[Duma]

App seems to be updating now though, looks like leah only just missed out on semis. SBC out. Usual suspects all through.

[Duma]

Also, looks like all ten of the French team made semis!

[Pako]

Apparently Jan is not in semis?

[jwi]

that's how it goes

[fried]

Really happy to see Elsa Ponzo (who occassionally drop in down my wall for a session) get into the semi in only her 2nd adult competition.

[Duma]

live from 16:00 UK time here:


start lists
Women:

Le Neve Melissa FRA
Noguchi Akiyo JPN
Puccio Alex USA
Wurm Juliane GER
Gibert Fanny FRA
NONAKA Miho JPN
Stöhr Anna AUT
Johnson Alex USA
Coxsey Shauna GBR
Sa Sol KOR
Hayes Margo USA
Saurwein Katharina AUT
Durif Charlotte FRA
ONOE Aya JPN
Klingler Petra SUI
Payne Angela USA
Kruder Julija SLO
Sandoz Mélanie FRA
MartinMeagan USA
PONZO Elsa FRA

Men:

CHON Jongwon KOR
Schubert Jakob AUT
FUJII Kokoro JPN
SUGIMOTO Rei JPN
Bonder Jeremy FRA
MAWEM MICKAEL FRA
LEVIER Alban FRA
OGATA Yoshiyuki JPN
Kruder Jernej SLO
McColl Sean CAN
Dornauer Alfons AUT
Ondra Adam CZE
Holowach Jason CAN
Mecherzynski- Wiktor Andrzej POL
Scarperi Stefan ITA
Skofic Domen SLO
Cornu Manuel FRA
Glairon Mondet Guillaume FRA
Blaser Benjamin SUI
Coleman Nathaniel USA
Conrad Mathias GER

[Duma]

 
shauna out
and sean

[Duma]

and akiyo
and GG
and jernej

[GraemeA]

Nope, server froze again, we have the on-line results system working here but IFSC website and the app are not reading correctly

Finalists are

Melissa
Anna
Katha
Akiyo
Jule
Pooch

Manuel Cornu (FRA)
Nathaniel Coleman (USA)
Kokoro Fuji (JPN)
Jongwon Chon (KOR)
Adam Ondra
Alban Levier (FRA)
Jeremy Bonder (FRA)

[Fiend]

Bit of a shake-up with the men there eh!

Nice to see Pooch in.

F1 and M3 were a bit harsh it seems. F1 seemed neat in theory but just too minimal, one top due to lanking it, ugh. Could have been a good F4 though. M3 could have had one extra hold stolen from M4 (token fun problem) and it would have seemed a more balanced set.

[a dense loner]

Good semis I thought, only hope Alex doesn't come third like she seems to do if she qualifies first! No Jan, that's shocking. The guys that got through that we don't see a lot looked really strong!

Graham tell Eddie to get that thing off his top lip!

[monkey boy]

Apparently Nathaniel Coleman has been training by doing V9 boulders on the minute for 30 minutes!! Not bad

[Fiend]

Tape of doom! That's a bit shit really.

[Fiend]

I hope the route-setters faces are the colour of those pink holds on F1....

[abarro81]

 
That thing with the tape whilst matching the last hold on F1 is some fuckin' shit setting.

[PipeSmoke]

what the fuck is that haha, surely they realised it would happen when they put it literally an inch away from final foothold

[standard]

shouty man has so far got 3 peoples names wrong. impressive

[ghisino]

what the fuck is that haha, surely they realised it would happen when they put it literally an inch away from final foothold

i hope they did it purposely, even though i find it's a bad choice.

apart from that, all problems looked very good.

[Pako]

Well, I am quite sure no one could have predicted those male results... Nathaniel Coleman was a champ. Amazing that Anna Stohr can still win comps, what a beast. I hope that Puccio wins a comp this year, that would be great to see.

[Pako]

Also, the fact that only Ondra (of the top boulderers) got into the finals in this competition probably means that he has a large advantage in winning the overall titles.

[jwi]

That thing with the tape whilst matching the last hold on F1 is some fuckin' shit setting.

+1. Shocking

[ghisino]

i wonder how nobody talks about the winner.

first ever wc win aged 21, flashed the slab problem where many lost time with shit beta for the first move (despite obvious rubber marks on the holds pointed out how the forerunners climbed it...), looked ridiculously strong whenever it was just a matter of cranking the arm (last move of the 1st problem...)

And still he was far from "perfect". Looked intimidated by the big dyno on m1, could have topped m4 had he opted to jump instead of trying to go static, etc...




I was also quite impressed by the other young frenchman, manu cornu, who works as routesetter in one of paris' gyms. Quite the opposite from his teammmate, he looked physically weak compared to the rest of the pack, and clearly trashed pn m4, but solid mentally, giving a true 100% effort and not intimidated by the big double dynos...
Wonder if he could have done better on the slab with softer/less agressive shoes...



anyway if this comp isn't an outlier for some reason (such as a familiar routesetting?), things look good for the french team

[Duma]

Agreed ghisino, the french look great, even if GG seems a bit off form the last two comps.

[jwi]

anyway if this comp isn't an outlier for some reason (such as a familiar routesetting?), things look good for the french team

Indeed, the French team got everyone male as well as female through to the semis as well. That's very impressive (yeah, the comp was in NA, but still!).

[Duma]

Also, looks like all ten of the French team made semis!

like I said