[csl]

January Goals

V8 indoors or 1-4-7 on the campus board.
3 days out 1/3
Lose 2kg - going well so far. Back down to 74kg.

Mon - rest
Tue
Arch. AM
Campus Board. Attempts at 1-4-7. Mostly 1-4-6.5ing it. Then 3x 1-4-6 + 3x 1-3-6.
Arch PM
Planned doubles, but circuit board was stripped. Did most of Yellow V2-4 Circuit.
Wed
Thu
Westway.
4x4's. Routes up to 7a+.
Fri
Sat
AM
Parkrun - first one of these for a while, long way off the old pace,  20.46
PM
Arch.
Circuit Board, all routes up to 7a onsight. Few goes at the 7b+, mostly easy but one annoying difficult crux.
Then did a load of ungraded problems on the comp wall, nice sociable session.
Sun - rest

Good week. Next week - Fingerboard x 2, Campus x 1 and 4x4's.

[tomtom]

Thanks for starting CSL...

M>Su
Basic physio exercises, gentle stretching, icing the back three times a day. Continuing to improve - little/no pain at night now.

I've also started on some gentle beastmakering: Thurs > Sun warming up with 3 sets of 5 20 second hangs on the big jugs (feels nice for my back) then working my back three on the big slots. Only just managing one set of 3 x ( 6 x 7on 3off)... but feeling the training pain of working those muscles again - excellent.

[mindfull]

Wish you well recovering tomtom!

January goal:
- Emphasis on Strength/power training-powerlifting (experiment)
February-March goal:
- Endurance running, trying to maintain strength/power
April-September goal:
- Bouldering/Sport climbing preparing for "God Shave the Queen (f8a)" combined with some half marathons/one full marathon
October:
- "God Shave the Queen"

All week:
- Tai Chi
- Flexibility and balance

MON:
- Aero: 100 bodyweight squat
TUE:
- Power: Pullups/Chinups/Pullups(neutral) 21 reps in 6 short sets
WED:
- Full body strength (5setsx5reps): Squat (75%1RM)/Standing calf raise (50%1RM)/Bent Over Row (90%1RM)/Ab Rolls/Upright Row (90%1RM)/Bench Press (90%1RM)
THU:
- AeroPow? 2x15 min traverse (f6-7a moves)
- Power: Pullups/Chinups/Pullups(neutral) 16 reps in 4 short sets
FRI:
- Hypertrophy (8setsx8reps): Bench Press (75%1RM)
SAT:
- Full body strength (3setsx8reps): Bent Over Row (75%1RM)/Weighted pushups (+20kg)/Pistol Squat/Triceps extensions (75%1RM)/Biceps curls (85%1RM)/Upright Row (75%1RM)/Ab Rolls
SUN:
- Rest day/some light work: (5x5 50%1RM): Weighted pushups/Upright rows/Bent Over Rows

[Muenchener]

STG: (January) Indoor 7a redpoint.
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine.
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Arco: Regina del Lago. Redpointed my second 7a  . Gelateria closed on Mondays 

T: Arco: Noriglio. Short easyish day before driving home: half a dozen routes in the 6a/b range
W: Rest day. A few sets of pressups - my right elbow was complaining in Arco, haven't done six days on for a long time - but not enough to qualify for Sharkathon.
T:   ditto
F: Mobiity, core, shoulders
S:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt: rather desultory bouldering with M jnr. Too crowded, elbows still not feeling good.

Glad to hear the back is improving TomTom

[mindfull]

Edit:

SUN:
Too much energy left for a rest day so did 4x20 explosive bodyweight pushups extra. 

[webbo]

Mon. First session on board since being rebuilt in new venue. Spirit level says it's exactly 40 degrees as it was supposed to be before. But either 3 weeks with only one climbing session means I've lost loads of power or it's steeper.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Board better session, now feels slightly less steep.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board easy mirror session. Some things feel ok others desperate.
Sun. Could face biking in the wind. Turbo 1 hour.

[tomtom]

Thanks for the recovery wishes everyone - support is much appreciated...

[kelvin]

Nice work Muench! Another 7a 

Mon - Boulder warmup, then lock off training. Managed a PB of three sets and the last set was 7 (really happy with this). Boulder. Short session as was knackered.
Tue - Routes. 11th day in a row climbing, so just did easy stuff in the 5s. Finished with a 5+ x 4 going very slowly face on.
Wed - After 11 days of climbing... REST DAY! Fingers sore, knee sore. I ache when I get up, end up coming home from work at 11am and going straight to bed - can't shift this virus properly at all.
Thu - Yoga class.
Fri - Found a Fiat Ducato on the east coast - SWB, should be fine for the trip to Spain 
Sat - Bouldering at the Cuttings. Didn't cut my finger but tore a great ruddy flapper. Oops. Usual me of new place and new people equals crap climbing but enjoyed the sunshine and tried hard.
Sun - Routes at the Cuttings. Got up a couple of very easy things, didn't get up a 6a due to pidgeons and flayed badly on Consomme (?) coz whilst my jamming has got better, my laybacking is awful. WTF was I thinking heading up a crack climb that had birds flying in and out of the crack when I have a phobia about the damn things? I'm nearly 50 and trying to sort it head on hasn't worked before - why would it when I'm hanging by my fingertips above a bolt?! Sometimes I can be a right knob.

[Sasquatch]

So I've been off for a bit as it was my normal winter break, with no concerted training effort.

STG - Stick W Training plan
MTG - 1-5-8 on campus board, Clean up a few old sport projects
LTG - To Bolt or Not to Be, bolt 3-4 new 8a-8c local sport routes

ARC training Week
M- 2x25minutes on wall steady state, 1.5 Hr Yoga
T-1 hr Yoga
W-2x30 min Steady state - up 5.11's, Down 5.10's
TH-1 hr Yoga
F-2 x 35 min Steady State - 1st set Up 5.11's Down 5.10's, 2nd set up 5.12 down 5.10, 1 hr Yoga
S-1.5 hr skate ski
S-3x25 min steady state - 1st set up 5.11 or 5.12 down 5.10, 2nd set up and down 5.11, 3rd set up 5.12 down 5.11

Really exhausting week, but saw good progression.  1 more intense week of ARC, then into FB training. 

[the_dom]

STG: More climbing, finger and other injury rehab, complete Sharkathon, surf more*. Weight to 87kgs.

MTG: 7Bs, at least one trip to Font, Magic Wood or somewhere interesting in Euroland. Surf more*. Injury free. Weight to 85kgs.

LTG: 8A again. Surf more. Weight at 85kgs consistently.

Mon: Two surfs in fantastic albeit slightly crowded waves and a 40 min trail run. My last day of holidays and a really fun day.

Tues: Hangboard (easy repeaters - trying to slowly build up a base), pushups, plyo pushups, bodyweight squats and tuck jumps. Followed up by rehab exercises for my dodgy hamstring. Good, solid training.

Wed: Weights - dumbbell military presses, dumbbell flies, bicep curls, bent over rows, dumbbell clean and press, turkish getups. Heavy session.

Thurs: Hangboard - easy repeaters again. Pretty exhausted from the previous two days.

Fri: 40 min trail run.

Sat: Bouldering - fun day out at in Cape Town's RMNP (not really, but it's a scree slope 40 mins steep uphill walk from the car). Did some easier problems and then repeated a brilliant 6C/7Aish problem I put up a few years ago.

Sun: Bouldering - another fun day out. Did some 6Cs and a 7A and worked some harder problems. Skin was torched by the end of it, but it felt great to be out bouldering again.

[JackAus]

STG: Maybe more V7s, maybe DWS project. Abit all up in the air, depends on where I am...
MTG: Sushi Train V8.
LTG: V11.

M: Worked all night taking down a massive xmas tree in the city.
T: Wasted from last night. Did a bunch of core stuff & push ups at home in the arvo.
W: Indoors. New panel of problems. Did everything bar the hardest 2 (V7/8). Campus board to wind down. Finally got 1-5 both hands again.
T: Indoors for half hour with a mate, then I headed out to Lindfield for the evening. Maybe 20 problems up to V4 inc a few flashes and a big dyno 2nd go. Went alot quicker than expected. Worked some harder things but skin was severely limiting factor. Been very hot here of late. Couple of drinks after, no food, puked everywhere in the garden...
F: Late for work... Hungover all day. Did a few push ups in the evening for Sharkathon.
S: 37degrees, 95% humidity. Decided to go to a crag call the Fear Factory. Lots of aretes, slabs, highballs and solid grades. Very similar climbing to grit. Did a bunch of stuff up to V5. Felt horrible, literally drenched in sweat. Quite possibly the worst conditions I'd every climbed in. Still fun crag though.
S: Big sleep in. Not had one in ages. Light core stuff and press ups/offsets in arvo.

[Muenchener]

Nice work Muench! Another 7a 
WTF was I thinking heading up a crack climb that had birds flying in and out of the crack when I have a phobia about the damn things?

Vicious little dinosaur bastards eh?

Phobias can be weird things. I used to climb with a guy who had been to the Himalayas a couple of times (proper climbing expeditions, not trekking or guided nonsense) and was big into caving. In his day job he was a quantity surveyor, which as he described it to me meant telling large gangs of rough blokes the hole wasn't deep enough and they should go and dig some more. Basic physical courage not open to question, in other words. We once failed to make it to our chosen crag in Pembroke because I was unable to coax him through a field with a herd of cows.

[fried]

Nice work on the 7a Munch.

M- Very misty, but went out to the forest to have a wander around Apremont, the car park was soaked. Although some rock was dry, the top out were dripping, and I'd left my mat in the car, had a good walk and a look at some of the circuits.

T- Indoor - 2h plus shoulder/back stuff
W- Power walk 40mins completely overdressed.
T - Indoor - good session, didn't do anything, but work a lot of steep problems, shoulders feeling O.K (note: don't forget the shoulder exercises)
F- 30 min BM session.
S- 40 minute powerwalk, cleaned the flat, did some hangs. Drunk too much/ate too much
S- Feeling tired, short wall session, fingers sore. Walked in Paris 1h30 to Nation.

Another week of Sharkathon done, no alcohol for 3 days. No beer at all. weight down to 76.4kg, still need to get rid of a kilo at least.

[T_B]

86.1Kg

M - School - lunch. Bench pressing (65Kg once, 60Kg twice). Offset pull ups (x 6 on right, x 5 on left - 4 sets). Some russian twists and kettle bell stuff)
T -
W - School lunch - did new 57-move purple problem in 3 sections (so kind of AnCap…). Middle fingers a bit achy.
T - School P.M. working new purple circuit, nearly 2 sections. 75 russian twists with 12Kg, 5 x bench presses (55Kg, 3 reps)
F -
S -
S - Stoney Minus 10. Met Dave P. Had hoped to get on the grit, but morning slot and looking damp. Maybe first time at Minus 10 for 9 years? Took a while to get into the subtleties, but did Zippy's Sidepull, 7B+ and Sean's Problem, 7B+. Nice to be out.

Fingers definitely feeling better having eased off board bouldering. Keen to keep working on 57 move 7c+ and doing more basic strength stuff. Still troughing, hence weight not dropping post Christmas. Might do some AeroCap this week too.

[ummagumma]

STG - Train 4 times / per wk
MTG - Climb new project

M - 6km run
T - Beastmaker session. strength training.
W - 8km run
T - Indoor Bouldering session focusing on power.
F - Rest
S - O/D Bouldering Session
S - Bike Ride and Short O/D Bouldering Session. Took it easy enough.

Good Week. Weighing in at 75kg.

[jstrongman]

This is my first post to the power club, and my first training after 3 months of gluttony and over working.

wt 96.2Kg 

STG - Lose some weight, build a new base
MTG - Repeat Evening Song and Crack pot
LTG - Psyhcokiller & Strongbow. Finish two long term boulder projects & get to 85kg

Find out how bad it really is week
M- Weigh in 96.2kg 16.1% fat  7kg over my normal weight and 11 kg over the target
T- Really easy BM session - Absolutely terrible failed on pretty much every grip with 5 on 5 hangs
W- Went to check out new wall - Really really good and finally something on 10 mins from home
TH-Rest - totally over did it at the wall, serious pain in forearms
F- Rest - Forearms still very sore ice and ibuprofen
S- Rest - Forearms still sore but better than yesterday, stretching,  ice and ibuprofen
S- Easy 2hr wall session, working and setting new problems - psyched to be back climbing again with a wall that so close to home - Forearms back to normal 

Very scary start to the week, cannot believe how far I have slipped and then got worried I had blown the come back on the first trip to the wall!!

[nik at work]

STG - Trad projects and repeats
MTG - 8c (E8 new route, 8a new route and/or flash, 8A)
LTG - 9a

M - The 400 before work. 30 min BM session while cooking tea, +20kg 20 second hangs.
T - The 400 before work.
W - The 400 before work. 30 min BM session while cooking tea, +20kg 20 second hangs.
T - The 400 before work.
F - The 400 before work. Evening at the wall, did the boulder league (flashed all problems but one, got it second go) then did some routes.
S - The 400 and a couple of freezing hours trying to work trad projects, brrrrrr...
S - The 400.

Weighed myself for the first time since Christmas and am back down to usual-ish 57/8kg from a sloth induced 60kg over festive period. Glad to be back doing stuff and super syked to get crushing this year. Bring on the power...

