[fatneck]

Thought these edges could do with their own thread...

Blackstone was windy as **** on Saturday but otherwise in good nick. Back edge boulders mostly not too boggy. Class venue, very keen to go back!

[dunnyg]

How long does mikes arete take to dry ish? It looked like it might take a while die to the green ness last time I was there. Any experience?

[tomtom]

How long does mikes arete take to dry ish? It looked like it might take a while die to the green ness last time I was there. Any experience?

Not been for a while - but given the dry spell I recon there won’t be much green.. that tends to accumulate over a damp period. .

If it’s windy at all it will dry very fast - the holds are all cleaned anyway.

[dunnyg]

Thanks, when its next stops raining for long enough i'll have a look.

[tomtom]

Thanks, when its next stops raining for long enough i'll have a look.

Blackstone has problems facing most directions - so even if it’s showery some thing will dry fast.

[dunnyg]

True, Mikes is the main reason I am keen to return though!

[r-man]

Yeah, that bit of rock is green but dries fast.

Does anyone ever do The Wedge? I thought that was great but it doesn't seem to get much interest. Maybe because it's not in one of the obvious areas?

[r-man]

Blackstone was windy as **** on Saturday but otherwise in good nick. Back edge boulders mostly not too boggy. Class venue, very keen to go back!

It's a wind magnifier! I don't go if wind speed is in the teens. On the plus side, gentle summer breezes are ideal up there.

If you turn up to the car park and it's too windy, a good backup is nearby Higher Chelburn.

[tomtom]

Yeah, that bit of rock is green but dries fast.

Does anyone ever do The Wedge? I thought that was great but it doesn't seem to get much interest. Maybe because it's not in one of the obvious areas?

Is that the 7A+ down the hill. Big flat top low boulder with overhang on downslope end?

[dunnyg]

the green was wet, but the holds were dry. lovely up here and connies arent bad!   

[r-man]

Does anyone ever do The Wedge? I thought that was great but it doesn't seem to get much interest. Maybe because it's not in one of the obvious areas?

Is that the 7A+ down the hill. Big flat top low boulder with overhang on downslope end?

Only just downhill from the path, sort of between The Anvil and the Lady's Not For Gurning area.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BnjIMJoDi1p/?igshid=113cf6hhtsct

the green was wet, but the holds were dry. lovely up here and connies arent bad!   

 

[tomtom]

I think I’ve done it...

[dunnyg]

Had a do on fridge hugger sit. nails!

[tomtom]

Had a do on fridge hugger sit. nails!

Happy to provide some Beta... 😃

[YorkshireTea]

Had a do on fridge hugger sit. nails!

Also got beta if it's wanted as there's lot of options it seems

[dunnyg]

Beta is definitely welcome. ive seen some videos but felt like i was missing something ...

[tomtom]

4 methods I know of (YT May know others!) - all on YouTube except last.
 
1. Robins (Rf up)
2. GCW’s (Thuggery 😂)
3. Jez Drabbles way (LF up)
4. My way (left foot up with a knee on the lip to help)
5. Naomi B had a completely different way in an insta video.

Hardest part for me was getting my left foot up (flexibility and lack of anything to push off to get up there) but once it’s up it’s tricky but quite do-able. You can practice that move from a crouch/stand too.

[dunnyg]

Getting lf up feels nails. I did think of naomis beta about 4 hours after leaving the crag. Next time!

[tomtom]

Getting lf up feels nails. I did think of naomis beta about 4 hours after leaving the crag. Next time!

I worked out that I could get the top of my left shin (just below knee) Held under the lip (hands/arms in compression) to then place the tip of my right shoe (stiff soled shoe) on the little nubbin cleaned under the roof. Then I could put weight on that right toe every so carefully and use it to udge/push my left toe onto the lip. I’m not very flexible...

[dunnyg]

Flexibility is also not a current strong point of mine... Your video is much clearer when not watching on a (shit) phone screen.
There is nothing like a good knee scum, there are too many beta options, which is always a nice problem to have!

[tomtom]

Flexibility is also not a current strong point of mine... Your video is much clearer when not watching on a (shit) phone screen.
There is nothing like a good knee scum, there are too many beta options, which is always a nice problem to have!

For me crux was getting right toe to stick on the FA under the roof... throwing the left toe on from there went from a 25-80% move fairly quickly..,

[dunnyg]

Interesting, would have thought the foot up was the crux. When my skin returns I will get back up there and have another play. Have you ever tried the sit to mikes?

[tomtom]

Interesting, would have thought the foot up was the crux. When my skin returns I will get back up there and have another play. Have you ever tried the sit to mikes?

It’s kind of part of the same move. Getting right toe to stick so you can drop the left leg in order to flick the left onto the edge. It’s quite core intensive keeping that all together. Once it’s on the edge you can actually adjust the left toe with some udging (as I do in my vid). My clip is a reall shit ascent - I did it the week before much better then dropped the last move...

Mikes: well there’s the crouch at 7A+ and the sit at 7B. Both much harder... come close on the crouch the sit is nails - think Robins the only one who’s repeated that...

Also worth a look at the SS to Naomi’s wall - (NW is a 3 star 6B imho anyway). Done ape hour? Basic but very satisfying... and Nicks traverse 7A+ still evades me (one for velcro day I think..). Trig point slab SS 7A is a super slab prob I’ve come so close on too... ok ok mornings before sun comes onto it.

[r-man]

Fridge Hugger...

The thuggy beta was done by Gareth who created peakbouldering, not GCW.

Naomi's way with the knee looks cunning.

Another vid I saw recently.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBF4FbcD715/?igshid=kagn5ds8t33j

Mike's Arete...

What I did was a crouch start, from rh low on the arete and lh sloper. It felt about 7A+/7B. Good moves.



SS to Naomi's wall...
Seems nails/morpho!

Trig slab sit (Trig of the Light)...
This whole boulder is really nice. Also one of the fastest drying at the crag. Useful for damp days.



Nik's Trav... Just realised there are a few decent 7Aish traverses. Nik's Trav, Patiopia, Pony Club and Long Distance Echo (added last year, end of this vid...)

[tomtom]

Robin - to test your memory - spent some skin on Underdog today - and could get to the position in your pic (Big pull out to the right arête with a heel-toe on the right) but got a bit lost / indecisive what to do next. Heel round to the left and get the left arête then top - or go for the flat edge top direct... I was tired - and bleeding... :D