A bit of catchup as I had no internet no last week.
2015 Goals:
Bouldering Pyramid:
7B: 0/1
7A+: 0/3
7A: 3/9
6C/6C+: 4/27 - 0/13 slabs/aretes
Sport: Do more sport, get in to redpointing properly
Week 268:
M: Woody Session, core workout and dips on rings.
T: Routes session. Half hour ARC training on the autobelay while waiting for partner to turn up. Boredom levels meant I probably increased the intensity a bit too high at times - got pumped out of my mind on laps of the 6c+/7a, didn't expect to complete one lap of it, never mind 4. Injured my toe while belaying
. With adrenaline flowing, I didn't think it was as bad as it was and jumped on the red 7b+. Got halfway up feeling good for the flash, then reached a move where you have to really toe in with the left foot. Ow. Session over.
W: No sleep, toe is swollen and all sorts of bad colours. NNFN. Still, with a long climbing trip coming up, the timing isn't too bad. Ends my hopes of sneaking away for a cheeky morning of sport climbing though.
Th - Su: Non-climbing trip. Eating and drinking too much and lots of walking (hobbling) around. Small amounts of stretching and elbow rehab in the mornings.
Week 269:
M - Tu: Non-climbing trip. Eating and drinking too much and lots of walking (hobbling) around. Small amounts of stretching and elbow rehab in the mornings.
W: Bouldering with the comfortable shoes on, just about able to keep them on long enough to do a problem. Not able to weight small chips yet though.
Th: Repeaters, yoga and elbow rehab.
F: Bouldering, Good session, mostly projecting the V6+ set. Short board session at the end, my benchmark problems are starting to feel a bit easier. Toe is now down to minor discomfort when wearing normal shoes so it can't have been as bad as I first feared.
Sa: Churnet. Wanted to check out some new areas now I have the new guide but after a bit of overnight rain, we stuck to where we knew the rock would be completely dry. Repeated a few problems up to 7A, then working a bunch of new problems ~7A/7A+. Wright's Unconquerable feels so close yet so far. Simple Simon felt hard, I wasn't close to the match on the second move. The Undercut feels desperate but I have since seen some sneaky beta that I'll have to try next time. The Old Sloper Problem might go next time. Rocket Ride still feels hard but I touched the last hold a couple of times so it isn't far off. Still can't do High Speed Imp Act at the end of the day when I'm tired, must get on it earlier next time.
Su: Wintour's Leap. Easy trad multi-pitching. Still getting used to evaluating gear placements and learning to be more efficient setting up belays etc. Perfect day for it with some great views.
Ban-y-Gor. Finished off the day with some 'easy' sport climbs. Dogged a 6b+ which was 10m long with no difficult moves. Not sure whether to put it down to fatigue, poor route reading or struggling to get out of the easy trad mindset. Will have to go back there for a full day of sport to see if I fare any better.