[T_B]

85.8Kg

M - School lunch. Bouldering mainly 50 degree, plus close on Pink on big board.
T - F/board p.m. 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, 1 x 6 x 7 back 3 and 1 x 5 x 7. 1 x 6 x 7 15mm edge. Good sess.
W -
T - Decided to roll the Anston conditions dice, as it sounded like the best bet despite not being psyched for the drive. Arrived just after 7pm, someone said "it's completely dry" on arrival at the Wave. Not quite, but close. Still damp holds on Black Crow. Got warmed up then decided f*ck it, I'll see if I can't dry BC. Worked the moves, used lots of chalk and eventually it seemed to be feasibly moist. 1st redpoint from the deck fell off at the slap, round the lip. Went for a walk, then did the same thing again. Next go stuck the slap and campussed to glory. Scrubbed off all my chalk and went to look at Woody's but felt wrecked and the fingery problems there felt desperate.
F - Made a 3-legged stool on an Ecclesall Woods craft course (quite physical!)
S - 20 mins F/board a.m. then 2 hours at Burbage N in the afternoon. Decided to do some mileage but also flashed Striker Left Hand 7A+ (nice and basic) and had a few decent goes on Striker itself - one to come back for in colder temps. Repeated Blind Date marginal but only just in the conditions.
S -

Great to have finally been able to climb Black Crow, though it would get about 7A on the School 50 degree board . Off to N Wales today for a week. Feel pretty well prepped for some Cave action.

[kelvin]

Have a great week in Wales TB 

[shark]

F - Made a 3-legged stool on an Ecclesall Woods craft course (quite physical!)

Picture !

[shark]

11.3-6

M. AM Tor. Met Nick C there. Back on Sardine. A few redpoint attempts failing at the crux each time.
T.
W.
T.
F. AM Hungover. Started fingerboard session but was useless so stopped. Lunch. Resumed session then had to go to dentist. PM Finished session with some decent scores.
S. Raven Tor. Met Simon D  there. Bit damp and then got a bit humid. Dogged up Sardine then redpointed first go \o/ Went on Tin Of . Crux a bit tricky in the conditions. Worked it but didnt manage redpoint. Although boxed joined ThreeNine on Undercut to Crimp 7B+ . Surprised myself by being able to properly pull on the undercut which Im sure I wasnt able to when I dabbled on this in the past. Felt do-able with a some application. Would be a great confidence boost if I did as it would be a breakthrough to do a single move power problem at this grade and help get  useful undercut strength for the Oak
S.

Alcohol consumption up this week. Generally lacking get up and go. Overall my hand is very sensitive to bumps and scrapes and I still need a bandage. Visit to Burns Unit on wednesday  had disappointingly concluded that although the worst patch had healed, because I had knocked the scabs off other bits, they wouldn't let me have an exciting black compression glove which I was very much looking forward to, so I could assume a sinister Dr No affectation.

Got an email reminder that the School membership is up for renewal. Given that I have only been 3 times it will be hard to justify renewing this to Sonia. But seeing the benefits that TB has had I am loathe to let it lapse. 

Hard to plan ahead too much but generally going to keep showing up at the Tor and work by way up the grades to be fit for Squamish and do selective bouldering that is unlikely to bash my hand. Between times I'll keep at the fingerboard and systems board adding stuff gradually.

[petejh]

STG: The Oak (by early June) or The Brute (in August)
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within three years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

M. Massage.
T.
W. Malham. Oak sesh 2. Working out moves/beta.
T. Malham. Oak sesh 3. Progress on traverse and start moves.
F.
S. Malham. Oak sesh 4. Good progress, all moves worked out and refined (top groove needs refining, could drop it here). Did a good link - from the undercut at the start to the chains, well happy.
S. Core/back workout and mobility


Great week of progress on Oak, just need to add in the start moves and it's on. Skin makes such a difference! Back up tomorrow, then redpointing by next weekend, or sooner if I decide to travel up midweek.

