[r-man]

I thought he was miles off, since Jan also struggled on the same move of the same problem weak shoulders likely wasn't the reason for failure.

Yeah, on that particular problem it was the wrong analysis. I was giving him credit for spotting that Ondra has weaknesses, even if he didn't pick the right moment to talk about it, or understand that it's more to do with foot-off climbing than shoulder strength. But that's where the AJ as the expert climber could have added some detail to the discussion, rather than just saying Ondra's great at everything.

Shauna showing Adam who's boss...

Revenge for Ondra running running over to shout "I'm the best and you suck!"

He may not have actually said that, but...   

[Fiend]

I agree with pretty much all the positive comments posted above (including understanding why AJ might be raising the nutrition (not just "weight" IIRC) issue), and of course the complaint about the internet connection dropping at annoying moments.

I was a bit surprised that Ondra didn't crush the more techy problems as easily as hoped. Megan was super-impressive.

F2 was great, really cool to see so many different ways. Females seemed to get burlier problems in general aside from that? F4 looked like a good finish for it's sheer difficulty. M3 and M4 maybe should have been swapped for better excitement value, M4 was fun by M3 clearly had more tension.

A good round I thought.

[Oldmanmatt]

I was a bit surprised that Ondra didn't crush the more techy problems as easily as hoped. Megan was super-impressive.

"Indoor Bouldering" is to "Outdoor Bouldering" as "Archery club meet" is to " Hunting Grizzly bears with a home-bow"...


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[petejh]

I'm assuming the people commenting on the issue of Puccio's weight are aware of the podcast interview in which she discusses in some detail her recent weight loss:

    Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
    Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
    Why she doesn’t have enough sponsor money, and what she’s doing about it
    How she lost weight, and whether or not she’s anorexic
    What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
    Lots more – she’s very honest and open

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-021-alex-puccio/?portfolioID=3838

I started to listen to it.  I had to stop because I DON'T WANT TO BUY YOUR FUCKING CHALK PRODUCT THAT YOU'RE BANGING ON ABOUT FOR FUCKS SAKE.

But, in order to be civic minded, I listened to it more, just for you.

Minute 55 in the epic tale, that's where it's at.  Approximately.

* 12% body fat
* BMI is in the middle

At about 58 minutes, to be fair the interviewer asks a key question - have your periods stopped.  She says "yes"-ish.  But puts this down to contraception, not weight loss, which is actually a reasonable answer.  Later she says she's aiming to get down a bit to 116lbs or so - a bit less than she is now.

This would put her BMI at about 20.  BUPA says this is OK.  Swimming world says it's underweight.  Neither is under the limit of 17, so that puts that to bed.

There was no need to listen just for me Lund - 'just to be (even) more well-informed than if you hadn't listened' seems like a perfectly good enough reason on its own 


off topic - and that chalk does sound pretty interesting, Stu L off of Malham was saying it makes a difference. So he should be sending 9a soon..

[Richie Crouch]

The friction labs stuff is a lot better than bog standard chalk Pete. You'll have to pop in the shop and see for yourself! I can sort you out with a thimble full of the test bag as it's a bit pricey! 

[petejh]

Haha bro-deal on a thimble of chalk sample yes! I'll reserve it for the hardest move on Made in Mascun next week 

[Muenchener]

Back in the day we used to go to the chemist and buy Light Magnesium Carbonate, which I (naively?) assume was what it said on the tin, i.e. pure magnesium carbonate.

So when did people start adulterating it with calcium carbonate and other cheap non-functional crap, such that getting real, pure magnesium carbonate (again?) is a big deal? And what's to stop me just going back to the chemist instead of to the climbing shop?

Slightly less  , didn't Pooch say in the podcast that she lost weight by hiking for two and half hours a day to get to & from boulders high up in the mountains, and slightly cutting down on sugary crap? Perhaps I'm naive (again), but it didn't sound to me like she was entirely lying.

[ghisino]

Slightly less  , didn't Pooch say in the podcast that she lost weight by hiking for two and half hours a day to get to & from boulders high up in the mountains, and slightly cutting down on sugary crap? Perhaps I'm naive (again), but it didn't sound to me like she was entirely lying.

i don't think weight loss is an issue of "how" but rather of "how much" and "how long".

