[Bonjoy]

A recent boulderer visiting Badger Cove came across a printed sign taped to a tree at the top of one of a couple of possible descents down to the crag from the King Sterndale path. The heavily worded sign implied that access was forbidden, the site was being monitored, being there could constitute a criminal offense and the police would be called.
After a meeting on site with Rob Dyer from the BMC and some emailing it turns out the sign is aimed at discouraging cavers who may indeed by committing an offence by disturbing archaeological material and badgers by digging.
So the message is boulderers can ignore the sign. The crag is on CRoW land and climbing is permitted.
As a by-product of the visit I can confirm that  everything there except a couple of pockets on Thread Nicole is bone dry.

[RobinB]

Is there a topo available? Be keen to have a look at some point

[Johnny Brown]

There are only four or five problems, not sure why they're not on pb.info. From memory Central crack is E1, right of this is Badger badger 8a, steep wall left of it has the 8bs, left again is 7c?, left again is an easier rampline 6c?. Left again vertical wall/ solo 6a? You'll work it out.

[Bonjoy]

Think it didn't go on pb.info due to initial access concerns, before someone noticed it was CRoW. I think it will be in the new BMC guide.

[RobinB]

Hmm - no low grade 7s - maybe not in such a rush to get there now

[cofe]

One very good 7b+. Worth the visit. Plus you get to see what Peak 8C (mistakenly graded 8B+ by the first ascenscionist) looks like.

[dave]

Anyone any idea how this joint fares after recent rains? I've only been once, during a dry spell, so I don't have much of a handle on it.

[T_B]

Great minds etc. Dunno about how dry it'll be but was planning to check it out Thurs after warming up at Tor..

[dave]

And then nip to the Roaches and then Rivelin to finish off the evening?

[turnipturned]

Not been this year, but I think once its dry from the winter its stays pretty dry! If you do go down, could you let me know if Badger Badger and Bewilderness is dry?

[Bonjoy]

I was there three weeks ago i.e. when Blackwell dale was virtually totally dry and Thread Nicole was still wet, everything else was dry. I reckon though, judging by the state of Blackwell dale now i.e. wet streaks all over the place, even on Beginner's Wall, that you'll be lucky if you find much dryness. Could be wrong though, I don't know the place well

[dave]

Yeah, we were on the end of an unseasonably dry spell a few weeks back. Led to a false sense of security, and dare I say it, a far too early limestone call.

[Johnny Brown]

You dare, Dave, you dare. Early calls equal wet summers. Youthful impetuosity.

[RobinB]

Went today for a look and most stuff looked pretty wet. Very impressive lines though

[Fiend]

You dare, Dave, you dare. Early calls equal wet summers. Youthful impetuosity.

Glad I'm not the only one that thought this!

[T_B]

Got round to checking Badger Cove out last night. All dry, apart from maybe the first hold on the Dandelion Mind. The 8A is f*ckin mega!

[El Mocho]

The 8A is f*ckin mega!

I'll second that - the best of the grade in the Peak (on Lime), although felt pretty hard! The top move is also really good - I was trying a wild jump/slap to the good pocket (had pads about 30ft to the right for correct landing position... Not done it but must go back

[T_B]

So did you set up for the move to the top pocket with your right on that big open pinch, then just throw again with the right? I'm gonna take a ladder when I go back...

[El Mocho]

Yes that sounds right, it was 2 to 4 years ago (can't remember when) though so not 100%. I had a ladder as I never stuck the move to the lovely pocket with the left. I kept taking massive swings (once I had committed to actually going for it) and slipping off at the apex of the swing and going f ing miles out right down the slope and nettles. In the end had my pads way out right which meant if I didn't go for it quite as much I would miss the pads on the other side... Someone said there is a vid of Ned doing it somewhere although the only one I had seen I think he falls off? (obv a vid of anyone would work for beta)

[T_B]

Cool. Yes, I thought I'd post my vid as a so that folk would go and do it and post a full beta vid 

[abarro81]

the bit at the start of this is the only footage I've seen before, cuts after Ned does the big move with his LH. Looks mint, will have to get there this summer. Is that right hand hold very crimpy or is it ok as a gentle day for the pulleys?

[T_B]

Is that right hand hold very crimpy or is it ok as a gentle day for the pulleys?

I suppose it depends whether climbing 8As is considered a gentle day for you? I have to crimp it, and I tend to drag everything if I can. By Peak lime standards it is big and actually a really nice hold, but you're not going to be gently reaching static to the pocket up and left.

[turnipturned]

Badger Badger Badger beta:

Same a T_B, until the right hand crimp (Barrows, quite a slopey crimp but nice and uniform so not too tweaky), the LF on a choice of three some spiky foot holds on the pillar , I kind of clamped with my right foot on a smear. Big move to the slopey pocket with LH (best if your left foot stays), then flag with RF and RH come into an undercut, then RF onto an obvious spike. Change RH into an undercut pinch just above it. Then launch to the pocket. BFree has a vid on his phone (slightly different beta to me), get him to upload it on vimeo. Grade wise, I don't think it was too bad and can see why varian gave it 7c+ initially.

It was well dry there yesterday, but needs an easterly wind to be in primo condition!

[SEDur]

Is this in the new BMC guide?

[haydn jones]

yes

[BRidal]

Unsure if there is a proper thread for conditions at Badger cove but this seemed the best bet. Is anyone aware of what it is like there at the moment?

[T_B]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25977.0.html

Not been but went a fair bit last summer. Judging by the condition of Blackwell Dale at the mo I'd say it's definitely worth a punt.

[BRidal]

Went down today, everything was in good nick except Thread Nicole which was more dirty than wet. The driest I have seen the place, better than last year.