[shark]

S.  (top groove needs refining, could drop it here).

You know about the kneebar?

[webbo]

Why the watch. Just in case as passing walker asks the time, think of the excess weight.
Also it makes you like a punter.

[shark]

Why the watch. Just in case as passing walker asks the time, think of the excess weight.
Also it makes you like a punter.

It was a few years ago - I carry a sun dial now.

[petejh]

You know about the kneebar?

Thanks Shark yeah I knew about it from watching your vids (the only footage out there that I can find). Tried the kneebar finish on Saturday along with two other methods. Not sure yet which to go with, need to decide quickly though and stick with it! You look well solid on it in the vids, clearly strong enough and obv a matter of PE (or whatever they call it round your way).

[tomtom]

Mon. Travel to Australia.

Rest of week work work work. Though went swimming here yesterday

[fried]

M-Th - Nothing, tired from previous week. Wrist/ thumb a bit sore too.

Fr - Paris - Herts - Matlock - Darley dale.

Sa - Family walk around Stanton moor. Pint in the red lion. Evening bimble around rhs/ cratcliffe on 4s and 5s.

Su- Family walk around black rocks. More beer. Do first bbq of the year.

[JackAus]

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 5/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: St Leonards. 6 second front lever. They're coming along nicely... Climbed too. As usual, made up problems to about V6/7. Tiny bit of campussing and fingerboarding.
T: Rest.
W: Sissy. Warm ups up to V4. Worked a V6. Fell numerous times off the last move (sideways dyno to sloper). Cruised up to this point so many times. Started working another V7. All the moves done, linked a few but the start is a butt dragger. Not that inspired. Got back on Our Man From Havana, shouldery-est V7 in existence. Nearly did it too. And again, had lots of throws at Not For Sissies, big V9 dyno. So so close. Can't believe I haven't done it yet.
T: St Leonards. Ruined from Sissy. Lapped loads of stuff. Took ages to warm up.
F: Rest/travel down the coast to parentals'. Went to movies with Dad to see Mad Max.
S: Cheesdale. Slow start... Didn't get out until 1pm... Warmed up on Two Fingered Destiny V6 doing all the moves bar the last (steep dyno around a bulge to a sloper from a shallow 2 finger pocket..... Nails.) Moved on to Pearl Necklace V7 to the left. Tried it before just couldn't stick the crux (either high left heel and bump left hand or low low left toe and go left hand). Managed to stick it with low toe and did to the top. Crux is only 2 moves in but just couldn't stick it from the start. Dropped off the last hold because I dabbed a spotter's arm. He claimed he didn't feel it. All I had to do was match...... Couldn't stick the crux from the start afterwards.... Also tried a V8 that has a horrible crimp on it. Still just didn't want to try and bear down on it.
S: Lot 33 and Cheesedale. The Lot in the AM. Warmed up doing bunch of stuff up to V4. Jumped on a V6 that I've fallen off the very barn door-ey penultimate match. Tried a bunch of different beta for the last move. Managed to fall off the top jug with fingers over.... Got annoyed and moved on. Repeated a V7 I did a month or so ago. Did it first go, felt great. Love that problem. Had a couple throws on another V7 that I haven't tried in aaaaages. Didn't get far, heel wouldn't stick. Closer to it in the middle of summer.....
Dashed over to Cheesedale to try and do Pearl Necklace. Too many attempts and just couldn't stick the crux from the start. Very annoyed and running quite late. Back up to Sydney.

Keen to get back to Sissy (maybe wed night again) but also keen to get back to the Fear Factory. Hasn't had time to dry out properly before it rains again....
Repeating the V7 felt good! First time I've repeated something that hard. Went easy too.

