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Mental Training (Read 7754 times)

Andy W

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Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 09:57:16 am
My issue is over arousal  ;). Symptons come on as I approach boulder problem, heart rate rises, legs go shaky, breathing becomes shallow.

I'm only suffering on problems that are long term projects or breaking into new grades.

The result of this affliction is under performance and general puntering, fluffing problems that should be getting sent, ie failure isn't due to lack of power etc.


I'm wondering if anyone has any links to good sites or indeed advice? I've looked at The Dave Macleod book which points the way to a few strategies.

Muenchener

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#1 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:09:12 am
Same here. I'm over-excited all the way up redpoint attempts, even if they're not particularly close to my limit.

I found Arno Ilgner's shorter book, Espresso Lessons, a good read. It's free of the Carlos Castaneda style bollocks that (apparently) infests his other book.

Nibile

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#2 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:11:42 am
Oh come on! We all know there's only ONE book to be read about this issue! And if you don't know which one it is, well I'm not gonna tell ya.  ;)

fatneck

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#3 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:14:11 am
I get this but only with fishing... :fishing:

Andy W

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#4 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:14:49 am
One thing that works a bit for me is Jerry's pro training tip video, when he talks about enjoying it, you're only here once etc. In fact I should copy that onto my phone!

Come on Nibile tell us  :)

lagerstarfish

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#5 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:21:42 am
One thing that works a bit for me is Jerry's pro training tip video, when he talks about enjoying it, you're only here once etc.

add to that "it's only climbing" or that thing Dave Graham said to the same effect

Nibile

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#6 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:23:26 am
One thing that works a bit for me is Jerry's pro training tip video, when he talks about enjoying it, you're only here once etc. In fact I should copy that onto my phone!

Come on Nibile tell us  :)
You're closer than you imagine.

abarro81

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#7 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:25:59 am
Smile, try to remind yourself to enjoy it, accept that you might well not do it that day/trip and that that's OK. Never think about 'what next'

Andy W

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#8 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:33:11 am
One thing that works a bit for me is Jerry's pro training tip video, when he talks about enjoying it, you're only here once etc. In fact I should copy that onto my phone!

Come on Nibile tell us  :)
You're closer than you imagine.

Do I need to re-read Jerry's book for a third time?

bendavison

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#9 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:33:49 am
Try and just think about the climbing rather than doing it. Break it down and focus on one section at a time. I've found that works for routes anyway, I don't care about bouldering enough to get nervous! Maybe try and care less?

Three Nine

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#10 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:35:41 am
Ted once gave me some invaluable advice when I was nervous about a redpoint attempt/'choking': 'get a grip its only a bit of rock'. I've tried to stick to this and now i tend not get stressed, which leaves much more room for having fun on the route/problem. If its not fun there is just zero point.

Nibile

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#11 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 10:55:36 am
One thing that works a bit for me is Jerry's pro training tip video, when he talks about enjoying it, you're only here once etc. In fact I should copy that onto my phone!

Come on Nibile tell us  :)
You're closer than you imagine.

Do I need to re-read Jerry's book for a third time?
Yes.

haydn jones

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#12 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:14:17 pm
I think i used to get nervous whilst I lived down south and I knew if I blew this attempt it might be a long time before I get another go. Now I feel alot more relaxed and know i can just come back  when ever I want. So basically my tip is make yourself available to climb outside 5 says a week

Andy W

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#13 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:21:43 pm
I just listened to Jerry's pro Tips, he's spot on really, because he acknowledges that 'it does matter', accepts the nerves as necessary, yet somehow; and this bit eludes me, manages them.

I've recorded it on my phone and I suspect that if I listen to that, before an attempt, just the fact that it lasts six minutes, which is probably four minutes longer resting than normal! might do the trick.

Doylo

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#14 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:24:30 pm
A few flutters is normal and natural but it shouldn't be affecting your performance. I used to get it years ago and I think it is something that improves the longer you've been climbing. Before I set off on a problem I just sit down for a minute to compose myself and let my heart rate lower. Try to push the final moves out of your mind and just take it move by move. An old cliche but  move by move is the way. 

