D

[Doylo]

everythings good (apart from shitty conditions). aye did pit of. Not bouldering as much now cos i'm going to the states for three months and don't wanna burn out so am clipping bolts instead. Will be visiting your new digs when the owen moves in.

'Mr problem' is as hard as the barrel, more powerful and less pumpy though. Have a gud un.

[Houdini]

Back through the mists of time....

'Mr problem' is as hard as the barrel, more powerful and less pumpy though.

I disaggree - It's easier than the Barrel by some distance - and I think it's a much better problem with consistently interesting moves, unlike the B' Traverse.  One of the sweetest travs to go down in the Pass for ages (inc. The Big Smile :D ).

I boulder in this spot as often as I can.  Emyrs' Arete is fuckin' rad.  Envy too.

[Pantontino]

Well, I spent over a dozen sessions trying Mr you're on fire, Mr before I did it, whilst the Barrel Traverse went down in 2 sessions. Basically I think Mr is easier for the shorter climber.

As for The Big Smile, the penny hasn't dropped yet. It will do soon. Even grumpy Katz (after his 'multi-day' ascent) was moved to describe it as one of the best problems he had ever done.

[Houdini]

Do you like to Watch?



I like to watch.  And I've got to say that watching Hocking get shocking on that fat bastard of a problem - throwing in the usual array of heels, toes, slaps, stax, and other bo-diggidy weird-shit - was one of the best bits of climbing I've seen.

It was a beautiful moment which for good or ill I was forced to savour: A few days before I'd spazzed a nerve in my neck something chronic trying to out-hock the stack on Little Miss DT  (I couldn't feel some of my RH fingertips for months after).

[Houdini]

Are there any photos about?

The very best photo I've seen of a problem in this area hangs on Nodders' wall.    His good self on Lizard King, in tasty B & W.

[Pantontino]

I'd forgotten about that; taken by CJD if memory serves me right.

[SA Chris]

Not bouldering as much now cos i'm going to the states for three months and don't wanna burn out so am clipping bolts instead.

Does this mean the sequel to WCG : West Coast Grimps will be released, come late summer?

[Houdini]

There is one close up shot of yours truly in the guide

For a mondo snap, I hate this photo, it shows little more than your wild-eyed mug, Si!   How he could forego the opportunity to photograph the brilliant heel/toe thang is a mystery to me.

I'd like to petition for the inclusion of Dave on Lizard King to be in the new guide.  It's one helluva hard and pure, beautiful line.  I guess that when Dave 1st saw it he must of thought it was a gift from Heaven.

It's the wild hair a-blowin'-in-the-breeze that makes it for me.  Cracking photo.  And from CJD too, how he managed to overcome the DT's and keep that camera still is a question I can't answer! 

To CJD!   Hear-hear!

[SA Chris]

Double d'oh, fucking slow.

Amazing how these things get resurrected and wander around like frikkin zombies.

[Houdini]

That's what threads do, Chris.




They unravel.