[Schnell]

STG: do some climbing on two week sport trip without getting more injured
MTG: make progress fixing all injuries. (just bought make or break which I hope will help with this)

M-T: did two indoor aerocap sessions to keep circulation going and to keep some fitness. also shoulder stability
F: easy trad day in nice weather, brilliant day.
S: swimming and more easy-ish trad, wobbled up one E2 feeling shit and slightly tweaked the finger en route. wobbled halfway up another before getting total anti-psyche and downclimbing.

I've got one more week until going away for two weeks sport climbing in tarn. I've been considering whether or not to go though because I'm not going to be able to climbing anywhere near my limit. It'll be the least prepared I've ever been for a trip by a long way. The injuries are getting better but nowhere near properly fixed. Neither am I really going for the holiday/company because it's with people I don't know massively well, though i have booked two weeks off which I've got to take. Opinions? Apologies for the moany post.

[SA Chris]

Fuck, you whiner, just go. Anything better than wet UK. I'd snap up the opportunity, even though I am stupidly unfit and injured. What would you rather be doing?

[Herbert]

A new joiner inspired to put more effort in.
Stg: 3 more each of 7a and 7A MtG: carrot ridge, Lightening Strike, Underbare DWS, Ltg: 7b, Cuillin ridge

M-S: Shoulder theraband
S: Easy fingerboard

[Schnell]

Fuck, you whiner, just go. Anything better than wet UK. I'd snap up the opportunity, even though I am stupidly unfit and injured. What would you rather be doing?

True, note to self, stop complaining. To be fair I'd vaguely considered trying a non-climbing holiday  for once, I hear these exist but I'm not sure how one would go about it. How do you prove you're better than your mates at sightseeing anyway?

[mr chaz]

STG. 8a redpoint, more 7B+/C boulders. 1 4 7


M. Exam.
T. Final exam. Celebratory bouldering session (indoors) followed by drinking.
W. Hungover bouldering session (indoors), fingerboard max hangs and 40 degree.
T. Indoors again, fingerboard max hangs and 40 degree.
F.
S.
S.

Hopefully back up to normal volume next week. Was bound to take a hit this week with exams and starting back at work

[Doylo]

Fuck, you whiner, just go. Anything better than wet UK. I'd snap up the opportunity, even though I am stupidly unfit and injured. What would you rather be doing?

True, note to self, stop complaining. To be fair I'd vaguely considered trying a non-climbing holiday  for once, I hear these exist but I'm not sure how one would go about it. How do you prove you're better than your mates at sightseeing anyway?

I wouldn't recommend it.

[r-man]

How do you prove you're better than your mates at sightseeing anyway?

Standard Brits-abroad rules. The person who drinks the most and remembers the least is the winner.

[nai]

Goal: leave the ground, arrive at the chain without fucking up.

M - rest
T - 4 x 10mins Aerocap, warmed up enough to have a crack at the broken circuit to see how far I could get.  Couple of moves short of previous best.  Seem to be leaving my peak behind.
w - rest
Th - Malham, Raindogs session 2. Made some progress but not quite as much as I'd hoped to. Did iron out a few things in the sequence and the clipping positions but keep forgetting foot sequences.
FSS rest

Half term this week so a mid season break. New phase starts next week, haven't quite decided what it will be yet.

[nai]

To be fair I'd vaguely considered trying a non-climbing holiday  for once, I hear these exist but I'm not sure how one would go about it.

Booked one of these for two weeks in the summer, currently on my 4th day of no climbing and beginning to wonder how I'm going to survive.

[Muenchener]

STG: Go climbing
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine: 93.0%
            Muscle Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer),  Marmolada south face (Vinatzer Messner)

Planned alpine trad trip to the Far East (of Austria) was a no-go due to weather; bailed to the Frankenjura.

