Lancashire Moors - Blackstone, Stony et al (Read 9783 times)

r-man · June 07, 2020, 08:19:29 pm

Memory is hazy! But I think it was a pull through for the top. And in the intro page for the Blackstone chapter, that's what it looks like I'm aiming for.

tomtom · June 07, 2020, 08:49:58 pm

Dang! Didn’t know that! Thanks. Yes looks like the top rather than the left arête from your body position. Nice pic.

JamieG · June 07, 2020, 10:36:47 pm

Nice to say hello (albeit from a distance) to you today Tomtom. Had a lovely time at Blackstone. Can't believe I've never been up before. The walk in has always put me off a little, but what a great moorland crag. Some really nice problems and not too harsh on the skin for moorland grit. Except it sounds like underdog was giving you a rough time on the skin. Will definitely be back for a few more problems.

YorkshireTea · June 08, 2020, 10:42:50 am

Quote from: r-man on June 06, 2020, 02:04:21 pm

Does anyone ever do The Wedge? I thought that was great but it doesn't seem to get much interest. Maybe because it's not in one of the obvious areas?

Did this yesterday, one of the best up there for sure

Also did project 14, p.293 (but starting slightly left) in the lancs guide on the miniblocks yesterday, it's a one move slap but not bad (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143679324@N05/49983815371/)

With a blackstone getting some attention, the first repeat of the hardest trad line up there (https://www.instagram.com/p/BxXTRq1jWRL/) is still up for grabs, very much a boulderers route with only a couple tough moves.

dunnyg · June 08, 2020, 10:51:41 am

Looks bold! Did anyone test the sling? Tryche has been on my long time list up there, but have only taken a rope up once for easy stuff.

YorkshireTea · June 08, 2020, 11:06:52 am

Never tested the sling, would be really interesting to see though.

Tryche, is great. Some balancy slab moves to a nice sloper then relatively steady up to a perfect cam slot at a height that's just getting a little spicy then probably the hardest off balance moves right at the end but should be an okay fall given how bomber the cam is.

2:02 for Tryche

dunnyg · June 08, 2020, 11:21:37 am

I saw your Tryche video the other day, it reminded me I needed to do it! Cheers for putting one up. Don't suppose you know what you rigged off at the top and the cam size for the slot (on tryche) ? Don't fancy lugging a whole rack up if I can avoid it...

YorkshireTea · June 08, 2020, 11:34:19 am

Think the toprope was just off a static round the big block on top and pretty sure the cam was a wc 1

dunnyg · June 08, 2020, 11:54:55 am

That will save me a few kgs, thanks!

JamieG · July 30, 2020, 10:34:04 pm

Did Mike's arête from a low start today, although not a full sitter (which seems super bunched and awkward) it adds a couple really nice moves to the stand.

Same start as Robin but different (and easier(?)) beta. Probably only 7a/7a+ this way, since I think the stand is probably only about 6c/6c+ anyway.

tomtom · July 30, 2020, 10:42:52 pm

Effort 👍👍 There was a FB video of a lad doing it on the lancs rock revival group - and the main difference for the sit rather than crouch seemed to be having the RH in the lower break (around the arête) at the same height as the Lh. He did start off three pads though.

It’s funny - I find the stand really quite balancy/tricky and it’s where my height works against me... it’s a great problem though.

Have you done the 7A on the trig point slab yet? That’s good.

JamieG · July 30, 2020, 10:50:23 pm

Yeah the sitter is definitely one where the more and thicker your pads the easier it will be to pull on. Although I guess it still would add a hard move to bump the right hand into the better hold where I started. Definitely felt easier to go straight up with my left, rather than trying to catch the undercut which felt very hard. Its a little knacky and you have to hold the swing a little but didn't feel too bad in the end.

I can see it being harder if you are tall. The move up with your left hand off the balancy left foot is a strange move and I could that being quite height specific.

What is the 7a on the trig slab? I don't have the guide, my brother has it and is away at the moment.

tomtom · July 30, 2020, 10:55:55 pm

Rh side of the slab. Just left of the arête - with no arête. 6C+ stand 7A from a sit... Low pocket then pebbles and ripples...

JamieG · July 30, 2020, 11:04:34 pm

Sounds good. I'll check that out next time I'm up there. I've done the arete from a sitter, which uses the pocket I think you are talking about. I imagine its pretty hard without the arete, definitely worth a look.

Tried to repeat Ape Hour and it felt horrendous. Right hand slopey crimp was so greasy, couldn't get anything out of it today. Didn't find it too bad last time. Summer grit I guess.

tomtom · July 31, 2020, 08:19:42 am

Yes was humid yesterday. Good effort.

