[lagerstarfish]

on John Gill's history of bouldering site I noticed this boulder at RHS

http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History1.0.html



and more importantly, I read

The man sprawling on the narrow ledge at the corner has got there simply by using his hands, and without utilising a certain step underneath that would make the whole thing easy. He has now to stand upright against the overhanging top of the boulder and pull himself up.

sounds like this refers to the hanging crack (Flipper), which gets 6A in todays French money

photo and description was in Climbers Club Journal 1903

 cool

I've emailed John letting him know the location of the boulder  (and that it features in the background when Westley fights Fezzik in The Princess Bride film)

[lagerstarfish]

and this made me laugh

Our Sheffield hosts are in the habit - from strictly scientific motives, of course - of eliminating the more convenient holds from any given climb, much in the way a crafty examiner leaves out the handiest logarithms; and so they can set the newcomer some particularly severe exercises. A certain face climb, for instance, was stiffened by the imaginary removal of a large boulder; and it was gratifying to the Sheffielders to see how regularly their guests dropped off on the rope as, one by one, they reached the level of this desirable stone.

sound familiar?

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Thanks for that, Lagers.

That's a great article by Gill, isn't it.

I particularly appreciated the reference in paragraph 7, to "small bouldering rugs" 

I think they were using toupees up until that time.

[rich d]

Are you the one on the left lagers?

[Oldmanmatt]

Are you the one on the left lagers?

Nah.

He's on the right, doing something "inappropriate" to the rock...

[fried]

Is that brogues I see? 

[andy popp]

Is that brogues I see? 

Boom!

[andy_e]

Great bit of history there. Could perhaps lead to a new book, "The history of the eliminate." Coming soon to a bookshop near you. Featuring interviews with Swanny, "I didn't use the break, seemed like cheating," and the definitive beta on Green Traverse with essays for/against from Dave and Johnny Brown.

[Johnny Brown]

I'll take Swanny's beta any day.

[Sloper]

Great bit of history there. Could perhaps lead to a new book, "The history of the eliminate." Coming soon to a bookshop near you. Featuring interviews with Swanny, "I didn't use the break, seemed like cheating," and the definitive beta on Green Traverse with essays for/against from Dave and Johnny Brown.

The Pinches wall section will need to be covered with a 'wipe clean' finish for some purchasers  and -10 will have be for the over 18s only.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

The real sport, is the guy at the top, trying to gob on the one hiding under the overhang.. just like the urchins at the Heeley boulder!

[Falling Down]

I love Crowley's spidery handwriting topo. Amazing.

[lagerstarfish]

I love Crowley's spidery handwriting topo. Amazing.

can anyone put approx Font grades to those problems?

[mrjonathanr]

Surely that would be an intrusive anachronism?

Fiendishly Difficult? Diabolically Severe? Orgy symbols for quality problems?

Thelema Publishing should be strong on brevity merely indicating the historical line, the route description being 'Climb What Thou Wilt'

[r-man]

Good spot Lagers. Have added to the ukb historical lists.

http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Lists,_glorious_lists

[Jaspersharpe]

It'd be great if it turns out that the first 6A in the world was an eliminate in the Peak.

[Sloper]

V0+ shirley?