[Luke Owens]

Heading up to Malham for 2 days this Thursday/Friday. Wondering what recommendations you guys have for stuff in the low 7's?

My preference of style is crimpy and technical. I prefer long routes but short cruxy ones are fine as long as they're not steep. I'm used to climbing on the Orme and Dinbren (Which I've heard can be a bit similar to Malham)

I've been once before and did Rose Coronary.

A couple of routes I've heard are good are:

Consenting Adults
Yosemite Wall
Appetite
Free and Even Easier
Taking the Space
Seventh Aardvark

I'd love to do Space Race but I'm not sure I can be bothered trying to redpoint something at my limit as I've heard it's pretty hard.

Also, anyone know anywhere good to sleep in a car overnight? Don't want to annoy anyone.

Cheers

[shark]

Those are the best options at the grade. Trouble is they are either short and technical or long and thuggy. All things considered Free and Even Easier is the probably the best choice.

[bigtuboflard]

Those are the best options at the grade. Trouble is they are either short and technical or long and thuggy. All things considered Free and Even Easier is the probably the best choice.

been an age since I last did it but a nice route and from memory not as polished as Consenting Adults

[petejh]

Appetite is good and a bit atypical for Malham (not that I've done much) in that it's mostly good holds and straigthforward to read, a little bit fitnessy if anything.
Taking the Space also very good and you can rest your way up much of it, until you can't. I messed up trying to go direct through the top overlap - it loops around out right then back left.
Consenting is an horrendous shiny sandbag on first acquinatance but with the beta quickly becomes a minor joy to climb and not difficult. Not a good choice for a 7a o/s climber to try to onsight unless they want their ego denting.
7th Ardvaark - didn't like this but only had a brief look as a warm-up on toprope. Didn't seem like anything special, like a harder version of Consenting that doesn't get any better or easier with beta?
Against the Grain looks good and like a trikier version of Appetite.

Consenting/7th will be in the sun until early afternoon, Taking the Space/Appetite/Yosemite Wall will be in shade earlier. Everything feels nails in the sun.

Have pm'd you ref overnight parking

[Will Hunt]

Hi Luke,

I don't sport climb a huge amount but got out a little bit last summer. I'm operating at a similar place in the grade spectrum and I enjoy Troller's Gill MUCH more than I enjoy Malham. The routes are really good, well bolted, and much less polished than Malham. If its going to be hot then that could be a better bet.

If you go to Malham on day one and don't get on with it, I would make Trollers your go to. There is a good PDF guide by Clarkey, Baker etc knocking around. Let me know if you can't find it and I will hook you up.

[Luke Owens]

Cheers guys, I guess Malham comes into it's own more when climbing 7c and above.

I've ordered the new Northern Lime guide so hopefully that will arrive before I go. I don't supposed Kilnsey is any better than Malham in the low 7's either?

Trollers Gill sounds cool and I will definetly keep it in mind. Any other routes anywhere in the low 7's that I shouldn't miss, as I'm up that way?

[Wood FT]

Cheers guys, I guess Malham comes into it's own more when climbing 7c and above.

I've ordered the new Northern Lime guide so hopefully that will arrive before I go. I don't supposed Kilnsey is any better than Malham in the low 7's either?

Trollers Gill sounds cool and I will definetly keep it in mind. Any other routes anywhere in the low 7's that I shouldn't miss, as I'm up that way?

WYSIWYG (crimpy), Sticky Wicket (pumpy) and Smooth Torquer (short & steep) at Kilnsey. All bloody brilliant!

What Will said about Trollers Gill is good Beta

[Richie Crouch]

Any other routes anywhere in the low 7's that I shouldn't miss, as I'm up that way?

Cruisin' for a bruisin' at yew cougar is a great route, spoiled minorly by the walk back out!

[SA Chris]

Troller's Gill

Probably see Sloper there too.

Also I suspect it will be a bit more chilled out and quieter than Malham too.

[Luke Owens]

Just got hold of the new Yorkshire Lime guide this morning. Loads of crags I didn't even know existed. Trollers Gill sounds pretty cool as it's got some 3 star 7a's, might try it out. I've got full days so I guess it's possible to go to both in a day?

[petejh]

  It's a Rockfax - full of 3 star routes and makes crags such as Trollers look like Céüse.

[Teaboy]

It'd make more sense to go to Trollers and Kilnsey on the same day. Two of those 7as deserve 3 stars and there are other excellent routes.