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Body Machine (Read 15751 times)

petejh

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#25 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 10:38:29 am
I'm sure that's all bollocks, what's needed is the desire to burn someone off. My mates close to doing it, I can't have that, so i'm reinvigorated. C'mon, burn me off.

I've done it one legged - whilst it was wet, with a stuffed parrot on my shoulders. Beat that!

Are you talented training and dress-up wad Tom Randall?

ChrisC

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#26 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 11:35:34 am
No one has mentioned the rest in the break? If you are getting pumped on the top it's probably worth spending some time finding?

It was a while ago but I remember a really good right foot jam wrapped round the back of something in the break and LF on a sloping black foot hold that meant I could get a no hands rest. This was very core intensive and slightly scary, but with the addition of an alternating hand it was good enough to recover fully.

Johnny Brown

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#27 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 11:58:46 am
I spent twenty minutes in that position once and still couldn't do the next bit. Waste of fucking time.

Wood FT

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#28 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:03:59 pm
No one has mentioned the rest in the break? If you are getting pumped on the top it's probably worth spending some time finding?

It was a while ago but I remember a really good right foot jam wrapped round the back of something in the break and LF on a sloping black foot hold that meant I could get a no hands rest. This was very core intensive and slightly scary, but with the addition of an alternating hand it was good enough to recover fully.

I'd sacked that off as I just couldnt understand how people were getting their legs so deep into the crag, i'll have another look tonight and someone else mentioned taking a jumper up with you to wrap round your leg. Currently just doing a Gresham on the jugs with the occasional heel/toe.

Wood FT

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#29 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:05:34 pm
Also, I think it's terrifying leaving my leg in like that :(

cheque

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#30 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:10:35 pm
doing a Gresham

'Scuse my ignorance, but what does this mean (in this context)?

ChrisC

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#31 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:20:52 pm
Also, I think it's terrifying leaving my leg in like that :(

That's a fair point. But it felt OK when you got the position right. Think it was alternating between a jug and a jam for the hands either side of a pillar in the break. RH probably quite close to your RF.


kc

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#32 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:25:04 pm
Guy you need to speak to Stone. He has spent more time in that break than anyone x 2.

shark

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#33 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:25:15 pm
No one has mentioned the rest in the break? If you are getting pumped on the top it's probably worth spending some time finding?

It was a while ago but I remember a really good right foot jam wrapped round the back of something in the break and LF on a sloping black foot hold that meant I could get a no hands rest. This was very core intensive and slightly scary, but with the addition of an alternating hand it was good enough to recover fully.

I'd sacked that off as I just couldnt understand how people were getting their legs so deep into the crag, i'll have another look tonight and someone else mentioned taking a jumper up with you to wrap round your leg. Currently just doing a Gresham on the jugs with the occasional heel/toe.


Shaking out with a vertical fist jam helps give your fingers a rest alternated with a jug works well for me. Fist jam a bit uncomfortable but not painful. Feels hard to recover to begin with. When fit I can get virtually everything back. 

iain

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#34 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:46:35 pm
Also, I think it's terrifying leaving my leg in like that :(
Me too :no:

Shaking out with a vertical fist jam helps give your fingers a rest alternated with a jug works well for me. Fist jam a bit uncomfortable but not painful. Feels hard to recover to begin with. When fit I can get virtually everything back. 
I've tried that and couldn't get a decent jam to pain ratio, could it be hand size dependent or should I just man up?

tomtom

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#35 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:52:36 pm
I'm sure that's all bollocks, what's needed is the desire to burn someone off. My mates close to doing it, I can't have that, so i'm reinvigorated. C'mon, burn me off.

I've done it one legged - whilst it was wet, with a stuffed parrot on my shoulders. Beat that!

Are you talented training and dress-up wad Tom Randall?

No chance - all that perverted crack climbing? Thats deviant ;)

shark

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#36 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:57:23 pm
I've tried that and couldn't get a decent jam to pain ratio, could it be hand size dependent or should I just man up?

Worth experimenting with as it is painful if you get it wrong. Its not a true fist jam because your wrist is in a constriction in the break which opens out at the back where your hand is so you are mainly resting by pulling against the base of your hand below the thumb which means you dont need to squeeze hard.

Wood FT

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#37 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:01:41 pm
doing a Gresham

'Scuse my ignorance, but what does this mean (in this context)?

"hang from straight arms and squat"

- one of his coaching videos

Johnny Brown

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#38 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:07:48 pm
I found all the jams pretty uncomfortable, leg and fist. The problem is there isn't a decent foothold.