Stu Littlefair

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#15 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:36:50 pm
This is the least useful answer I can think of, but the best thing that ever happened for reducing the pressure on me in all disciplines was a bit of perspective. If you can get on top of the fact that whether or not you get to the top of a bit of rock means nothing to anyone, the pressure will go away.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Andy W

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#16 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:40:50 pm
A few flutters is normal and natural but it shouldn't be affecting your performance. I used to get it years ago and I think it is something that improves the longer you've been climbing. Before I set off on a problem I just sit down for a minute to compose myself and let my heart rate lower. Try to push the final moves out of your mind and just take it move by move. An old cliche but  move by move is the way.

I've been climbing a long time! That may be another element. I feel I may be running out of time before experience etc, etc can no longer offset age related decline.

I don't take this all a seriously as it appears, honestly! But the mental side seems more important to me these days, for instance what makes the difference between the days when I feel light happy and strong and the days when I don't. Also the days I stress and the days I'm relaxed. I guess the relationship between these factors and all the other stuff, good conditions, skin etc make it all so interesting and compelling.

Doylo

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#17 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:43:03 pm
This is the least useful answer I can think of, but the best thing that ever happened for reducing the pressure on me in all disciplines was a bit of perspective. If you can get on top of the fact that whether or not you get to the top of a bit of rock means nothing to anyone, the pressure will go away.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

True Stu but it's what it means to yourself that causes the nerves.

TMR

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#18 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:46:00 pm
Im a big fan of "Mental Training for Peak Performance" by Steven Ungerleider. Pretty cheap on the internet and iv'e found it very useful.

cowboyhat

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#19 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:46:42 pm
NICE AND NERVOUS


grimer

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#20 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:50:44 pm
One of the best day's bouldering I ever had was years ago, on an evening at Stanage the day I had interviewed Marc le Menestral for OTE. He had just pissed the second ascent of Brad Pit and a bunch of other things too. The thing he talked about was enjoying the process, not focusing on the outcome. Enjoy every try and be involved in every try. I know it's the sort of thing anyone could say but it was really on my mind the following evening when I managed Deliverance, the Green Traverse and a variation on the Green Traverse for the first time - all problems I'd tried loads before. Marc's words really sunk in and removed that spectre of 'failure' that often hung over me. I've kept his words with me ever since.

ghisino

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#21 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 12:58:53 pm
One strategy that seems to work for me, in order to lower my arousal level, is to chat a little with my belayer, bouldering partners etc...
The degree to which it works depends on the topic and people...discussing crag beta with strangers works really well, so does making competitive jokes with friends trying the same route or problem.
It doesn't work with spotters or belayers that are either too involved or too bored.

Another one is breathing, actually it can work both ways depending how I do it.

webbo

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#22 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 01:02:30 pm
Does no one go for a walk and a dump these days. My how times have changed.

Doylo

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#23 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 01:02:50 pm
I find getting the optimum mental state tricky. You need to be relaxed but not too relaxed, whenever I try and gee myself up I usually fall off.

ghisino

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#24 Re: Mental Training
April 14, 2015, 01:07:48 pm
One of the best day's bouldering I ever had was years ago, on an evening at Stanage the day I had interviewed Marc le Menestral for OTE. He had just pissed the second ascent of Brad Pit and a bunch of other things too. The thing he talked about was enjoying the process, not focusing on the outcome. Enjoy every try and be involved in every try. I know it's the sort of thing anyone could say but it was really on my mind the following evening when I managed Deliverance, the Green Traverse and a variation on the Green Traverse for the first time - all problems I'd tried loads before. Marc's words really sunk in and removed that spectre of 'failure' that often hung over me. I've kept his words with me ever since.

Or it could be some form of posittive excitement?

I often get a certain boost when in the proximity of climbers I perceive as legends.