M: Wall, Freimann. Routes 5b 6a 6a+ 6a+ 6c (rp 2nd go) 7a (bolt to bolt) 6a+. 6c matches the hardest I have ever done on plastic in an upward direction, so good.
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Fairly relaxed route mileage session 5c 5b 6a+ 6a+ 6a+ 6b+ 6a+ 6b+
T: Bike to work 25km
   And at work, 4x40 stories stair climbing. Alpine season is coming, even if it won't be starting this weekend as originally planned.
F: Rest.
S - M: Frankenjura long weekend. Realising that I haven't been up north for a while, and I need a certain amount of re-acclimatisation to the area and the style. So in that sense, a 6c flash and a 6c+ redpoint - first go this year, on a route I tried briefly last summer - is not too bad a haul for the weekend. Otoh 7b+ on Sautanz feels like a rather distant prospect.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board really struggled even to warm up sacked it off in the end.
Wed. Board struggled again got a workout though.
Thu. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Fri. James at Scarborough.
Sat. Bike 54.95 miles 3hrs 27 mins struggling a bit due to hangover.
Sun. Board reasonable session repeated a couple of problems from November that took several sessions when I first did them. Bike 1 hour intervals.

[nik at work]

STG - have a play on make it funky (if it' dry??), Gotham extension.
Mtg - 8c (make it funky or mini sukarra) a new E8, a new 8a, 8A
Ltg - 9a

M - bm session, +20kg. Decent session. Also did front levers with weighted ankles, 2kg felt ok, 4kg felt impossible.
T - outside on the traverse wall, did a few traverses then played on the project eliminate traverse. Some decent links, then worked the individual moves on a harder start Boulder problem, even doing single moves was desperate so this won't be incorporated into a traverse any time soon...
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - bm session +20kg. Good session
S - nothing
S - the bat cave, did Gotham but the extension roof was soaked. Annoying.

Pretty good week really. Gotham extension is getting very annoying as it is purely a matter of it drying out. I can do Gotham without warming up and get to the "chains" feeling pretty fresh but until the top roof dries back a bit I'm not going to get any further. So I'm now not heading back to the bat cave until after next weeks UK trip. Here's hoping for a couple of weeks of drying weather then I can get it done. Also I've had a nasty flair up of ibs/ibd this week (sorry probably too much information) so have not been feeling on sparkling form.
Any details on the condition of make it funky would be appreciated if any power clubbers  are tor bound (shark?).
Schnell go.

[TobyD]

M: 4 mile slow run
T: bouldering on the wave, 3 circuits until skin too sore plus 8 min on/off foot on campussing
W: yoga
T: Bouldering, 2 sets of 5 x min on/off again
F: yoga
S: malham, on top half of a very warm groove at malham
S: stoney trad: 4 E2s
M: malham, 2 goes floor to top on groove with 1 fall, 1 rest on each go; then did top half link on tr which didn't feel too bad... fitness progressing finally?

[Pako]

STG - Do 2 one arms on left arm, one arm with 5kg on right arm
MTG - Do some more v7s outdoors, some v8s. 1-5-9.
LTG - v10 by the end of the year




Great week strengthwise but sort of scared that my climbing has gone to shit.

M - Rest day, campussed around on the board for a while
T - Tried out a new big session plan, with board for 90 minutes, some ring power stuff, in which I very nearly did a full iron cross which is nice, then did my one arm fingerboard stuff with a pulley and lots of pocket stuff on middle, front and back 2.
W - Great session on the board
T - Finally did a bloody one arm. Tried it from straight earlier, got to halfway which I never did before. Tried it later and did it easily, couldn't believe it, tried it again and did 2 of them in a row. Perhaps I have had the strength for it for a while but never tried it properly? This is all in the neutral grip on my right arm. Can't do one yet with left arm, got close with front on right arm.
F - Did some more one arms, rest day
S - Went to the gym, did some good stuff
Flashed a v4 and v5. Got close to a new v7. Didn't feel very good at climbing today, one arms felt much easier.
Did some front on one arms on right arm, felt good.
Did a neutral one arm on the left arm
1-5-8 on both sides, felt pretty easy. Hopefully working on one arming on the beastmaker will make 1-5-9 happen
One arm campus bump on right arm from middle jug on beastmaker to the 20 degree slopers.
Hung on the 45 degree slopers on the BM for about 15 seconds, pullup to them in a controlled manner but can't do the negative motion. Would be nice if my home beastmaker didn't bend so much to make my 45s unusable, they are a good bit of fun.
S - Rest day

Overall some good power stuff, but will work on my climbing more so that I could actually start sending some problems. With this strength some higher grades would be good.

