[Will Hunt]

Just want to confirm what I did today. The new YMC guide indicates that this starts at the obvious flake and goes up, maybe trending slightly left. The only sequence I could put together today was to start left of centre and, using the obvious weird double crimp hold, to step up left to an unpositive crimp. With this, stand up with the left foot and grasp for the big flattie to the right.

Is this Phoenix Wall?

I tried the right hand variation: pull like fuck on the RHS of the weird double crimp with the left hand then do a hard rock over/dyno onto the obvious long, quarried-looking, foothold just above the obvious flake and either go straight to the top in a big jump or deadpoint the top seam. This felt really hard - has it been done yet?

[B0405413]

Hi Will,

The line for Phoenix Wall is wrong in the guide, I think what you did today is correct if I understand your description correctly. There are a few methods but mine was to rock over onto left foot with hands on the double crimp thing, get the awful left hand crimp, put left foot on a tiny foothold and dyno to the flat sloper at the top. The video that used to be on Yorkshire Grit showed a more static method but you'd have to be super flexible to be able to do it like that. Quality problem!

[dunnyg]

Hope you jumped on the routes while you are strong...

[Will Hunt]

Hi Will,

The line for Phoenix Wall is wrong in the guide, I think what you did today is correct if I understand your description correctly. There are a few methods but mine was to rock over onto left foot with hands on the double crimp thing, get the awful left hand crimp, put left foot on a tiny foothold and dyno to the flat sloper at the top. The video that used to be on Yorkshire Grit showed a more static method but you'd have to be super flexible to be able to do it like that. Quality problem!

That sounds about right, ta. A static method is quite impressive. Despite it being totally bomber, the left foothold that you stand on at the end feels crap until you really trust it and go for it. I wouldn't want to stand on that and then pick my right foot up onto the double crimp!

[Will Hunt]

A video. Everyone loves videos don't they?

[a dense loner]

Decent looking prob