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[Peak][Secret Garden][Zippatricks With Feet On][7c] (Read 1851 times)

dave

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Bit of a weird one this, one for the local collectors.

This is the secret garden traverse without the back wall or below the roof/jug line. Its eliminate obviously, but logical and after the first 2 moves the back wall feels nowhere near. Starts where the crack is on jugs, finishes up Beach Bum finish. Ignoring the eliminate aspect I reckon the moves are up there with the best of grit slopey traverses.

The odd thing is it's the same basic line as Zippatricks, which also didn't use the back wall, except zippy went footless, but to my mind this feet-on version is maybe more logical in the post-'90s heelhooking fashion. Essentially Zippy has already done this but with a bonkers sequence. According to peakbouldering Zippatricks uses feet to top out, which makes it even more of an enigma. Anyone know if Zippatricks has been repeated? This is not to take anything away from Zippy's solution as its clearly uber hard, must be one of the oldest unrepeated 7c+s on grit?

Anyway, hopefully this foot-on version might attract a bit more traffic as you don't need to be 4ft tall to keep your knees off the floor. I'm not gonna "claim" this, just want to put it out there that the problem exists as a foot-on, its great moves, logical line, and doesn't have any body-part rules. It should by rights get popular. I know Bonjoy of this parish has had a look at it in the past.

Grade-wise, saying 7c purely as its feels harder than say Dick Williams or LHM and presumably its easier than the footless Zippatricks version currently at 7c+.

Bonjoy

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Good work Dave. I've tried this and can vouch for the grade and quality of the climbing.

Sam W repeated Zippatricks back in the day. He said it stays footless until knees are about level with the lip, i.e. you campus most of Beach Bum.

dave

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Should have known Sam's done Zippatricks with those guns. #gunishment #gundamentalism

SA Chris

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Your'e a stronger man than I am #gunga din!

 

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