JamieG · July 31, 2020, 08:33:10 am

Cheers tomtom. It’s a really good problem, definitely one of the best I’ve done at blackstone. Can’t believe I’d never been up before this year. Really good crag. Deserves a bit more love. Maybe the walk in puts people off.

steveri · July 31, 2020, 11:18:47 am

Same. Couple of visits starting last year, if it was in the Peak people would be all over it.

tomtom · July 31, 2020, 11:25:09 am

Quote from: JamieG on July 31, 2020, 08:33:10 am

Can’t believe I’d never been up before this year. Really good crag. Deserves a bit more love. Maybe the walk in puts people off.

Dove Lowe is great (longer walk in) - like a mini Almscliff. Cows mouth boulders are great too (quarry does less for me). Stony edge has some nice problems too. Did you get on Naomi's wall (think I recommnended that when I saw you there) - its 'only' 6b+ but a class and tricky problem. Home improvements area has nice problems too. Patopia is only a lowball shuffle but great.

dunnyg · July 31, 2020, 11:39:15 am

I have a soft spot for the quarry in general, and the highball HVS/E2 stuff is quite pleasant. The don, screwy, and other stuff on that wall. I'm a big fan of both blackstone and almscliff, so Dove Lowe is now on the list!

JamieG · July 31, 2020, 11:53:42 am

I'll have to check those venues out. Any particular recommendations in the 6c-7b range? I'll have to borrow the guide of my brother once he gets back. Bit harder to get to the longer walk in venues. I tend to only have quick sessions outside due to work/childcare etc, but I'll try accrue some brownie points to spend.

Yeah we managed Naomi's wall. Nice problem and quite tricky I thought. I think you said there is another 7a ish down that end somewhere that is really nice, but can't remember what it called. Nick's traverse?

tomtom · July 31, 2020, 12:00:14 pm

Quote from: JamieG on July 31, 2020, 11:53:42 am

I'll have to check those venues out. Any particular recommendations in the 6c-7b range? I'll have to borrow the guide of my brother once he gets back. Bit harder to get to the longer walk in venues. I tend to only have quick sessions outside due to work/childcare etc, but I'll try accrue some brownie points to spend.

Yeah we managed Naomi's wall. Nice problem and quite tricky I thought. I think you said there is another 7a ish down that end somewhere that is really nice, but can't remember what it called. Nick's traverse?

Yeah - that goes all around the large bloc below the ape hour block.... without using the top. hardest part is getting around the south corner... can be boggy in winter!! Dove Lowe is just a cool spot. Once got stranded there during a thunderstorm with no cover - and had to sit on my bouldering mat c.5m away from the crag getting piss wet through... thankfully no lightning near by. Rock there has some really great formations. Tangled up in Blue is great... Fatneck did a nice problem called Scrittle masala too.. All in the up to 7B range (except for a few harder things Mike Adams did that are not in the guide..).

JamieG · July 31, 2020, 12:32:03 pm

Cheers tomtom. I'll try check those out in the not too distant future.

steveri · July 31, 2020, 12:56:46 pm

This gives a flavour of Stony - http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/stony-edge/
Same parking as Blackstone and head the other way via Cow's Mouth. Longish walk but worthwhile, I'll be going back.
There's an update somewhere listing all the completed projects (always thought it quite generous to list these) from Lancs Bouldering and newer stuff but can't remember where now?

JamieG · July 31, 2020, 01:11:57 pm

Being based in Mossley, I've tended to walk into Blackstone along the Pennine way from the south side. Park near the radio(?) tower and then cross the spooky bridge over the motorway. Not walked in from the other side although I got the impression it was 50/50 anyway. Will have to use the other parking for Stony, Dove Lowe etc anyway.

Whilst this doesn't quite count as Lancashire, has anyone done Ditch Diggin at Alderman in the Chew Valley? Had a look at it a few years ago but it seemed very tricky. Meaning to go back, but some beta might be nice.

r-man · July 31, 2020, 03:58:25 pm

Quote from: JamieG on July 30, 2020, 10:34:04 pm

Did Mike's arête from a low start today, although not a full sitter (which seems super bunched and awkward) it adds a couple really nice moves to the stand.

Yeah, I reckon the crouch start is the nicest version. The full sitter is for completists.

Here's the sitter vid Tom mentioned earlier. https://m.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682?view=permalink&id=2721715538073877

Maybe 7A stand, 7A+ low, 7B sitter?