[Joepicalli]

Original trad grade, brief indication that it is now mainly highballed, font grade. V grades have had their day. And a little thank you to UKB users in the acknowledgements.

[Sloper]

Original trad grade, brief indication that it is now mainly highballed, font grade. V grades have had their day. And a little thank you to UKB users in the acknowledgements.

So:

Not to be taken away HVS 5c, climb the superb rising line on the down hill slope of the boulder.  May feel harder for the weak or those with poor technique. F5+

Or if culled from the chorus of morons contributing to grade debates on UKC 'worth 6c+ for the onsite, looser'.

But more seriously I do have something positive to contribute to the debate, but given this site is supposed to be childish, pureile and bitter I'll keep it to myself.

[205Chris]

Original trad grade, brief indication that it is now mainly highballed, font grade. V grades have had their day. And a little thank you to UKB users in the acknowledgements.

 

I think it's worth pointing out that most of the stuff getting highballed like Narcissus / Ulysses etc. are by teams of regular grit climbers who know the area well and are operating (for the most part) within their grade above a stack (i.e. double figures worth) of mats.

Advertising Ulysses as a Font 7A to visitors to the area (who are presumably a large percent of the target market for the guidebook) is only likely to increase the A&E admissions / MR callouts for busted ankles or worse.

[Fiend]

V & Font grades as the default grades, E-grades in brackets.

You want to provide the most useful, accurate information for people in the style they are going to climb it. The vast majority climb these routes as highballs with several pads, not as solos, therefore they should be graded as such. The E-grade provides addition information as to how highball the highballs are, as well as extra information for the tiny minority that will solo them padless.

Personally it's not of much use to me as I just buy BMC guides, but if it stops numpties claiming big E-numbers when they haven't climbed them, that will be something beneficial.

[Stubbs]

Advertising Ulysses as a Font 7A to visitors to the area (who are presumably a large percent of the target market for the guidebook) is only likely to increase the A&E admissions / MR callouts for busted ankles or worse.

I assume visitors will be as able as locals to use their peepholes to look at climb to see how big it is?

[Fiend]

....or the old skool E6 grade mentioned in the text or brackets.

[tomtom]

Advertising Ulysses as a Font 7A to visitors to the area (who are presumably a large percent of the target market for the guidebook) is only likely to increase the A&E admissions / MR callouts for busted ankles or worse.

I assume visitors will be as able as locals to use their peepholes to look at climb to see how big it is?

its getting late in the working day - its a friday. I read this and wondered why people would want to look at a rock through a small hole in a sheet of cardboard.

Then I understood :D

[205Chris]

Advertising Ulysses as a Font 7A to visitors to the area (who are presumably a large percent of the target market for the guidebook) is only likely to increase the A&E admissions / MR callouts for busted ankles or worse.

I assume visitors will be as able as locals to use their peepholes to look at climb to see how big it is?

You'd think that but in my experience there's no accounting for idiots.

[slackline]

this site is supposed to be childish, pureile and bitter I'll keep it to myself.

Ugly, primitive, juvenile and offensive (can't find the original quote, but the did find Chris's apology).

[andy popp]

It's a long time since I did it but Ulysses can't be 7A+ surely?

[andyd]

Ulysses should be E6. You should tick E6 only if you climb it without pads wearing knee high sport socks. It can be soloed above pads. The crux is at a height that can be highballed, but it's a route. You don't climb this like a boulder problem. It's a route.

Ditch the V grades. Seriously.

[kelvin]

V grades are going by the sounds of it.

[tomtom]

V grades are going by the sounds of it.

Fiend stuck up for them. So When it comes out with V grades in it we can all blame Fiend

[Sloper]

this site is supposed to be childish, pureile and bitter I'll keep it to myself.

Ugly, primitive, juvenile and offensive (can't find the original quote, but the did find Chris's apology).

Well I contribute at least 3 out of 4.

[tomtom]

I would agree you're not primitive Sloper

[kelvin]

I would agree you're not primitive Sloper

Definitely a sophisticate.

[webbo]

V grades are going by the sounds of it.

Fiend stuck up for them. So When it comes out with V grades in it we can all blame Fiend

At least with V grades you will be able to climb them wearing your spurs. Where as with Font grades who wants to go climbing wearing strings of onions.

[kelvin]

At least with V grades you will be able to climb them wearing your spurs.

Just don't use one of those airpads...

[webbo]

I was going to say wearing your chaps but I wasn't sure where that would lead.

[kelvin]

I couldn't possibly comment. It was fiend who preferred the V grades.

[webbo]

Fiend wearing chaps would be a significant event for climbing fashion.

[kelvin]

On the cover of the new Eastern Grit. Rivelin. Alter Crack. VS 4omg.

[Sloper]

JFCOAB I've read the discussion on the other side and what a load of fucking drivel and twattery.

7a =/+7a I can think of some 7b+s in Font i.e. Magic Bus that are easier than 7a slabs and so on, to say all 7a's are equally 'hard' is nonsense.

The idea that Kayak at Curbar is Font AD- is fucking hilarious and let's not forget that Strawberries is 4+ as a benchmark.

Anyway the wife will be downstairs soon so on y va.

[Sloper]

Fiend wearing chaps would be a significant event for climbing fashion.

Fuck I haven't thought of that, give me time.

[tomtom]

Fiend wearing chaps would be a significant event for climbing fashion.

Fuck I haven't thought of that, give me time.

Chaps, red camo under 'garments' and a pink Stetson (with a furry rim). It's a strong look. Webbo - I hope you could be there too with your matrons outfit