[Nigel]

Not a request for beta, but a freebie! I was reminded about this when looking at the Peak graded list.

Basically it's piss. Start by climbing *up* the arete from a sitter, worth it as its probably the best problem on the block. Now simply reverse the sequence to drop back down. I expect a glut of ascents of the full link    from the hordes of people who persist in trying it the "Moon beta" and keep falling off the drop down... :roll:

[jonP]

Sounds like a top quality problem.

[Nigel]

I wouldn't go that far. The arete is probably the ONLY decent problem on the business block, except maybe Zippy's traverse. I just thought this beta would probably be helpful to someone - could be a new angle to the whole beta forum - give out handy trick beta before people ask for it!

[a dense loner]

good in theory. however, it is an eliminate block so do it the eliminate way. shades of woodwell spring to mind :wink:

[Nigel]

Point taken. Stick to the strong man's way then!

P.S. There's only 2 eliminates at Woodwell.  :D

[a dense loner]

2 elims at woodwell, n i was only talkin about one of them got to be said tho you're right about the arete being a decent prob. i heard it given 7c+ a long time ago :roll:

[Nigel]

Bargain!

7c+ flash, happy to take it!  

Actually even the great McClure gave it 7c when he described Close of Business.  :roll:

[a dense loner]

did he not just say ben's into danny's? :?

[Nigel]

:?: Close of Business isn't Ben's into Danny's. You're thinking of the imaginatively named "Ben's into Danny's". Sounds a bit rude that :bang:

[a dense loner]

eh, so whats close of business?

[Nigel]

Zippy's into a reverse of Ben's extension. Shamone!

[a dense loner]

it must be very boring being strong n having stamina

[Ru]

Actually the drop down move is piss, by no means the hard bit of the traverse which is just a stamina thing. It's all in the toe hook, and there's a knack, but there's not much strength in it - I've done it in the worst full summer smeggy nick.

In fact I would have thought that reversing the sit start to the arete was harder, but depends on what sequence you use - were you going from the low sidepull (RH) and up to the pod with your left with the heel on? Incidentally I thought 7b for the sit start arete starting at the middle of the Jerry's traverse shelf on the good holds and shuffling to the arete before going up.

[a dense loner]

i can't get the toe hook to work :cry: saw andy h pathing this, n then sam. i tell myself it's cos i've got longer inflexible legs, but don't really believe it. not done the arete for a long time, but remember it not being anywhere near as hard as first suggested

[Nigel]

Yes Ru that was the beta for the arete. 7a+ I reckon, so 7b from the middle of the shelf sounds bob on.

You might be right about the drop-down move being piss, but I've seen enough people who can piss Jerry's and would obviously do Ben's Ext. but for the fact they can't do said drop down move. And they never seem to try it the "arete reverse" beta, so I thought it might help some people!  

[cowboyhat]

couple or few years ago me and sweaty feet saw percy at plantation, he claims the first ascent of the sit down arete. typically he says it v7+. five minutes later me and the young and talented are standing on the top. v7+ = 7b? It is easy to say its not, but then we were going well back then and 7b isn't hard at all.