[Dolly]

M Pilates
T Worked late then did a kettlebell sess at home
W kin beastmaker innit
T Shed with Lagers and Norton. Followed by no beer 
F a few easy routes top roping at the gym
S Knackered and slept loads. Core at the gym early evening
S Went to Harthill quarry as it was dry and sheltered according to connies thread. Various mates had various excuses as to why they couldnt make it.  Kinell what a dump. I think I might go there again when I've done all the other problems in The Peak. Was about to sack it off and go home then saw a team at Cliff Top. It was very windy but just on the right side of being too windy to bother. Did Boing Boy which I was pleased about as it was a move off a right hand pinch (moves which are a lot harder since I cut half of my thumb off) Did some more stuff but it was harder when the other team left without anyone to stand on the mats to keep them from blowing away.

[gme]

Well here goes on my first post. Thought I would join this to shame me into keeping up with the training. Never really made real goals for a long time.
Got a plan and facilities to do it. Kids a bit older so I can have some time back at weekends and am a big enough pain in the arse at home that Helen can't wait for me to go out.
STG- (3-6months) 7C outside and 7B at school
MTG- (6-12 months) 8a
LTG- ( 8A and 8b again).

Weight 82kg ( target 75)

Mon - rest (my plan is sat to fri so I had climbed all weekend) 35 mins vinyasa yoga.
Tuesday - lunch CWP style dead hangs at works. PM bouldering at works finished with light core and bar work.
Wed- PM works aero cap red and green circuit up and down each problem no rest. 75 ish problems( 750+ moves) in 45mins.
Thursday - bouldering at works. Not a great session as busy and long day at work.
Fri - rest
sat - wall in  Alnwick. 20 probs warm up plus 12 problems x2 on moon board 6b+-7a. CWP style dead hang session PM.
sun - alnwick. Aero cap. 4x 10 on 10 off. Failed to do last set due to skin. Wimp but it was fucking purgatory. 35 mins vinyasa yoga.

Good week as I managed to do nearly all planned. Missed a conditioning session on Thursday. Bouldered at the works as didn't have transport to the school. I love the works but really don't think its good for training other than the motherboard and I am not strong enough for that at minute.
transport sorted this week so back to the basic pulling of the school boards.

[tomtom]

Blimey GME that's a pretty full on training week! (Well by my shonky standards at least!)

[Schnell]

STG: fix fingers (getting there) and keep working on shoulder stability

M. decent indoor training session and shoulders, weighted reverse flies etc
T. rest, shoulder stability
W. more shoulders and brief FB session
T. decent indoor session inc. bit of fingerboarding, more shoulders
F. dragged myself to the wall with my girlfriend because she had a rare burst of enthusiasm, feeling tired so did some easy problems
S. uncharacteristically lazy day
S. no car this weekend so went indoors again, did some training on the circuit board realising how miserable my stamina is

reasonable if uneventful week. I heard the wall is installing a pulley system with the FB, which I'm pathetically excited about. Hopefully will get out for some mileage this weekend and in the meantime the finger continues to improve which is no.1 priority.

[nai]

Seems a good time to rejoin as I'm starting from scratch again and there seems to be a decent level of psyche and input.

Background: back in November I got very close to climbing my 8a goal but put my back out before I managed to do it.  After a couple of weeks rest & rehab I started going to the mini-works three times per week and traversing the vertical walls (ship's prow) for 20 minutes at a time, three sets per session, moving onto the steeper wall (20 degrees or so) as I improved and doing 2-3 sets of 15 minutes after a 20 minute warm up. Did this for four weeks.

Either side of Christmas I started doing some boulder problems, struggled on the 5s circuit to start with but after a few sessions things started to improve.  Also tried deadhanging and climbing on my board at this point but was so poor that I decided it pointless starting a strength phase, so I've been doing an Advanced Base to get to a point that strength work will actually be effective. I'll do that rest of this week and am then off skiing for a week and will start strength thereafter.

Unfortunately I threw myself completely into the excesses of the season this year and went from a low of 55.2Kg at the start of November to an all-time high of 66.2kg on Jan 2nd. Somewhere around 58-60 is normal so aiming to get there, currently hovering around 61kg.

