[GraemeA]

Men:
1. Adam Ondra
2. Jan Hojer
3. Guillaume Glairon Mondet
(Dmitry Sharafutdinov can hardly place top three since he will not get visa for Canada?)

Women:
1. Akiyo Noguchi
2. Juliane Wurm
3. Shauna Coxsey

Dima didn't have time to get a Canadian visa last year, he lives in Ekatrinaburg (west of the Urals) and would have had to go to Moscow. Maybe this year he will have time to get it sorted.

[Pako]

If Rustam could make a comeback it would be great. I think the last time a boulder world cup was held in Moscow was 2010. It was run pretty well though, nice routesetting. At least the qualis didn't get rained on like in Innsbruck, making lots of already climbed qualifiers useless... The incompetence of the IFSC really is astounding sometimes.

Rustam won the last WC of 2014 so what's this about a comeback.

Last WC in Moscow some of the wall fell down when Percy was setting.

Maybe the incompetence calling could be directed at the organisers as they are the ones that gambled on no rain

Well that's a bit shit about the wall in Moscow. Yeah you're right about that with the organizers, don't know what I was going on about, should be more bloody glad to have a world cup to watch and criticize.
I meant more about Rustam continuing his form in Laval and coming back from his inconsistent nature in 2014. Back to his 2012 and 2013 nature. So good to watch him on top of his game, absolute static beast.

[r-man]

Quali's underway for the Euros. Looks like Dave Barrans is through. Women starting shortly.

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1606

[monkey boy]

Dave Barrans through to semis in 10th place in European Championships in Innsbruck.

Ben West narrowly missed out, finishing 24th.

Nathan Philips, Matt Cousins and Orrin Coley all had tops on problems too.

Watch semis here - http://www.ifsc-climbing.org from 18:00 ECT onFriday 15th May.

[Reprobate_Rob]

Thanks for the heads-up, hadn't noticed they started on a Thursday.
Don't think Innsbruck operate on Ecuadorian time though 
CET is what you mean which is currently the same as BST, so 18:00 UK time

[monkey boy]

Oh yeah! Oops!

The World Cup rounds will be on a Friday/Saturday or a Saturday/Sunday but Innsbruck is the European Championships this year and so is over 3 days. Qualies today, semis tomorrow and finals on Saturday evening.

[Duma]

Leah's through I think. Is she the only brit girl there?

[monkey boy]

Yeah Leah got through in 19th place. She is the only British girl there as Shauna got an injury last week in training, although she hopes to be back for Toronto.

[Reprobate_Rob]

How's Michaela? Seem to remember she pulled out of the CWIF with a shoulder injury or something...do you know if she'll be competing in the world cup rounds?

[r-man]

Thanks for the heads-up, hadn't noticed they started on a Thursday.
Don't think Innsbruck operate on Ecuadorian time though 
CET is what you mean which is currently the same as BST, so 18:00 UK time

CEST, you mean? Anyway it's 5pm UK time, just checked here http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/converted.html?iso=20150515T18&p1=1889&p2=2321

[monkey boy]

How's Michaela? Seem to remember she pulled out of the CWIF with a shoulder injury or something...do you know if she'll be competing in the world cup rounds?

Shoulder is on the mend so hopefully.

[Duma]

Looks from fb like shauna is commentating

[bendavison]

How's Michaela? Seem to remember she pulled out of the CWIF with a shoulder injury or something...do you know if she'll be competing in the world cup rounds?

Last time I spoke to her it didn't sound like she was, but that was a while ago.

[Duma]

M3 and F4 seem a bit hard. Mens in general, 1 flash enough atm

[Duma]

Mens def too hard, ondra was obv best here along with Jakob, and very nearly didn't make it through. Having a slab and a trick dyno one mover as the only doable boulders  isn't great. 

[fried]

Mens looked nails, a bit too much of a lottery for my liking.

[Duma]

The Circuit makes good points as ever
"Well that was an interesting Semi, it raises a few questions for tomorrow for sure.
First, did Adam get his second foot on the start of 4 for his send attempt? You couldn't tell from the video but it looked marginal to me.
Second, will there be 7 to finals in the ladies, with two qualifying groups it should mean no countback to the first round.
Third, can they improve the coverage by the finals? Hopefully with only one guy and one girl out at a time we'll actually get to see some more climbing!"

[r-man]

Third, can they improve the coverage by the finals? Hopefully with only one guy and one girl out at a time we'll actually get to see some more climbing!"

Looked like the camera team was manned by non climbers, all under directions to film the Austrians as 1st priority, even when they are just standing around. And 2nd priority to get as many close ups as possible, even if it means the viewers can't actually see what's happening.

Frustrating.

[jwi]

Rustam came out with a strong haircut

[Duma]

Third, can they improve the coverage by the finals? Hopefully with only one guy and one girl out at a time we'll actually get to see some more climbing!"

Looked like the camera team was manned by non climbers, all under directions to film the Austrians as 1st priority, even when they are just standing around. And 2nd priority to get as many close ups as possible, even if it means the viewers can't actually see what's happening.

Frustrating.

Apparently local tv did filming, hence the austrian heavy and uniformed shots.

[GraemeA]

The Circuit makes good points as ever
"Well that was an interesting Semi, it raises a few questions for tomorrow for sure.
First, did Adam get his second foot on the start of 4 for his send attempt? You couldn't tell from the video but it looked marginal to me.
Second, will there be 7 to finals in the ladies, with two qualifying groups it should mean no countback to the first round.
Third, can they improve the coverage by the finals? Hopefully with only one guy and one girl out at a time we'll actually get to see some more climbing!"

Actually I disagree, Eddie is possibly just being a journalist (ie shit stirring) about Adam. Eddie was in Innsbruck last year with the shit storm that surrounded Adam being stopped. Eddie knows that what you see isn't always what you get. And Eddie knows that there are myriad eyes on each climber and therefore the mono view-point that is the webcast can be mis-leading.

[Duma]

Yeah I rewatched it after this comment and given his history you could see how he carefully touched his right foot to the volume on every previous go, so not concerned by the feed not showing it. His other two points are valid though, commentary def suggested mina was out on countback, and the camera work was poor.

[Pako]

Cool problems, but a tad hard as has been said before. Hopefully finals will allow more male tops. Quite interesting about Rubtsov going so well, perhaps that is because of his emphasis on outdoor instead of indoor stuff lately (well relatively speaking for a Russian climber). Perhaps the Gelmanator and Sharf should try the Puccio strategy and climb outdoors for a season. I can only hope. Anyone know if Schubert will be doing lead and bouldering this year? If he wins the overall against Ondra I will be overjoyed. It is just hard to root for someone that makes everything look so easy.

[jwi]

Quoi? Au contraire,  I've always enjoyed watching Schubert because he makes everything look easy. And he has great hair!

[Pako]

If Ondra was a reclusive beast that trained on a ramshackle board in an unknown part of the world like Sharafutdinov then I am sure I would go for him. And he needs to stop using heelhooks and other vestiges of technique, hasn't he watched Malc's video on how to climb strong?