Fast forward 100 years and I bet this will be less of a puzzle. 
I hope not for the the future's sake. One of the reasons climbing holds my attention is the puzzle. The activity is so diverse and so intricate that there is no one size fits all solution for everything.
Fixed my own quote. In bold above.
I think thats part of the beauty of all the training info out there. Short of getting a pro coach who monitors EVERYTHING it all only points you in the right direction. How you plan your training, rest, prioritize activities etc all pretty much has to be decided on the fly based on how your body responds to training. Having all the pieces doesn't help put them all together
