just being psyched and climbing lots will put you in good stead
Ancap - last night I got on the smallest campus rail, foot on. 25 hand movements (around 30sec), 90sec rest, repeat and managed 21 reps of this before a blister developed on my middle finger. Maybe could have managed two more reps, was slightly pumped but powering out was the issue towards the end.
I'd focus on not overdoing it training and injuring yourself.Maybe some free weights for shoulders and back? See no mention of any core work either.
Pullups - I've seriously tried at various times to improve at these. I think I lack the signals in my brain to activate the muscles needed. I can manage three at best after a warm up. I managed five once, early last year. I can however manage two using the upper BM mono slots using my middle fingers. Go figure?!Hanging one armed - has to be four fingers, has to be a jug, can't manage it using the big BM slot and trying it on say the middle sized campus rail is just laughable. A shoulder stability issue? I've come to the conclusion, that the main thing holding me back is not fingers nor footwork but just shoulder and arm strength.
It sounds like you are trying to improve shoulder/arm strength by doing pullups on a fingerboard? If you have weak arms, the easiest way to improve them is to do pullups on a pullup bar.
I've considered getting a proper plan from a coach but to be honest, it feels a bit daft when I climb the sort of grades I do, I'm not exactly going to set Tom Randall's lattice board on fire. So I've been following Barrow's plan to a degree and trying to address issues/problems as they come up. Maybe I should reconsider this but who to ask? Northampton isn't exactly climbing central
Oh, by the way... The Italian doctor who made the campusboarding and fingerboarding mistakes videos, has a very good advice: do not do pull ups on a fingerboard. The high stress imposed to tendons and joints, teamed with the pronated prehension and the elbow flexion, build a very dangerous ensemble. I haven't done pull ups on a fingerboard in ages and never noticed the lack of them.
generally if I can do something, I do it within a go or two.
(don't really do sports outdoors)
Basically, the 'just go climbing' advice people offer hasn't worked for me at all
the expanding ones I've discounted as heard far too many horror stories.
I also wonder if stopping focusing on 'doing' problems will help you. How often do you try problems or routes that are way outside your perceived level?
Simply making a point of getting on a few more steeper, butcher - but safely bolted - sport climbs might be the way forward.
If you are good at roped climbing indoors you'd do well sport climbing in Spain. It is more or less exactly the same thing6 months of climbing is a lot to ask of the body. Without knowing you, from what you write you seem to have weak shoulders and an underdeveloped posterior sling. A good base is everything. You seem to have improved your climbing base by increasing volume. This is a good idea. You can let this phase last for 2 months more at least. The increased efficiency you get from doing lots of moves could even improve your bouldering.For preventing injuries I think you should ad a strength training program for at least 2 times a week for 5-6 months. Same again here: Start by building a base for at least 2 months. In the base phase, do 10 (3) reps for 3-5 sets. For the strength phase decrease to ultimately around 4(1) reps for 4-5 sets.I have written this program for my better half (she is at about your physical level but redpoints 8a on vertical ground, whenever she by some miracle hasn't been injured for the last 2 months):2times a week:With sling-trainer hanging from a pull up bar: (I made mine from a piece of rope laying around)1) Standing row2) Biceps rowwith dumbell:3) Dumbbell lying rowBody-weight:4) Push-ups (with weight-west as you progress)5) Pullups. Not more than what you can easily to for 3-5 sets with *perfect* form at 2s-2s cadence. This is probably 1 pull up at your current strength.2 times a week: core training on the swiss ball.
Quote from: kelvin on January 28, 2015, 01:20:43 pmAncap - last night I got on the smallest campus rail, foot on. 25 hand movements (around 30sec), 90sec rest, repeat and managed 21 reps of this before a blister developed on my middle finger. Maybe could have managed two more reps, was slightly pumped but powering out was the issue towards the end.Not really what you're asking but I find more gains from Foot-on-Campussing if I pause on each hold for 4s, on no climb anywhere are you going to make 25 hand moves in 30s, slowing down feels more relevant, it's harder but much more effective.
