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Body Machine (Read 15750 times)

Wood FT

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Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 10:14:35 am
Can anyone share their beta for the crux bulge?

Currently using what feels like a very scrappy sequence of moves up the 'campus rails' then jumping feet high over the lip above the draw (scary). This is quite powerful and I'm wilting here becuase of this. Keen to hear different sequences for both hands and feet.
(I'm 5'7 with the right type of haircut)

Cheers,

Guy

iain

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#1 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 11:31:59 am
I can remember the gist, not so good on the details.

From mid crimp pair bring lf high (maybe onto first crimps and possibly smearing somewhere with the right!?!) and cross lh into the good top crimp/pocket, then unwinding and moving rh to the first good hold right along the bulge. It's fine to sort out the feet and move on from there.
Getting the foot high and crossing is powerful, but less powerful than the alternatives we thought. (mate did the route, I wilted)

I had a idea about using an undercut out right from the mid-crimps but never got a chance to find out whether that was just a works-in-a-dream sequence.

shark

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#2 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 11:53:36 am
Bit vague but... big reach up to first crimp with LH then match it RH RF into break RH up to next edge then maybe RF onto foothold in scoop near bolt (or maybe for next move) then RH again to next slot LH to crimp just vacated and clip with LH crossing under Right Arm a bit out of balance.

Its basic and powerful and pumpy so not sure how much refinement is possible and the clip is a bit scary.

T_B

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#3 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 12:00:40 pm
This is quite powerful and I'm wilting here becuase of this.

I always used to think that it was very top end 7c before the tree went. I used to train on it and never had anything other than a v powerful sequence over the bulge. I do remember for the move rightwards once you're over the bulge and getting into balance, getting your right foot out right/below you on a vaguely hidden big slopey low foothold being helpful.

Wood FT

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#4 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 12:04:16 pm
Bit vague but... big reach up to first crimp with LH then match it RH RF into break RH up to next edge then maybe RF onto foothold in scoop near bolt (or maybe for next move) then RH again to next slot LH to crimp just vacated and clip with LH crossing under Right Arm a bit out of balance.

Its basic and powerful and pumpy so not sure how much refinement is possible and the clip is a bit scary.

Matching the first crimp sounds good, was using the shite one next to it. Currently using the scoop near the clip as you've said, saw some ticked black feet under this and wondered if I was being a bit basic. I'm sure i'll find the clip exhillirating if I get get it done..

I can remember the gist, not so good on the details.

From mid crimp pair bring lf high


interesting!

Quote

I had a idea about using an undercut out right from the mid-crimps but never got a chance to find out whether that was just a works-in-a-dream sequence.

I've felt around with this, mainly just used it to steady myself when pulling in off the bolt on the dog, maybe it's just from that scenario?

Cheers all, best Peak route I've been on and feels savage for 7c even from the break!

Wood FT

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#5 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 12:05:27 pm
This is quite powerful and I'm wilting here becuase of this.

I always used to think that it was very top end 7c before the tree went. I used to train on it and never had anything other than a v powerful sequence over the bulge. I do remember for the move rightwards once you're over the bulge and getting into balance, getting your right foot out right/below you on a vaguely hidden big slopey low foothold being helpful.

yep got that bit sorted, space walking! Thanks.

shark

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#6 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 12:11:28 pm
Bit vague but... big reach up to first crimp with LH then match it RH RF into break RH up to next edge then maybe RF onto foothold in scoop near bolt (or maybe for next move) then RH again to next slot LH to crimp just vacated and clip with LH crossing under Right Arm a bit out of balance.

Its basic and powerful and pumpy so not sure how much refinement is possible and the clip is a bit scary.

Matching the first crimp sounds good, was using the shite one next to it.

Ah sorry - that's what I do. Forgot there were two holds though they are very close.

