[monkey boy]

Billy Ridal (junior category) finished 6th this weekend in his first EYC event in Langenfeld.

[Fiend]

Exactly what everyone else said about this last one: Good problems, good footage, good thrills and spills, good commentary, even the drama was good and fair. Pity about the sun on slopey problems, more shade and a couple of big fans would have been good. Melissa on F3 was epic, if F4 and F3 had been swapped it would have been the perfect end, although a pity no men came close to M4.

 

[Fiend]

Off topic but I watched the Cham IFSC lead comp and that was very good watching. The young Slovak girl 

[robertostallioni]

slovenian? only 16 but on podium twice in two events.

[Fiend]

I've got that nationality wrong twice in two completely seperate incidents, sorry.

Watching her in Cham was like watching an early Ondra. Sweating with excitement!

[jwi]

Slovakia or Slovenia, and Sweden or Switzerland, whatever. Countries that share the same 2-3 first letters are obviously the same...

[GraemeA]

Greece and Great Britain?

[jwi]

Nah... but Britain and Brittany are obviously the same place. And by the way: United Kingdom, England, Great Britain and The British Isles are all different names for an amorphous landmass containing 1-4 bigger islands and some smaller somewhere in the Atlantic Sea, obviously. 

[a dense loner]

Naturally 

[Durbs]

Cross-posting this from the BBC thread:

Finished me spreadsheet...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4TP9Sc1Esn8NElyQUY3Ql9WRlU/view?usp=sharing

Not sure if pivot tables work in Google docs (Should be able to download the original) - but you can expand country to view individuals.
I couldn't find a list of all podium places, so this is entrants by country, rather than podiums, but you can apply a filter to show (for example) only top 3 ranks by country.

Possibly of interest, total number of entrants in 2015 for Men (53) and Women (52). Previous years for both have been around 80-90. The double-China trip taking down the numbers?

[GraemeA]

I think that Munich will change that last stat, 215 entrants. Also Innsbruck being Euro Champs rather than a WC will have changed things a fair bit.

[Durbs]

I'll update it after that.

Other "interesting" observations (If you're a bit sad like I am...) - and obviously this might change after this weekend.

USA Men; previous 3 years; 8,10,8. 2015: 4 (Woods & Traversi doing everything from '09 to '14 which I didn't realise)
Team GB: previous 3 years; 6,5,4. 2015: 1

USA women - consistently high (at least 11 the last 5 years) and apparently the largest regular team despite lack of funding (and arguably success outside of Pooch).
French women - second biggest regular turnout

Taking this down to only count top 3 finishers at end of season

Men - Austria (6), Russia (5) - CZE, FRA & GER all with 2
Women - Japan (, Austria (6), GBR (3)

[mr__j5]

I was wondering why it felt like those numbers didn't add up.

That seems to just be a list of people that scored points.

So the Americans get a good representation because once a season they get to enter 24 competitors (or something like that) into one event and a good number of them get points.

Where as the Brits regularly have a decent sized team and often only a couple of them score points.

[Durbs]

I couldn't find a list of actual entrants, nor a breakdown by competition rather than season.

So yes, the Americans might be benefiting from a bit of a spray-and-pray approach in Colorado (and Vail) getting them up the ranking, whereas Japan seem to put in a consistently good turnout despite no local comps.

I was trying to decipher the IFSC world ranking scores, to see what it takes to get 1 point at the end of a season - I'm not sure if you have to make a semi-final, or just enter the quali's....

Also, just to clarify, my previous post should be Japan women: 8 - I don't just think they're cool

[sxrxg]

IFSC scoring goes down to 30th place according to this article:

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/5-ways-nathaniel-coleman-can-win-world-cup-munich

[Duma]

No British men through :-(

[Durbs]

Have men's qualis finished?
A couple of biggish names missed out,namley Levier & Bonder

Ty out by one bonus

[Duma]

Qualifications still going, but no brits still to climb. Think Dom Burns has a couple probs to go still.

[Duma]

Also, 6 Iranian entries! Looks like they'll get a semi finalist too.

[Duma]

How many ppl can a country enter? Seems odd that we're sending so few (3) to the biggest comp of the year, that's a cheap short flight away, when Iran (6) Argentina (5), Japan (7), France (6), USA (5) etc etc are all packing them in.

[Duma]

Correction, Billy Ridal is still to climb so still a chance and total 4 entries to the mens

[mr__j5]

Country allocation is something like 5 + anybody in the world top 10. Per sex.

Host country gets to enter loads more. It used to be 12 + world top 10.


I have no idea why we don't have a full team.

[jwi]

Yikes. 117 men and 83 women. Maybe there is a point in holding comps outside Europe after all...

[Duma]

Thanks J5. Yeah had guessed the host got more. Which Iranian is in the top ten then? I know Ben West is injured atm.

[mr__j5]

Just looked it up properly:

11.4.2:

a)   Any current Adult/Youth World/Continental Champion (only for the Discipline in which they are champion) at the start of the Calendar Year;
b)   Any competitors ranked tenth (10th) or above on the relevant World Ranking at the start of the Calendar Year; and
c)   for each Category and Discipline of the competition:
i)   Where the member federation is not the host country: up to six (6) further competitors; or
ii)   Where the member federation is the host country: up to eighteen (18) further competitors.