[tomtom]

After some beta for Jericho Road...
I've had about 4-5 sessions on this so far and making steady progress - but getting a bit stuck on the move to get the high flake in the roof with the LH (RH on the pinchy/thumb lock hold). Its clear what I mean on the below vid.. Theres sparse video beta on this... On Haydns Moffatrocity vid he brings his LF to where I do, drops his knee and twists through.. I try to set this up but it feels a bit wrong for me (I was climbing shit today though..). Looking at this (and chatting to Haydn) I wonder if I should foot swap, so my left foot is on the big hold my right is on, then flag out with the right and reach up... Though that pinchy hold is not great... feels like its all about getting my body position right. Of course I could just pull harder etc..

Any other methods or something simple I'm missing..?

[andy popp]

You need Ben and Jerry shouting at you ...

[dave]

Instead of matching the high rail, cross over into the high slot with LH, then unwind into the finishing holds once your set your feet up a bit. I do this so you should be more than tall enough. Don't use any of the lower pinches with thumb catches etc.

P.s. You're starting 2 moves in there.

[tomtom]

I thought about that - but feels a long way away with my left knee dropped in to move my lh.. Not tried it though...

the starting rail was gopping - hence starting from there...

[nai]

the starting rail was gopping - hence starting from there...

rubbish, you were starting there last week when the rail was fine.  that doesn't exist

[tomtom]

(Thanks Dave!)

[tomtom]

the starting rail was gopping - hence starting from there...

rubbish, you were starting there last week when the rail was fine.  that doesn't exist

It was gopping today! And on Monday.. Plattsy is my witness I wouldn't take the tick without the starting 6A moves

[nai]

I'm only jealous because I can't reach higher than the rail (and my attempts on the problem end about where yours start) 

At least you're now saved from doing it only to find that you haven't done it and the moral dilemma of deciding whether to return and do the right thing.

[T_B]

I match the rail, but I do it egyptianed facing left I.e. dropping right knee. Just pull from where u are 

[Three Nine]

Once you've matched the thingy, smash your left heel up and flag to reach out right and then come over with your left to something. The Bob Hickish method.

[abarro81]

Have you tried just keeping feet low on the big holds? That's how I do it (and everything else)

[tomtom]

Low feet is pretty much how I'm doing it so far..

[highrepute]

I go to the slot with my rh from where you are before you go down to the pinch thing. I have to jump to it so you shouldn't have any problem holding it.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Hmm.

Don't know about the faggotry and intermediates. Just go straight up and match on the rail - after bouncing ("bounce?" - just thought I'd save someone else the incredulity..) up to the rail with my right, left foot into the big break, then match. A bit of familiarity with this, and better timing, you won't need to do the other stuff, which will just tire you out.

Drop down right to the pinch/thumb catch. If you know the problem and you do that, really you're in. ( ).

Then (!) left foot up to what I refer to as the obvious square little foothold, and crucially, right foot a little higher to whichever hold - I use an obvious little scoop - works best for you to roll over your right shoulder, to reach the slot solidly with your left.

Left foot off, to unwind out to the flat edge right of the flake. Swap feet, or put left on small edge just right instead, to "casual" into the undercut. Technically, reach up to good hold above with R to finish.

Happy days.

PS. I'm keen to get out there myself, but don't have transport. Sheffield. PM me if you like? DT

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Watched the video again. Just looks like you're spending too much time on it.

It can be quite intimidating, matching the rail if the conditions aren't great, but you've got there anyway. Be a bit more confident and quicker, and concentrate on getting your right foot up.

etc... happy days...   

[tomtom]

Thanks DaveT & Highrepute..

From your description Dave I'm doing (or trying to do) what you suggest - apart from a higher RF - I can reach the slot with my RF low (tried it with the ladder) and it may well be that I'm too knackered to hold it all together by that point...

On the vid I look (surprisingly) like I'm in control - but that was fighting every move - I need the body twisty weight shifting stuff to keep my hands on that rail (and I really like those moves!) as its a pure fight to stop them slipping off...

Highrepute - I thought about reaching up with the right into the slot - but then that leaves me wrong handed for the rest of the problem no?

DaveT - I'm usually coming from Manc - soz...

[a dense loner]

"Watched the video again. Just looks like you're spending too much time on it."

Have you not learned tomtom 

[gme]

Dont put your left foot up, just stand up on the big ledge as abarrows says. I can reach it that way and cant reach the flatty from the ground as you do.

[tomtom]

Dont put your left foot up, just stand up on the big ledge as abarrows says. I can reach it that way and cant reach the flatty from the ground as you do.

OK - from where my foot already is then..

"Watched the video again. Just looks like you're spending too much time on it."

Have you not learned tomtom 

:D it appears not!

[Gallant]

I used a method pretty similar to Three Nine's suggestion, left heel on just seemed to work really well for crossing over LH to the slot.

[tomtom]

Thanks all - and thanks especially to the ladder that helped me work out what to do today. All linked now - just need to save up some strength for the send.



A bit of foot shuffling keeping them low worked for me (PS - I realise thats not the finish btw..)

[DAVETHOMAS90]

That looks like a powerful way to do it! I also think it makes it more likely that you'll drop from where you do in the video.

It looks like quite a reach over your shoulder, and requires more tension to bring your feet up (+ = more load on fingers)?

But who knows; horses for courses. Good to soft.

Good luck.
Dave.

[tomtom]

That looks like a powerful way to do it! I also think it makes it more likely that you'll drop from where you do in the video.

It looks like quite a reach over your shoulder, and requires more tension to bring your feet up (+ = more load on fingers)?

But who knows; horses for courses. Good to soft.

Good luck.
Dave.

It felt OK actually -and power is something I generally don't have
But yes - its what suits your body shape and strengths..

The first two moves (that I wasnt doing last week) seem to feel harder than I remembered

[Stubbs]

As if you can reach with your feet down there, amazing!

[tomtom]

As if you can reach with your feet down there, amazing!