[Wood FT]

Drinking even more beer than normal until my finger gets better.

ah, the way of the Pasquill

[T_B]

I was gonna say, I think he's getting confused about what "the way of the Barrows" involves

[shurt]

STG: finish Still Waters at Cheddar (can do all moves as of 2 wks ago) or any 7b for that matter
MTG: finish Bullworker at Brean Down after falling off top move 3 times in December
LTG: E6, 8a route, surpass previous best of V7/7a+ bouldering

m: already wrote about BHM at Cheddar last week although I'd like to add I nearly drove over a peacock on the way to the crag in Priddy. Its a first for me. Whoever owns them seem to be happy to let them free range...
t:
w:
t:
f: 20 drunk pull ups in 2 sets of 10 some rest between
s:
s: 3 sets on the fingerboard (reduced first set as something felt tweeky (not proper warm up). only did this lot as felt that my write up this week would be very lame. its good for something then!

shit week. low motivation, low mood, no sleep. happy to chalk it off.

[nai]

Can anyone direct me to a good metronome shop and which knee pads are the best to get.

if you're after an interval timer this is good, full version well worth the whole 79p it costs.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=fi.ohra.impetus&hl=en

If you do just want a metronome there are plenty of free apps available.

I've got a 5.10 kneepad but it keeps sliding off my leg, even when cranked on as tight as it'll go, ends up round my ankle.

[Dolly]

M Hungover from a friends 50th party the night before. Did a bit of gardening
T Foundry lunchtime. Good
W Kettlebells in the morning before work. Jeans, Calvins, no shirt, barefoot
T 10 easy routes at the gym
F
S Anston with Rob. Jack the Nipper was the goal but in hindsight we over warmed up playing on other things before we got there. It feels like a loooong way from the ear to the sloper. Completely battered afterwards
S Some gardening

[petejh]

STG: The Oak (by June 13th) or The Brute (in August)
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within three years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

M. Malham. Oak sesh 5. Finished working out all moves. Ended with a good unintentional link from the ground to middle of the traverse left. Thumb-spragged the 2nd gaston instead of getting properly gaston'd into it, and fell. Good link.
T.
W. Malham. Oak sesh 6. Dodgy guts from some bad chicken the night before, had to divert into a field on way in and fertilise under the watchful gaze of a cow. Low energy nearly all session but came good on last go of the evening - linked from ground to middle of the traverse, same place as last sesh and same failure-delaying thumb-sprag rather than getting the proper gaston.
T. Core workout and back mobility.
F.
S. Malham. Oak sesh 7. Terrible session for the most part. Woken at 5.30am, guts still not quite right, bit of a frustrating end of week for a few reasons. Got to crag feeling cranky and tired. Couldn't climb and feet kept popping off on start moves feeling weirdly anxious and strung out. Finally strung together a decent link and managed a new minor high point getting properly into the 2nd gaston on traverse and bumping right foot in, fell off. Need to have a good day.
S. No partner so drove home and went to Mill for a campus sesh to test power. Did 136, 146, 15match, 15bumpto6. All on small rungs. So power's still decent.


Frustrating week, feel like I need a good night's sleep and to feel relaxed and I've a decent chance of nailing it. Giving myself until the 13th to send, if it's not done by then it's a week of relaxing on low 7s in Rodellar then forgetting Oak and moving back into training phase for The Brute in August.

[jwi]

Old STG:
Hanging 6mm edge for 10s on my adjustable fingerboard. Failed as STG. Hung 6.5mm. Not really close.
Getting back to 20+ pullups. Also a fail. 19 pullups…
New STG: hmm... get back on this next week.
Improve
MTG:
Flashing a few non-vertical white boulderprobs in the gym.
Onsight one 8a or five 7c+'s this year. Preferably both.
Do something fairly challenging in Taghia in September.
LTG: TBD

Mo: Rest
Tue: Tired the ten move 8b I'd HD on Sunday. Did it with one hang.
Wed: rest
Thu: bouldering in the gym.
Fri: rest
Sat: bouldering + 4x3 in the gym (three 4 moves problems, resting 10 s between the problems, 4 sets) to get some strenght endurance for the ten move 8b.
Sun: rest
Mon: rest
Tue : Heat wave hits southern France (8b in 30+ with no wind, high humidity is pretty far out of my reach) couldn't even put in the draws on said 8b. Stupidly tried a 14 move 8a instead. Could do the moves, but to link anything when the body overheats after one move is just too hard for me. Well, climbing is an outdoor sport and weather is just one factor.


Progression:
Weight: 69-71 kg
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5

[shark]

Frustrating week, feel like I need a good night's sleep and to feel relaxed and I've a decent chance of nailing it. Giving myself until the 13th to send, if it's not done by then it's a week of relaxing on low 7s in Rodellar then forgetting Oak and moving back into training phase for The Brute in August.

Gettng super close. Hope you get it.