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Various Northumberland questions... (Read 11817 times)

mark20

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#25 Re: Various Northumberland questions...
February 07, 2018, 04:41:12 pm
I've never been to Kyloe  :sorry: This problem looks mint though, so maybe I'll make an effort this year.
Directissima is an odd one, in that it has a reasonable hold so it's more of a mantel/press type move rather than 'balancy, sharp pebbles, shit footholds, techy bollocks'.

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#26 Re: Various Northumberland questions...
February 07, 2018, 06:21:45 pm
Cheers Mark, a lurking rocket man promptly texted me with his 'mantle your hand' beta ssshhhhhhhhh

Fiend

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#27 Re: Various Northumberland questions...
February 12, 2018, 10:25:02 am
Haha, I'd generally take what I can get grade wise. But 7b+ For the Nadser seemed to be pushing the boat out even for me. Ukc peeps must be deluding themselves ;) How does it compare to other slabs of that grade in the uk? I've not done many given above 7b.

I would agree with delusions. But the more I boulder the more I realise how nebulous and intangible bouldering grades are, being almost entirely based around morphology and conditions rather than actual difficulty (unlike adjectival trad grades which are mostly based around objective facts).

In this case Nads felt like easy 7A+. Taking into account the conditions being beyond amazing, my having a very singular focus, and using seemingly rarer beta for the top, and votes from the delusional for hard 7B, I would take 7A+/B for it (don't worry, I never even thought about the +grade, just not an option) - not that "taking grades" is in any way meaningful, but if you're going to do it at least do it semi-sensibly.

In context and as some other examples, Spinal Slab took me <6 goes again in perfect conditions. Red Baron took me <6 goes but I would have flashed it if I'd chosen to slap my left to a slightly higher hold first go (I was using John Dunne knee beta). Sulky Little Boys took me several sessions, almost entirely due to morpho reasons as I have to jump to the 'good' arete gastons instead of reach them. The list of sub 7A problems I can't get near is probably 10,000 times longer. 7A+ is very much my limit. Conclusion, fuck knows, take an average of "what it felt like to me" plus "what the consensus is", factoring into account other people being idiots etc etc. Anyway I had fun doing it so I'm the best.

I do need suggestions for more conditions dependent slopey techy balancy problems in The County around the ~7A~ mark if anyone has them (feel free to give me appallingly sandbaggy 6Bs and farcically soft 7Bs). The weather is bloody cold at the mo and all that I think I've got left to do are burly roofs.... Northern Soul Iceberg Smooth Wall Belford T Justice etc etc I've done but they're exactly the sort of thing. Maybe I need to try ABs again huh.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2018, 10:30:54 am by Fiend »

Fiend

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#28 Re: Various Northumberland questions...
February 17, 2018, 08:21:56 pm
Back at Back Bowden today. Looked at Smooth Wall again (you know, the thing just right of Four Mats Wall that is 3 grades easier but not plastered in chalk), still can't make any sense how it works. Someone give me the full beta on it please. Dan? your time....

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#29 Re: Various Northumberland questions...
February 17, 2018, 10:40:16 pm
Hi fiend, not sure if you meant me? But I've never climbed there. One thing for sure though, downhill racer direct is significantly harder than the Nadser haha enjoyed the blogs still after all these years a good read 👍

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#30 Re: Various Northumberland questions...
October 09, 2018, 06:41:42 pm
Back at Back Bowden today. Looked at Smooth Wall again (you know, the thing just right of Four Mats Wall that is 3 grades easier but not plastered in chalk), still can't make any sense how it works. Someone give me the full beta on it please. Dan? your time....

Consider going to Caller Crag....

 

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