 


iain

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#7 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 12:19:27 pm
Quote
Quote
I had a idea about using an undercut out right from the mid-crimps but never got a chance to find out whether that was just a works-in-a-dream sequence.
I've felt around with this, mainly just used it to steady myself when pulling in off the bolt on the dog, maybe it's just from that scenario?
Probably, just something I wanted to keep in mind next time I got on it.

Johnny Brown

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#8 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 01:09:35 pm
I could never do that bit when I was at all tired either. I gave up, it's too shit to waste time on.

abarro81

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#9 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 01:13:00 pm
I gave up, I'm too shit to climb good routes so I'll just climb short things.
« Last Edit: June 03, 2015, 01:27:41 pm by abarro81 »

Wood FT

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#10 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 01:13:27 pm
yeah but if you keep on doing it and doing it and doing it then you'll do it, that's still praxis too :)

it's too shit to waste time on.

y'know with our matching diets and love for the lingering gritstone evenings I thought I was getting to know the real Johnny Brown, and then you gone and say a thing like that aint cha.

Johnny Brown

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#11 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 01:31:36 pm
I think the climbing is quite good up to the break, and the last few moves are okay, but that bit is shit. Obviously drilled/ chipped holds.

I'm way ahead of you anyway, Dave MacLeod says positive thinking is negative. So you need to hate it right?

Wood FT

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#12 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 01:43:52 pm
I'm sure that's all bollocks, what's needed is the desire to burn someone off. My mates close to doing it, I can't have that, so i'm reinvigorated. C'mon, burn me off.

petejh

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#13 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 01:47:54 pm
I'm way ahead of you anyway, Dave MacLeod says positive thinking is negative. So you need to hate it right?

*Newsflash*
Dour Scot doubts benefits of positive thinking exclusive.
*Newsflash*

(I mostly agree with him though)


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#14 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 01:54:10 pm
So dense was right all along.

mrjonathanr

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#15 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 06:42:57 pm
Shark is about right I think.

Up 1st to left hand crimp, then basically it's left-right-left etc till you can clip with your left crossing under right. Feet are high on smeary stuff, you need to play around to find what's best for you, including the traverse left which has a few options. One is there's a jug out right to make for, you can also rest on the undercuts before the last bulge.

As for quality of route, it's legendary for a reason. Good luck!

Wil

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#16 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 08:27:38 pm
My sequence is left hand to the first good crimp, right hand to the crappy one next to it, then go again right hand to better edge, left hand on hold next to it, right foot to the good foothold next to the clip. Then right hand up to another crimp, go again for the pocket. It it possible to clip from here, but I think it's better to keep moving, get your feet up, left hand up then right hand to a crap hold, left hand into the pocket, it's easier to clip now. Then space walk rightwards using the hidden slopers for your feet.

I still (!) haven't ticked it, I find that section steady when I'm not tired, but I really struggle after doing the lower part, even with the rest. It's a tricky clip, but if you keep going until your left hand is in the pocket then you only have to push the rope in.

Duncan campbell

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#17 Re: Body Machine
June 03, 2015, 10:50:18 pm
I'm sure that's all bollocks, what's needed is the desire to burn someone off. My mates close to doing it, I can't have that, so i'm reinvigorated. C'mon, burn me off.

hahahahaha

lagerstarfish

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#18 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:37:07 am
I love the way that route climbers have to use actual words to communicate instead of the more natural beta transfer via video footage from a static camera

iain

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#19 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 08:32:28 am
It's usually done via one legged mime.


Wound up back on this last night as the cheedale carpark road was closed and we were too lazy for the 10min detour.

The way most are talking about feels too stretched/powerful, I'm 5.6+ with the wrong hair to compensate.
From break, lh to first good crimp, rh to rubbish, rf high and yard rh to good crimps, lf in break, lh to crimps, then rf to good edge beside bolt, rh to curved part of top right crimp, match lh on flat part, lf high onto first good crimp, cross lh over into pockety crimp thing , unwind rh to slopey pocket, rf along slopey ledge (I'll probably clip here with right) then rh to big sidepull etc.

Did it with a sharp pockety/pinch undercut for the rh from the good crimps as well but that felt harder.

Wood FT

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#20 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 09:04:41 am
Cheers Iain, will give that a go tonight. Are you doing the big RH move to the 'good crimps' off the black ticked footholds?



tomtom

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#21 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 09:20:00 am
I'm sure that's all bollocks, what's needed is the desire to burn someone off. My mates close to doing it, I can't have that, so i'm reinvigorated. C'mon, burn me off.

I've done it one legged - whilst it was wet, with a stuffed parrot on my shoulders. Beat that!

a dense loner

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#22 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 09:25:58 am
That will be one of my epitaphs Jasper

iain

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#23 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 09:57:53 am
I think so, tiny thing on the face for the lf, rf on the bit that sticks up in the break that you can use to pull the hips in doing the move. Rf might move there before rh goes to the rubbish.
Makes a difference how I catch the right hold too, I half crimp/drag and wrap the thumb on a small edge underneath the fingers.

Wood FT

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#24 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 10:15:22 am
Makes a difference how I catch the right hold too, I half crimp/drag and wrap the thumb on a small edge underneath the fingers.
right that's exactly what I'm doing so I'm just being a wimp, might feel better trying different feet and being less stretched out

petejh

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#25 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 10:38:29 am
I'm sure that's all bollocks, what's needed is the desire to burn someone off. My mates close to doing it, I can't have that, so i'm reinvigorated. C'mon, burn me off.

I've done it one legged - whilst it was wet, with a stuffed parrot on my shoulders. Beat that!

Are you talented training and dress-up wad Tom Randall?

ChrisC

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#26 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 11:35:34 am
No one has mentioned the rest in the break? If you are getting pumped on the top it's probably worth spending some time finding?

It was a while ago but I remember a really good right foot jam wrapped round the back of something in the break and LF on a sloping black foot hold that meant I could get a no hands rest. This was very core intensive and slightly scary, but with the addition of an alternating hand it was good enough to recover fully.

Johnny Brown

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#27 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 11:58:46 am
I spent twenty minutes in that position once and still couldn't do the next bit. Waste of fucking time.

Wood FT

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#28 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:03:59 pm
No one has mentioned the rest in the break? If you are getting pumped on the top it's probably worth spending some time finding?

It was a while ago but I remember a really good right foot jam wrapped round the back of something in the break and LF on a sloping black foot hold that meant I could get a no hands rest. This was very core intensive and slightly scary, but with the addition of an alternating hand it was good enough to recover fully.

I'd sacked that off as I just couldnt understand how people were getting their legs so deep into the crag, i'll have another look tonight and someone else mentioned taking a jumper up with you to wrap round your leg. Currently just doing a Gresham on the jugs with the occasional heel/toe.

Wood FT

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#29 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:05:34 pm
Also, I think it's terrifying leaving my leg in like that :(

cheque

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#30 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:10:35 pm
doing a Gresham

'Scuse my ignorance, but what does this mean (in this context)?

ChrisC

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#31 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:20:52 pm
Also, I think it's terrifying leaving my leg in like that :(

That's a fair point. But it felt OK when you got the position right. Think it was alternating between a jug and a jam for the hands either side of a pillar in the break. RH probably quite close to your RF.


kc

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#32 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:25:04 pm
Guy you need to speak to Stone. He has spent more time in that break than anyone x 2.

shark

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#33 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:25:15 pm
No one has mentioned the rest in the break? If you are getting pumped on the top it's probably worth spending some time finding?

It was a while ago but I remember a really good right foot jam wrapped round the back of something in the break and LF on a sloping black foot hold that meant I could get a no hands rest. This was very core intensive and slightly scary, but with the addition of an alternating hand it was good enough to recover fully.

I'd sacked that off as I just couldnt understand how people were getting their legs so deep into the crag, i'll have another look tonight and someone else mentioned taking a jumper up with you to wrap round your leg. Currently just doing a Gresham on the jugs with the occasional heel/toe.