[abarro81]

With this strength some higher grades would be good.

You don't say. My advice would be to do no footless stuff until you're climbing about 6 grades harder, since you're vastly over strong for 8A let alone 7B (I'm presuming we're not talking about campusing on jugs here). There's certainly no point in doing 1 arm work since it will in no way be a limiting factor in doing stuff.

[Pako]

Yeah, the plan now is to stop doing strength work and just climb on the board and try to do hard problems.

[Dolly]

A knackering week. I worked late every night apart from Wednesday but managed to train enough to keep ticking over.

M Foundry lunchtime. Should have left it really cos I was knackered
T Kettlebells in the morning before work. No pants required
W Foundry lunchtime. Opened my account on the new level 3s. Good session. Pilates in the evening
T
F Foundry lunchtime. Another good short hard session
S
S Anston. Wanted to play on Alpha but it was very wet at the start. Did Colt which I hadn't done before then The un-named at Woody's. I felt a bit un-nerved climbing there, as if Gollum was going to come out from the cave at the back and attack me.

[cheque]

STG- Finish film without becoming irretrievably crap at climbing.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- One armer obviously.

M- Pullups. Did some last Monday as well but forget to mention on here. Hopefully you can all forgive me.

T- Rest.

W- Rest.

T- Pleasley Vale. Four attempts at the long traverse, failing a few moves from the end each go- imrovement from last week but not as good as last July. That might not sound remarkable, but this was a really, really good session- for the first time in a very long time I've felt like I was really comfortable trying hard and like I was working on every aspect of my climbing and mentally open to everything I was doing. 

F- Rest.

S- Nothing. In Cheltenham of all places.

S- Wandering around National Trust places in Gloucestershire.

M- AM- Haresfield Beacon. It's a tiny chossy limestone crag near Stroud. At first I thought it was the worst crag I'd ever been to but then I got stuck into the traverse and quote enjoyed it- interesting fossily/ flowstoney rock on the lower third and some nice holds. Did the traverse second go. PM- Castle Rock, Cleeve Hill. At first I thought it was the worst crag I'd ever been to and I was absolutely right. Makes Pleasley Vale look like Ceuse.

Good week. Still editing every day (or every day I'm at home at least) so that limits what I can do. Feels great to be training again though. Very psyched to get the film finished and be a proper climber again.

[SA Chris]

At Haresfield; is that the lower traverse by the oak tree? I liked that as well.

[cheque]

At Haresfield; is that the lower traverse by the oak tree? I liked that as well.

No, the upper one- called "the long traverse" in the guidebook, but I made it even longer by traversing the whole upper crag. 

I found the lower traverse just as we were leaving, thought it looked good and was in two minds to stay for it but decided to go and check out Cleeve Hill. 

[SA Chris]

In the guidebook?? Things have changed!

lower one is quite fun, more working technique and sequence rather than fitness or fingers. I went to check out Cleeve Hill once in the rain, and never went back.

[cheque]

In the guidebook?? Things have changed!

  The Cotswolds is squeezed in the back of the current Symonds Yat guide- other crags apart from the two I visited are mentioned but they seem even worse. You don't need a guide obviously but I love reading them so I'll take any excuse to buy one to a new area!

[the_dom]

Another less than ideal week:

Mon: Treadmill intervals - first time in a while. Didn't feel too bad.
Tues: AM Hangboard - one arms, max hangs and repeaters. Solid session.
Wed: Hangboard - CWP programme. Felt pretty tired.
Thurs: 40 min trail run.
Fri: An hour or so on the Moon board followed by some one arm max hangs
Sat: Two surfs.
Sun: Bouldering. LInked 7C+ project into overlapping halves. Decent day.

