[tomtom]

Front two are the best...

[Oldmanmatt]

It's more to do with the relative position of the pinky tip to ring finger tip.

With our tiny sample, there might be a correlation between a pinky tip that sits definitively below the the DIP of the ring finger and lower strength in both the pinky mono and the back two combo.

I'm thinking that, in that case, the pinky is not often engaged at all during normal climbing (for me, maintaining a four finger drag or crimp is harder than three) and a deeper crimp is required to even begin engaging the pinky.

Wondering if this leads to a much weaker pinky in general and because the ring is in a relatively deep crimp before the pinky is engaged, a vastly weaker back two combo.

In which case, there might be some serious constraints to training the combo.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

Here's some science to go with the photos

http://discovermagazine.com/2013/may/04-finger-length-ratio-can-predict-aggressive-behavior-and-risk-of-disease

FUCK OFF!! 

Oh, hang on I've an index > 1 so I'm a calm peaceful soul with a lower risk of prostate cancer :-/

[Oldmanmatt]

It's more to do with the relative position of the pinky tip to ring finger tip.

With our tiny sample, there might be a correlation between a pinky tip that sits definitively below the the DIP of the ring finger and lower strength in both the pinky mono and the back two combo.

I'm thinking that, in that case, the pinky is not often engaged at all during normal climbing (for me, maintaining a four finger drag or crimp is harder than three) and a deeper crimp is required to even begin engaging the pinky.

Wondering if this leads to a much weaker pinky in general and because the ring is in a relatively deep crimp before the pinky is engaged, a vastly weaker back two combo.

In which case, there might be some serious constraints to training the combo.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

It's more to do with the relative position of the pinky tip to ring finger tip.

With our tiny sample, there might be a correlation between a pinky tip that sits definitively below the the DIP of the ring finger and lower strength in both the pinky mono and the back two combo.

I'm thinking that, in that case, the pinky is not often engaged at all during normal climbing (for me, maintaining a four finger drag or crimp is harder than three) and a deeper crimp is required to even begin engaging the pinky.

Wondering if this leads to a much weaker pinky in general and because the ring is in a relatively deep crimp before the pinky is engaged, a vastly weaker back two combo.

In which case, there might be some serious constraints to training the combo.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A fair point. Except my pinky is quite long - and my ring finger longer than index.. so I'd have thought they were more engaged.

[a dense loner]

Yes, I needed reminding not to post things spuriously without adding a

Yep sorry I forgot to put my  , 

[tomtom]

Here's some science to go with the photos

http://discovermagazine.com/2013/may/04-finger-length-ratio-can-predict-aggressive-behavior-and-risk-of-disease

FUCK OFF!! 

Oh, hang on I've an index > 1 so I'm a calm peaceful soul with a lower risk of prostate cancer :-/

[Oldmanmatt]

I thought I'd Google up a study or two on human hand taxonomy, morphology and distribution...

There is a plethora of studies on Paeleo humans and other modern Primates; including population distribution.

Can't find a thing for "us".

?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[2 Tru]

Before anyone starts to complain about the hand life delt them:

[Muenchener]

I'm thinking that, in that case, the pinky is not often engaged at all during normal climbing (for me, maintaining a four finger drag or crimp is harder than three) and a deeper crimp is required to even begin engaging the pinky.

I sometimes notice I feel more secure in a three finger open handed drag than a four finger half crimp.

Hand pic here.

Repeaters on the BM 1000 deep 2 finger pocket: front 2 bodyweight, middle 2 +6kg, back 2 -20kg

[Oldmanmatt]

Before anyone starts to complain about the hand life delt them:

I've been shot at more than him, but it's not obvious what effect it's had on my back two hangs...

Kudos to the man though, I'd not heard that story before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk