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[Peak][Various grit & lime][27 probs 6A-8A+] (Read 25257 times)

Bonjoy

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Oops, yes I did know that about the start position.

dave k

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Just remembered, Ned also did a mantel through the middle of Scratches at Ramshaw, looked hard (7b?). He nearly linked it to the SS of Scratches but heel popped at the last moment, so that's still to do.
He also did the project mantel left of Journey to the Centre of the Mirf in the new guide, again a vague mention of 7b was made.
Whilst I'm documenting the Ned-machine, since doing this thread he has climbed the left arete of the Guplets wall from SS low start at 7c+ - this is called Black Asteroid and is a real belter.

Where abouts is Scratches at Ramshaw?

dave k

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Just remembered, Ned also did a mantel through the middle of Scratches at Ramshaw, looked hard (7b?). He nearly linked it to the SS of Scratches but heel popped at the last moment, so that's still to do.
He also did the project mantel left of Journey to the Centre of the Mirf in the new guide, again a vague mention of 7b was made.
Whilst I'm documenting the Ned-machine, since doing this thread he has climbed the left arete of the Guplets wall from SS low start at 7c+ - this is called Black Asteroid and is a real belter.

Where abouts is Scratches at Ramshaw?


Got it - Far right hand end beyond old Fogey

Bonjoy

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Vid of Scratches here -

a dense loner

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Looks good!

Bonjoy

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Of the new 7c+s I think it's the most doable for mortals

Bonjoy

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Here’s a couple of vids of new things:

This is Gritlad giving it his all on Elephant Hawk Moth at Crich Tors


And this is the first ascent of Wind Power at Wind Hill Farm Outcrop


Fiend

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Good knee action there!

Will Hunt

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I really like the squeak sound on Highrider

cofe

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Quote
Blackwell Dale – Black, Sack & Crack – 7B
Continuing down dale from Black & Decker Buttress, after passing a vertical buttress you get to a bulge capped roof with a weird tufa pillar at its base. This starts in the break under the roof then crosses it at its widest and punches up slopey crimps to the obvious hanging jug rail. As good if not better than Ovine. FA Ned Feehally

Tried this briefly tonight. Cool. Felt about 7D. Though I was rubbish, a hold was wet and it felt 7D. Looks like someone else has been on it. Assume it keeps left and avoids couple of better holds right?

haydn jones

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when was you there? i was there till 6 today with jon fullwood, i did two new problems on the butress, the line to the right, probably one of the best problems i've done in the peak and i also did black,sack and crack but starting on the big jugs on the right tonight, which i thought made it a little harder so going on black sack and crack being 7B+ maybe 7C and the line to the right is hard to grade as its a dyno to a crimp. if you are really tall you could probably keep your feet on but i had to jump. maybe 7C again? i have no idea

haydn jones

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also not sure what you mean about the holds on the right, its not an eliminate, everything is in.

cofe

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Didn't get out til just after 7, but only went down to BSC last thing. My sequence was: break, LH to a wet spike in roof, RF heel toe, RH flat/slopey edge, LF heel toe, LH small edge, try and get feet out, fall off, scratch head, have a Maoam's fruity chew, check Facebook, scratch head.

But there was a well tickmarked good hold just right, round the lip, which confused me about the line, hence trying to keep left.

Seemed hard, but I'll go back next week, I reckon.

Also, on Bovine, do folk actually use the wet slots or the left-trending little crimps? I was trying the latter but couldn't do the last bit.

haydn jones

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My sequence. Break. Rh to slopey edge. Put left herl to in. Reach to the slopey edge not using the ear in the roof. Bump right hand to the good hold slightly more right ward. Then really big reach with left hand to the next edge with my left. (Jon had to change the heel toe cam to just a toe for this move and also right foot out right in the roof) bump your right hand down to an undercut. (Its the slopey edge i go to on the first move but upsidown.) Move right foot way out right to a smear in the roof. Left foot awkward toe hook out right (releasing the left foot to put the toe hook in is hard) then roll over with right hand to good edge (thats the crux) then flick to the jugs

haydn jones

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Im keen to go back and film all the problems so that shouls shed light on the beta

cofe

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Cheers. Quite different to what I thought.

haydn jones

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Bovine original went leftward along the crimps to the same finish as ovine i suspect becase the slot was wet. When its dry just go strait up to the big jug above.

Three Nine

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I'd be keen to see a vid of the roof problems. I went to have a look and couldnt find anything, or rather I did see a rather small overhang but thought 'surely it cant be that, they said it was really good'  :shrug: be keen to see anyway so I know what's what

cofe

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Ta. I was on holds independent of Ovine, just proper ratty matching the last ones. Will have another crack next week, maybe with the slots if a bit drier.

Anyone done Mint Sauce, looks class.

haydn jones

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whats that one? is that the 1 move 7C?

cofe

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The highball groove. I think that's what it's called anyway. Looked cleaner than normal. And by 'normal' I mean since the last time I went to Griff's, 6 or 7 years ago.

El Mocho

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The highball groove. I think that's what it's called anyway. Looked cleaner than normal. And by 'normal' I mean since the last time I went to Griff's, 6 or 7 years ago.

I did Mint Sauce last week some time. Managed to clean it a little off a ladder but could only just reach to clean the sloper at the base of the groove and when I got there from the ground I felt too tired to try to go straight into the groove so slapped R to a big flakey hold and jug. Didn't go back up and try the more direct finish - I was pretty happy with what I had done and it felt 7c, although finishing straight up may well be harder?? It is good Cofe, you should go try it. I thought it was really good.

Did you feel the flake hold that Mint starts on? Keen to finish off Ru's trav and this was pretty wet last time (didn't really matter for MS as you only hold it for a sec)

cofe

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Ta Ben. I think I felt the hold you mention, and I think it was dry. I think. Starting left crimp hoist on Ovine Low Left was wet/damp.

El Mocho

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cheers word. Won't be climbing till tue at earliest anyhow.

Doylo

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You're not working Monday are you Ben  :o ;)

 

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