So i'll go in a bit of a different direction. You'll be in spain for 6 months. You will naturally develop endurance and technique applicable to the area once you're there as long as you're geting out enough. What you have 8 months to do is get your body and fingers a striong and bomb proff as possible. I'd say you should look at some overall body strength work, and as mentioned by Meunchener, you're going to be doing a fair bit of sport outside. Get used to doing more outside in general. walking, hiking, etc. outside now and being used to being outside and active 5-6 days a week now will all make a big difference while you're there. Second is to forget about endurance for a little bit. Work your strength and power. Using Barrows example, you seem to lack anaerobic power, and I'd guess anaerobic capacity as well. Quote from: nai on January 28, 2015, 01:50:18 pmQuote from: kelvin on January 28, 2015, 01:20:43 pmAncap - last night I got on the smallest campus rail, foot on. 25 hand movements (around 30sec), 90sec rest, repeat and managed 21 reps of this before a blister developed on my middle finger. Maybe could have managed two more reps, was slightly pumped but powering out was the issue towards the end.Not really what you're asking but I find more gains from Foot-on-Campussing if I pause on each hold for 4s, on no climb anywhere are you going to make 25 hand moves in 30s, slowing down feels more relevant, it's harder but much more effective.I do similar as 25 moves in 30s is just so unrealistic. instead of pausing though, I make myself do two foot movements for every hand movement. No time counting, but it seems much more realistic.
I was more than happy to take a back seat Alan - helped you achieve your goals.
I'd focus on not overdoing it training and injuring yourself.
Second is to forget about endurance for a little bit. Work your strength and power. Using Barrows example, you seem to lack anaerobic power, and I'd guess anaerobic capacity as well. Quote from: kelvin on January 28, 2015, 01:20:43 pmAncap - last night I got on the smallest campus rail, foot on. 25 hand movements (around 30sec), 90sec rest, repeat and managed 21 reps of this before a blister developed on my middle finger. Maybe could have managed two more reps, was slightly pumped but powering out was the issue towards the end.
at the grades the OP mentions, it feels like overkill to me, I can't help but feel a good volume of bouldering, at as hard a grade as mojo allows could suffice
Essentially, what I'm trying to say, in a round about way, is that the OP shouldn't get too hung up on systematic training. At least not at the expense of enjoyment or risking injury; unless you prefer such work-outs to a more free-form approach. If not, just climb a lot. Get used to pulling hard. Get used to falling in the pursuit of one-more-move. Get comfortable with your own capabilities. Natural adaptation and habituation should hopefully allow you to achieve your goals.
And not meaning to be offensive, but from your feats of strength/foot on campussing (sounds like bloody good ancap to me!), it sounds like you need to learn how to move efficiently - doesn't necessarily mean overt dropknee/kneebar trickery.
Quote from: moose on January 28, 2015, 06:00:55 pm at the grades the OP mentions, it feels like overkill to me, I can't help but feel a good volume of bouldering, at as hard a grade as mojo allows could suffice Structured training isn't necessary at this stage.
personally I'd just get stuck in to routes you fancyAnd have fun
I'm never going to come back being a good climber
Accept you'll over and underperform at times.
Also, ignore indoor grades.
Quote from: nai on January 28, 2015, 01:50:18 pmNot really what you're asking but I find more gains from Foot-on-Campussing if I pause on each hold for 4s, on no climb anywhere are you going to make 25 hand moves in 30s, slowing down feels more relevant, it's harder but much more effective.I do similar as 25 moves in 30s is just so unrealistic. instead of pausing though, I make myself do two foot movements for every hand movement. No time counting, but it seems much more realistic.
Not really what you're asking but I find more gains from Foot-on-Campussing if I pause on each hold for 4s, on no climb anywhere are you going to make 25 hand moves in 30s, slowing down feels more relevant, it's harder but much more effective.
Quote from: Sasquatch on January 28, 2015, 05:29:06 pmQuote from: nai on January 28, 2015, 01:50:18 pmNot really what you're asking but I find more gains from Foot-on-Campussing if I pause on each hold for 4s, on no climb anywhere are you going to make 25 hand moves in 30s, slowing down feels more relevant, it's harder but much more effective.I do similar as 25 moves in 30s is just so unrealistic. instead of pausing though, I make myself do two foot movements for every hand movement. No time counting, but it seems much more realistic. Just wanna clarify something here - when you say you pause on each hold for 4 sec, is that with the both hands on a rail whilst you move your feet? I had a play last night for a while on the bigger campus rail, one minute on and one minute off and trying to hover one hand where it needs to go for a few seconds before placing it and then hovering the other one. Blew me apart to be honest after the evening before and felt a lot harder than holding on with both and moving the feet twice. Honestly, if you two are moving your feet and holding on one handed...
Boredom
BREATH! I had no idea that I held my breath all the time. No oxygen, no go. Literally.
https://www.trainingbeta.com/justen-sjong-breathing/Apologies if you have already seen this.