[nai]

also pleased to do Parabellum http://bleau.info/canche/11986.html which I enjoyed

Cheers, that and Gros Doigts next to it on the list with Grande Marche.

[Jaspersharpe]

Although it wouldn't feel like a Font trip without a few desultry tries on the uninspiring roof crack 7a at Canche..

Grande Marche??  By that daft 8a backwards jump? Planning to have a look at that, short of stuff to go at that doesn't go sideways.

Worth doing. Footage of some punter doing it here with bonus pisstake Shakira soundtrack from lagers.



The sitstart next to Parabellum, Gros Doigts is also ok and pretty soft for 7A. It's just two moves into the blue stand.

http://bleau.info/canche/11987.html

[cha1n]

Grande Marche??  By that daft 8a backwards jump? Planning to have a look at that, short of stuff to go at that doesn't go sideways.

Yes that's the one, it's not particularly good though.

Seeing as you'll be most of the way to Petit Bois, I'd recommend going and doing La Baleine (7A+) if you haven't. Top quality. Big Jim is there too and is another quality, highball 6C.

[Jaspersharpe]

Yes that's the one, it's not particularly good though.

True, but if you're only there for a week and are doing the compulsory trip to Canche for the family then that and Gross Doigts are worth doing. If only to get a couple of pretty amenable 7 ticks under the belt!

[fatneck]

check out the style (50s in), complete control

Ha! Sketchy! I was trying to do the slap out left from the right hand sloper/crimp hold... Didn't think about going again before doing the slap! Another one for next time...

[nai]

Staying about 10 mins from Petit Bois but mate in Melun is probably closer to an hour and doesn't rate the place.  Got it pencilled in for an early morning or evening raid, I usually get out at first light a couple of times, beautiful being alone in the forest at dawn, as long as it's not Cuvier.

[sidewinder]

beautiful being alone in the forest at dawn, as long as it's not Cuvier.

You're never alone at Cuvier

[Jaspersharpe]

IIRC La Baleine could do with a spotter to stop you tumbling down the hill if you fall off. I only tried it once in the worst conditions I've ever experienced but I remember it feeling a bit spicy greasing off the slopey break.

[Sasquatch]

I hate you all.

+1

+2
I'm filled with jealousy and sadness. How have I still not been to Font? it's a mystery.
 

[nai]

Yeah it is a tricky landing, flattish but rooty and lots of directions you could spin off in so needs coverage.  Planning to borrow the entire party's pads overnight and hope 4 is enough.

[Will Hunt]

Me, footwork and another will be arriving on Friday night. Staying for a week in courtilles du lido camping. If you see us then come and say hello! Never been to font before so not sure what I'll be getting on. Hopefully the classics in the low to mid 7s.

[Mike Tyson]

I hate you all.

+1

+2
I'm filled with jealousy and sadness. How have I still not been to Font? it's a mystery.
 

+3

You pack of bastards (coincidentally, my autocorrect just changed bastards to bad tarts)

[Sloper]

For those not going to Font why not go to Northumberland?

[kelvin]

Sas may struggle with that one too...

[tomtom]

For those not going to Font why not go to Northumberland?

Why go to Northumberland when there are lots of dank quarries in Lancashire to behold! Just think what you're missing all you Font-ers. Happy days *squelch*

Stuff your fancy pastries - I'll be filling my boots on Pain au Eccles and Pot Chaud.

[205Chris]

Unfortunately I'll be heading back this Saturday from a fortnight in the forest  . Pretty jealous of the forecast for next week, it's rained about 50% of the time we've been out.

A few comments on the various above posts:

Petit Bois is a great venue. La Baleine is one of the few problems that climbs as well as it looks. I did it with 3 pads and no spot and fell from the lip move a couple of times and it was fine. I think it looks / feels scarier than it actually is.

Being Easter week the usual venues of Cuvier / Sabots and Franchards will be rammed (both sides of the Cuvier parking looked full as we went past it today) so maybe search out the quieter venues if you want to avoid the crowds.

Although quite far north Beauvais Guinguette seemed like a quieter spot with a kids circuit and 4 other circuits.

Some problem suggestions to take or leave:

Onde de Choc is brilliant and a popular first 7B, although a few mats and a spotter make it nicer

Coup de Tonnerre at la Feuillardiere is a bold star 7A, very amenable at the grade. There is a kids circuit area you walk through to get to it.

If you go to Rocher Canon then Chainon Manquant (avec arete) is a very good problem. Given 7B+ in the guide but maybe more peak 7B 

[lagerstarfish]

bastards

you'd better post some motivational stuff about your exploits, because next week I'll be living my dreams through you lot

[fatdoc]

+1 for bois road. Not had viper trouble there myself. Well reminded.. I'll go there one day foe sure.

Only petit boos off been dry there for a while. Takes time to get out of its winter shroud??

[205Chris]

Only petit boos off been dry there for a while. Takes time to get out of its winter shroud??

Although I didn't see the whole place the majority of it was clean and well chalked this week, certainly all the popular stuff (Big Jim / La Baleine etc.)

[fatdoc]

Excellent. Thanks for the info

[Sloper]

The other thing to worry about are the frelons (hornets) that will be waking up soon, more dangerous than vipers.

[fried]

I'll be out and about on either Sunday/ Monday and probably Thursday. Everywhere 'll be rammed, so might as well have a fun weekend.

The Blue/red are much better than the orange at Bois Rond, which is why canche is the safe family bet.

Mind you what with all the dangerous wildlife coming to life this week I might stay indoors.

[fatdoc]

Sloper is playing the scare us all to stay at home card...

Never seen those fuck off hornets this early.

You will however be stung to death in the summer, once the snakes release you 

[fried]

6 years in the forest and all I've seen is one measely grass snake.

[Jaspersharpe]

Sloper always sees loads of stuff that's not there.