Shaking out with a vertical fist jam helps give your fingers a rest alternated with a jug works well for me. Fist jam a bit uncomfortable but not painful. Feels hard to recover to begin with. When fit I can get virtually everything back. 

iain

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#34 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:46:35 pm
Also, I think it's terrifying leaving my leg in like that :(
Me too :no:

Shaking out with a vertical fist jam helps give your fingers a rest alternated with a jug works well for me. Fist jam a bit uncomfortable but not painful. Feels hard to recover to begin with. When fit I can get virtually everything back. 
I've tried that and couldn't get a decent jam to pain ratio, could it be hand size dependent or should I just man up?

tomtom

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#35 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:52:36 pm
I'm sure that's all bollocks, what's needed is the desire to burn someone off. My mates close to doing it, I can't have that, so i'm reinvigorated. C'mon, burn me off.

I've done it one legged - whilst it was wet, with a stuffed parrot on my shoulders. Beat that!

Are you talented training and dress-up wad Tom Randall?

No chance - all that perverted crack climbing? Thats deviant ;)

shark

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#36 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 12:57:23 pm
I've tried that and couldn't get a decent jam to pain ratio, could it be hand size dependent or should I just man up?

Worth experimenting with as it is painful if you get it wrong. Its not a true fist jam because your wrist is in a constriction in the break which opens out at the back where your hand is so you are mainly resting by pulling against the base of your hand below the thumb which means you dont need to squeeze hard.

Wood FT

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#37 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:01:41 pm
doing a Gresham

'Scuse my ignorance, but what does this mean (in this context)?

"hang from straight arms and squat"

- one of his coaching videos

Johnny Brown

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#38 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:07:48 pm
I found all the jams pretty uncomfortable, leg and fist. The problem is there isn't a decent foothold.

Wood FT

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#39 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:13:08 pm
Guy you need to speak to Stone. He has spent more time in that break than anyone x 2.

I'll ask him, cheers

Shaking out with a vertical fist jam helps give your fingers a rest alternated with a jug works well for me. Fist jam a bit uncomfortable but not painful. Feels hard to recover to begin with. When fit I can get virtually everything back. 

I think this must be what Dom Lee does, had a scout around for it last week, is it quite deep at the cruddy back? I felt like a vet with their arm in a cow and the mess to show for it

iain

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#40 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:19:01 pm
Worth experimenting with as it is painful if you get it wrong. Its not a true fist jam because your wrist is in a constriction in the break which opens out at the back where your hand is so you are mainly resting by pulling against the base of your hand below the thumb which means you dont need to squeeze hard.
Ah, ok thanks, I'll try again.

I felt like a vet with their arm in a cow and the mess to show for it
;D

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#41 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:33:29 pm
Elbow deep I think, on the right. The cow analogy is about right.

Wood FT

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#42 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 01:36:31 pm
Ta. Elbow Deep huh, sounds like a spinal tap album

nai

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#43 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 05:45:13 pm
The way most are talking about feels too stretched/powerful, I'm 5.6+ with the wrong hair to compensate.

Good work putting DMC's advice to work so quickly ;D

Just had first session on this, bulge seemed to come together pretty quickly - LH crimp, RH poor match, go again for RH crimp, LH match, LH to next crimp but the one on the right, RH to pockety thing, Clip, shuffle along.

Break rest felt fine just holding the jugs on the good foothold, putting a foot in didn't seem to work, fisting a cow sounds worth a try though.  Got quite a decent shake post rockover with LF on the rockover foothold and at the undercuts before the final bulge too.

There's a dry streak on the start now, was that there recently?

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#44 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 08:16:11 pm
The right foot just needs to find the right position in the break- not too far in, point toes a bit left and lean back effectively jammed between instep and bottom of calf. Place your left foot on a hold and lean right back, jams and cow orifices not required.

You can leave a rag there to cushion it if you like but it's such a good rest I would recommend you persist till it clicks.