-what body composition (weight, muscke and fat%) is the healtiest for a climber? (both in terms in terms of general health and of overtraining/injury issues)
-what body composition is the most performance effective for a specific climber and climbing goal?
-do the two above differ? What if they do? Is a temporary compromise possible? When does it become dangerous, ie too much time too far below an healthy weight?

etc...

[TheTwig]

I think for me what was tasteless about AJ commenting on Puccio's weight or lack of contributing to the injury was she had no idea what kind of fall led to the injury, and also saying it live on air to an audience of tens or hundreds of thousands. If someone had said that to me right after a major injury to say I would be pissed is a huge understatement.

P.s semis were shit. I got banned from the youtube comment chat for swearing at how unprofessional the camerawork, streaming, commentary was. ha ha

[a dense loner]

Hundreds of thousands? You were watching the climbing weren't you and not eastenders?

[Muenchener]

P.s semis were shit. I got banned from the youtube comment chat for swearing at how unprofessional the camerawork, streaming, commentary was. ha ha

The commentator wibbling on about moderating the chatroom struck me as a prime example of unprofessionalism. How is that supposed to be interesting or informative for the viewing public?

[Pako]

P.s semis were shit. I got banned from the youtube comment chat for swearing at how unprofessional the camerawork, streaming, commentary was. ha ha

The commentator wibbling on about moderating the chatroom struck me as a prime example of unprofessionalism. How is that supposed to be interesting or informative for the viewing public?

Yeah it was bloody stupid. The only thing that could be considered rude in the chatroom was complaining that Ondra screamed too much on M3 - not entirely unwarranted in my opinion.

[tomtom]

I think for me what was tasteless about AJ commenting on Puccio's weight or lack of contributing to the injury was she had no idea what kind of fall led to the injury, and also saying it live on air to an audience of tens or hundreds of thousands. If someone had said that to me right after a major injury to say I would be pissed is a huge understatement.

SPOT. ON.

You don't bust your acl because you've been dieting! It may be a contributing factor - but unless you have access to Alex's diet records and probably her blood chemistry you are certainly not in a position to say - or judge.

[a dense loner]

Why not? She used to look good now she looks like a ripped bag of bones

[benno]

<sarcasm>Ah yes, because the purpose of WORLD CLASS female boulderers is to look good. They should definitely do this at the expense of climbing V14.</sarcasm>

[a dense loner]

Alex is a friend, she doesn't look as healthy as she did and she could climb v14 before all the conditioning, she just didn't.

No sarcasm.

[benno]

Fair enough. I agree with the health concerns, and also that she was monster strong before she lost weight, but it seems like a lot of the criticism she's taking is based on the way she looks. It justs irks me a bit that she's taking way more abuse than someone like Patxi did when he was a muscular skeleton due only to her gender. Apologies if I took your remark in a way it wasn't intended. 

[a dense loner]

You don't need to apologise to me I'm a healthy 11 1/2 stone male who's never done anything.

[Oldmanmatt]

You don't need to apologise to me I'm a healthy 11 1/2 stone male who's never done anything.

That's ok, we still love you.


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[webbo]

Lots of people are prepared to look shit to be the best in the world. Look at the top riders in cycling it's not a good look.
You wouldn't want arms like Wiggins or Froome.

[fatneck]

Being a persistent and confirmed World Clock Fail Bellend, can anyone tell me what time(s) semis and finals are this weekend please? 

[fatneck]

So DYOR suggests that the semis will be on live at 4.30pm Sunday. Does this sound right?

[mr__j5]

No, I think you've got it the wrong way around.

They are 7 hours ahead of us.

So UK time for semis is 02:30 and finals at 10:00 on Sunday.

[fatneck]

Being a persistent and confirmed World Clock Fail Bellend

See?

Thanks

[SA Chris]

You don't need to apologise to me I'm a healthy 11 1/2 stone male who's never done anything.

That's ok, we still love you.


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Speak for yourself!