[the_dom]

Re: Bleau's Art - agreed. I was quite taken aback, and for some reason the woman trying the problem couldn't seem to understand why I was grumpy as a result.

Experienced similar at 95.2 recently, German girl working a problem her fella had just done. It was just about in the shade and I was keen to get on it before the sun got on it so asked if I could join in. Seemed his English was better so he agreed and explained I wanted to try it to at which point her face dropped and as soon as I put my shoes on she took hers off. Had a couple of goes but realising I wasn't welcome I wished her luck and left her to it to try something else. I returned just as she was leaving at which point she was very friendly despite having not been successful, her English had improved a lot too and she gave me some beta and wished me luck.  Change from a grumpy frau to a very pleasant girl, kind of odd, obviously feeling some sort of pressure or focus that was broken by the presence of somebody else.

It's strange - Font is the only place I've ever experienced this. There's definitely no culture of it at, say, Rocklands or in the Peak.

[nik at work]

And I'm late again...

Before we start, what's with all this problem hogging in Font? I remember a few years back having to be quite forceful to get a go on Barre Fixe whilst it was unsuccessfully full day sieged by a unwelcoming group of Spanish cool guys. Luckily I only needed one go... 

Anyway...
STG - Gotham extension, and post more promptly on power club.
MTG - 8c (get on MIF start of June if it's dry?, Mini Sukarra, Margalef, Nov - see you there Kelvin )
LTG - 9a
BHAG - Bruderliebe

M - Bolting, almost fully bolted now. Then both me and Doug have a play on his left over project from last year. Dougs first go is shocking, then I flash it on top rope to the last move, then Doug top ropes it cleanly. He thought it was going to be 7c+ last year but given the time it's taken current thinking puts it at 8a. Which probably feels about right to me.
T - BM session
W - nothing
T - bike ride
F - Finish bolting, yay!! Grim weather though so no climbing.
S - Have a retro flash attempt at Gotham (8a), completely forget the sequence but feel stronger through the steepness, come off on the technical balancy moves at the top through ineptitude rather than pumpedness. Then have a quick look at the continuation through the roof, has a couple of wet holds but manage the moves. Doug has another redpoint at his project and falls grabbing the chains, this route is putting up a serious fight!
S - Nothing

Good week, finishing the bolting was relieving. It's really hard work, and a long walk in lugging the drill etc. Kind of makes you realise just how much effort has gone in to bolting whole crags/areas and how easy it is in the UK/Spain to just get on another route. Mind you it's all very life affirming and satisfying new routing, even if it is largely fuckign around on ropes rather than actually climbing.