Need to climb more. Damn actually having to work.

[jwi]

STG:
Hanging 6mm edge for 10s on my adjustable fingerboard.
Getting back to 20+ pullups.
MTG:
Flashing a few non-vertical white boulderprobs in the gym.
Onsight one 8a or five 7c+'s this year. Preferably both.
Do something fairly challenging on Naranjo in August. /Todra in September. Wherever we decide to go
LTG: TBD

Hard week at work, and very little sleep.
Mo:  Rest
Tue: Fingerboard and some pullups
Wed: Rest. Tried to go to the gym, but slept only three hours the night before, so I went to bed early instead.
Thur: Bouldering in the gym. Some campusing (max distance).
Fri: Rest
Sat: Climbing outside. 7a, 8a hd, 8a rp, 7b
Sun: Climbing outside. 7a, 7b, figured out the moves but not all clips on an 8b (ten hard moves then 7b+ to the top) no links to speak of.

Progression:
Weight: 70-71 kg
≈6.5mm edge crimped 10s (hard to measure exactly, so may not have been the best goal)
flash of white's in the gym: 0
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5

[shurt]

Bit of a late post here... Included bank hol Monday.

STG: finish Still Waters at Cheddar (can do all moves as of 2 wks ago) or any 7b for that matter
MTG: finish Bullworker at Brean Down after falling off top move 3 times in December
LTG: E6, 8a route, surpass previous best of V7/7a+ bouldering

M - skin still trashed from Dartmoor
T -
W -3 sets on fingerboard, first one slightly reduced. Still using increased stamina sets within each. Felt hard work.
T - rested as arranged to go climbing Friday. 
F - partner cancelled which was a bit annoying.
S - 3 sets on fingerboard. felt a bit better.
S - rested as climbing the next day.
M - Went to the Wave at Cheddar. Did 6b+ and 6c to warm up then tried 7a+ I'd been wanting to do. Put clips in, worked out crux then did it pretty easily next go which was really pleasing. No decent 7b's there so got on Insatiable, 7b+ (another longish term aim). Was really surprised with progress, went bolt to bolt putting clips in and got the moves sussed then fell off next go near the top after clipping last bolt before lower off. Rested and tried again but fell off low down feeling toasted.

Not a bad week. Feel like some sort of progress is being made. Would love to be doing 3 lots of fingerboard sets during the week but motivation is a bit low at the moment. Adding into this my little boy is teething really badly (final back tooth) and I am getting a very minimal amount of sleep - Monday night after climbing was literally 2 hrs and the night before climbing 3-4 hrs. God only knows what I'd be with sleep... As Brian Wilson might say (well it was Tony Asher actually but whatever).

[gme]

Mon- Bouldering Alnwick Moonboard- working my way through the 6Cs again. Pretty shit.
Tuesday- School. Working the Purple circuit. Really shit
Wed- rest
Thurs- Luch campus session at works. Evening School again. Ditto tuesday followed by ad hoc rings work. bit better
Fri- rest
Sat- Back Bowden for a few hours in the morning before family duties. Lots of steady mileage. Fun but weak.
Sun- dusted off the road bike and did a hard fought 50km.

Upped the training a bit this week but not very successfully as my finger hurts a fair bit and feels very weak. Campusing didnt hurt it much but still cant crimp. It is however responding to the training well but needs 2 days rest after every session. Confident it will be good in a few weeks. Going to change to climbing day-conditioning day-rest day so my fingers get two days off between sessions.

Struggling to motivate myself i must admit due to the finger so training in a stupid unorganised manner. Major issues with skin as well and presently have 5 big blood blisters on my fingers.

Enjoyed the bike ride but it was hard, legs like lead on the hills.

82 kg but have eaten like a horse all weekend so it may have gone up again. BBQ weather not good for the waistline.