Wood FT

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#39 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:13:08 pm
Guy you need to speak to Stone. He has spent more time in that break than anyone x 2.

I'll ask him, cheers

Shaking out with a vertical fist jam helps give your fingers a rest alternated with a jug works well for me. Fist jam a bit uncomfortable but not painful. Feels hard to recover to begin with. When fit I can get virtually everything back. 

I think this must be what Dom Lee does, had a scout around for it last week, is it quite deep at the cruddy back? I felt like a vet with their arm in a cow and the mess to show for it

iain

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#40 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:19:01 pm
Worth experimenting with as it is painful if you get it wrong. Its not a true fist jam because your wrist is in a constriction in the break which opens out at the back where your hand is so you are mainly resting by pulling against the base of your hand below the thumb which means you dont need to squeeze hard.
Ah, ok thanks, I'll try again.

I felt like a vet with their arm in a cow and the mess to show for it
;D

Johnny Brown

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#41 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:33:29 pm
Elbow deep I think, on the right. The cow analogy is about right.

Wood FT

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#42 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:36:31 pm
Ta. Elbow Deep huh, sounds like a spinal tap album

nai

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#43 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 05:45:13 pm
The way most are talking about feels too stretched/powerful, I'm 5.6+ with the wrong hair to compensate.

Good work putting DMC's advice to work so quickly ;D

Just had first session on this, bulge seemed to come together pretty quickly - LH crimp, RH poor match, go again for RH crimp, LH match, LH to next crimp but the one on the right, RH to pockety thing, Clip, shuffle along.

Break rest felt fine just holding the jugs on the good foothold, putting a foot in didn't seem to work, fisting a cow sounds worth a try though.  Got quite a decent shake post rockover with LF on the rockover foothold and at the undercuts before the final bulge too.

There's a dry streak on the start now, was that there recently?

mrjonathanr

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#44 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 08:16:11 pm
The right foot just needs to find the right position in the break- not too far in, point toes a bit left and lean back effectively jammed between instep and bottom of calf. Place your left foot on a hold and lean right back, jams and cow orifices not required.

You can leave a rag there to cushion it if you like but it's such a good rest I would recommend you persist till it clicks.

Boredboy

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#45 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 10:53:52 pm
  :agree:

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#46 Re: Body Machine
June 05, 2015, 07:37:50 am
Hi there,
I had a really nice sequence for the bulge if it helps.
I go lh to to the right most of the first two obvious crimps,
then grab a less obvious poor crimp in my right,  to the right and up a little of the other hand,
Then put my heel on the left of the other good crimps and rock over and sit hard on it.
Then you can easily go left hand all the way up to the best slot(which usually ends up in the right if
Not,  making it pumpy  up there).then place right foot wide on good foot,  clip and chill as you're in balance.
Also for the rest,  when I got there I just shoved my foot in further than felt natural and I was hands off and quite comfortable.

iain

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#47 Re: Body Machine
June 05, 2015, 09:06:08 am
Good work putting DMC's advice to work so quickly ;D
Comes naturally  :whistle:

Hi there,
I had a really nice sequence for the bulge if it helps.
I go lh to to the right most of the first two obvious crimps,
then grab a less obvious poor crimp in my right,  to the right and up a little of the other hand,
Then put my heel on the left of the other good crimps and rock over and sit hard on it.
Then you can easily go left hand all the way up to the best slot(which usually ends up in the right if
Not,  making it pumpy  up there).then place right foot wide on good foot,  clip and chill as you're in balance.
Also for the rest,  when I got there I just shoved my foot in further than felt natural and I was hands off and quite comfortable.
I wind up with the left hand in the slot anyway but I'll give this a bash. By "first two obvious crimps" do you mean to two on the lip of the bulge, (the right one wouldn't be good enough for me there,) or the pair a few feet higher when your feet are in the break?

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#48 Re: Body Machine
June 05, 2015, 08:35:55 pm
Hi,
Yeah on the lip of the bulge.  My left heel went on what I remember being the best of all the crimps up there.
I hope I haven't confused you,  as I may be remembering it skewed. But defo crimp,  crimp ( maybe right hand went again to the poor crimp)  left heel up,  lh slot, rf wide,  rh side pull.
Do you happen to know if the bottom wall there is dry yet?
Cheers,
Jim. 

nai

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#49 Re: Body Machine
June 05, 2015, 09:05:51 pm

Do you happen to know if the bottom wall there is dry yet?
Cheers,
Jim. 

It wasn't yesterday, couple of dry streaks emerging but still lots of water seeping out, Mr Sharpholds happened by and seemed to think that a couple of weeks dry weather might be required before it dried fully.

 

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