STG - finish Hot Fun Closing in Spring.
MTG - Raindogs in Autumn
LTG - probably looking at next winter for Brad Pit now

I'll hopefully do some trad (several E4 goals) at some point but it's pretty much all about redpointing this year

Since New Year:

Fri 2nd - mini-works - most yellows, half the blacks and a few whites, shut down by Murples
S 3rd - board - repeated my 10 problem warmup circuit five times with 10 minutes between sets
S 4th
M 5th - mini-works (there before Ron, how's that for commitment) 20 minute traversing, 90 mins bouldering, 15 minutes steep traversing
T- weights (pullups, pressups, tri ext, bicep curl, sh press, lateral raises, had to quit lock-off-laps as my back complained)
W - 30 minutes Turkish Get Ups, back didn't like it so sacked it early
Th - board - 3 repeats of warm up circuit
       beast - 7 sets of 4 rep Repeaters, managed to hold low slots first time since October but couldn't complete a set
       weights - Frenchies rather than pullups otherwise as Tue
F - hour at Minus Ten, rusty but quite pleased with performance.
S - thorough board warm up then spanked by legends (Ben, Basher, Mark Leach) at the Tor followed by a not bad -10 session, repeated a 6C+ which is my hardest problem there.
S - board warm up then Minus Ten again - did the low traverse and a couple of 6B/+ up problems.

[shark]

S Went to Harthill quarry as it was dry and sheltered according to connies thread. Various mates had various excuses as to why they couldnt make it.   

1. Weather looked suspect
2. A google suggested limited and uninspiring probs
3. You were heading out late
4. You wanted to meet there

Kinell what a dump.

Sounds like I was right. As always.

Mind you, time spent in reconnaissance is rarely wasted - especially when others are doing the reconnoitering

[shark]

11.8 / 9

M. Noon. Systems board. OK on edges but found I was tired quickly - tried AnCap circuit but struggled then failed doing the 20/10 aerocap circuit
T. Eve. Foundry with Tom. 10 easy routes in the Furnace (active rest)
W.Eve. School Had a play on campus rungs. Rubbish. Managed to do Chalk and Blow 6A on 50 deg board
T. Eve. Fingerboard. Good sesssion - marked improvement
F. Eve. Knackered but dragged myself to do a fingerboard and short sess on by board. Missed having a glass or four of wine
S. Eve. Foundry with Tom. Warm up on auto belay routes. Bouldered on Wave. Auto belay to finish
S. PM. Finally dragged myself out. Tor. Dry but windy. Only kids there who didnt know any better. Did all the moves on Perverse Reverse. With tactical retreats to car to warm up and do Sudoku. Definitely the strongest Ive felt on it despite weighing heavy. 

Short sessions are getting me through the Sharkathon. All a bit unstructured but fingers are getting stronger. Left shoulder seems well on the way to mending - can hang one-handed on a jug now without too much discomfort. Weight not coming off yet. Probably should be doing more AeroCap but will be doing plenty of endurance the week after in Chuliila 

[cheque]

M- Core. Did that "Ab ripper X" thing someone linked to. Hard to concentrate on the numerous situp variations while laughing at the presenter  . They all felt pretty steady up to the 15th rep, when they became pretty hard.

T- More core.

W- Pullups, pressups, clean-and-press. Increased volume again.

T- Notts Depot. New comp problems. Flashed the first 23 (230 points- last months total was 228  ), next three feel like they'll go when I'm fresh.

F- Feeling tired and paranoid about catching my girlfriend's hideous virus so didn't train apart from 30-minute daily stretching regime.

S- DIY business.

S- Filming at Black Rocks. Gear-lugging.

I lost 2.8lbs in a week of abstinence from sugar, which puts me closer to normal weight. More focused on my film than climbing at the moment so just trying to keep ticking over on training. Daily stretching routine is going well and I'm defnitely seeing flexibility gains.

[csl]

@cheque 'I hate it, but i love it' - at least the laughing is just more core exercise!

[french erick]

STG- get right hand back to normal; onsight another VIII
MTG- get back to a proper training routine to be fit for next spring and a Utah trip in October (for which I now need to find a new partner).
LTG- astroman/ romantic warrior in US- Onsight E5 on 5 different rock types

mon usual commute
tues a small but fun session at home
wed not at wall due to parents evening but managed to organise a 30 min fitness session of 10 reps repeaters before first parent arrived.
Thurs a fun crack session at home
Then we lost all electricity (central heating et al) for 3 days so exercise was to keep family warm in kitchen where we have a small wood stove. Outside was horrendous. Drink tea, some tea and more tea.

Finding it difficult to imagine maintaining training with big winter days out. This weekend will be 2 epic adventures which will require at least 3 days to recover from (hopefully some pretty remote VIIs )