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#45 Re: Body Machine
June 04, 2015, 10:53:52 pm
  :agree:

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#46 Re: Body Machine
June 05, 2015, 07:37:50 am
Hi there,
I had a really nice sequence for the bulge if it helps.
I go lh to to the right most of the first two obvious crimps,
then grab a less obvious poor crimp in my right,  to the right and up a little of the other hand,
Then put my heel on the left of the other good crimps and rock over and sit hard on it.
Then you can easily go left hand all the way up to the best slot(which usually ends up in the right if
Not,  making it pumpy  up there).then place right foot wide on good foot,  clip and chill as you're in balance.
Also for the rest,  when I got there I just shoved my foot in further than felt natural and I was hands off and quite comfortable.

iain

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#47 Re: Body Machine
June 05, 2015, 09:06:08 am
Good work putting DMC's advice to work so quickly ;D
Comes naturally  :whistle:

Hi there,
I had a really nice sequence for the bulge if it helps.
I go lh to to the right most of the first two obvious crimps,
then grab a less obvious poor crimp in my right,  to the right and up a little of the other hand,
Then put my heel on the left of the other good crimps and rock over and sit hard on it.
Then you can easily go left hand all the way up to the best slot(which usually ends up in the right if
Not,  making it pumpy  up there).then place right foot wide on good foot,  clip and chill as you're in balance.
Also for the rest,  when I got there I just shoved my foot in further than felt natural and I was hands off and quite comfortable.
I wind up with the left hand in the slot anyway but I'll give this a bash. By "first two obvious crimps" do you mean to two on the lip of the bulge, (the right one wouldn't be good enough for me there,) or the pair a few feet higher when your feet are in the break?

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#48 Re: Body Machine
June 05, 2015, 08:35:55 pm
Hi,
Yeah on the lip of the bulge.  My left heel went on what I remember being the best of all the crimps up there.
I hope I haven't confused you,  as I may be remembering it skewed. But defo crimp,  crimp ( maybe right hand went again to the poor crimp)  left heel up,  lh slot, rf wide,  rh side pull.
Do you happen to know if the bottom wall there is dry yet?
Cheers,
Jim. 

nai

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#49 Re: Body Machine
June 05, 2015, 09:05:51 pm

Do you happen to know if the bottom wall there is dry yet?
Cheers,
Jim. 

It wasn't yesterday, couple of dry streaks emerging but still lots of water seeping out, Mr Sharpholds happened by and seemed to think that a couple of weeks dry weather might be required before it dried fully.

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#50 Re: Body Machine
June 06, 2015, 11:27:30 pm
Oh OK.
Thank you.

nai

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#51 Re: Body Machine
June 12, 2015, 08:18:23 am
Drove down for a look yesterday, dry streaks are growing but it's still glistening in the middle.  With tomorrow's downpour set to keep it seeping I'm beginning to think it'll never dry this year.

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#52 Re: Body Machine
July 13, 2015, 06:35:44 pm
We were on this on the weekend and I think I have left a quick draw in the first bolt. If anyone happens to go on it feel free to take it out and just leave it by the tree stump or something,  I'll be back there on Saturday. Also worth mentioning that whilst on the crux of the push up start, ( right hand on sharp gaston/thumb catch and left hand on sidepull)  just as I was about to go up for the undercut the left hand side pull snapped a bit. It's still usable just,  but there is a very sharp spike in the middle. It disintegrated so no option to fix unfortunately. The move is just a bit more minging than it already was!

shark

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#53 Re: Body Machine
July 13, 2015, 08:59:53 pm
Did think the left side hold felt different - more positive if anything though not as good as it was originally.

I have your QD. If I go back this week I'll stash it and PM you the location.

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#54 Re: Body Machine
July 13, 2015, 11:00:37 pm
Thanks mate

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#55 Re: Body Machine
July 21, 2015, 10:20:56 pm
Hi Simon I tried to do a pm but I think I messed it up!
I got my qd back,  thanks a lot mate.
We both got our routes done too  ;D
Cheers,
Jim

 

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